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Just an observation, the first one looks to be better quality since the windings look like they have a protective blue coating. The second one is just enameled mag wire.
 

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Junior Grue
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If he's selling the bike either will do and hope it lasts until the papers are signed.

As a rule of thumb you get what you pay for and I'd not trust either of those to get me out the driveway.:eek:
 

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The second stator look exactly like the RM Stator that I bought off Ebay. After googling RMStator and reading many horror stories about their product I put it on the shelf and ordered a Rick's.

Brian
 

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Is it worth installing a poorboy setup, it will cost a bit more, but should enhance the sale price to re-coup the difference.
 

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Is it worth installing a poorboy setup, it will cost a bit more, but should enhance the sale price to re-coup the difference.
If I had it to do over again I would seriously consider the poor boy. As far as cost goes; I have now spent $132 for the Rick's stator shipped, $90 for the RM Stator that I will not use plus I still need to get a new Regulator/Rectifier for...say...$130. Also I bought a complete engine gaskets set for $130. So that is a total of $350-$400.

The poor boy would be a lot less and I wouldn't have had to pull the engine and it would probably be more reliable or at least easier and cheaper to fix.

Brian
 

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Look carefully at the first stator and you'll see a phillip head screw for harness stay. you'll need to grind out the stator housing for clearance before installing or stator will sit crooked and can rub stator basket.

The second stator looks like cheap junk that won't last.

Don't buy either one! And don't buy ElectroSport stator or reg/rect either.

Buy Honda or maybe Rick's. This is one item you don't want to put cost over quality!
 

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What he said. (rboyle).
 

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Don't buy the second one, any of them with that aluminium sealing bung and o-ring leak oil out through where the wires come through the bung, because the sealant can't take the heat. A lot of owners in the UK had problems with these after buying them cheap on Amazon.
The first stator doesn't actually show the bung, if it's like the second stator I would steer clear of it also.
 

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If it's me that's pulling the engine and engine rear cover of my GL1200 to change out an alternator stator (and I did it) ..... I'm only going to use a stator from Honda herself. Honda long long ago addressed the stator insulation breaking down due to heat and even put a "lifetime warranty" on each and every one sold or installed and included labor (if Honda did the install) in a potentially very expensive effort to maintain trust in the product.

Even today, there are 1200s still running on the original. I don't believe that GL-1000s and 1100s are any "better", rather they just had fewer windings on their stator and thus put out less current / heat there.

I did swap mine out at 37K miles in 1997 and now at 80K, she's still performing perfect.

My '85's original wiring had already been spliced in front of the battery by PO and so I rewired three yellow wires with new 12 gage yellow wire and installed a new plug kit from Honda and I gently dissasembled each of the total 6 connectors (3 male, 3 female) in that plug connection enough to solder where the 12 ga wire was crimped by the connector to eliminate a source of resistance heat in the plug. I did splice around the upper connector at the reg/rectifier using crimp tubes and solder and heat shrink.

I have the stuff to do a PoorBoy Conversion but have put it off as this lifetime wearrantied Honda stator is still fine .... but this thread is about which stator to use.

:waving:
 

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I installed a Rick's Stator around 10 years ago. I thought about less expensive ones, but since I was doing the engine removal and reinstall work, I did not want to do it over because I could save a few dollars in comparison to the hours (I can't remember how many as I did it on an non interference basis with the rest of life) and weeks it took to actually replace the bad one.
 
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