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Stator replacement

Thanks to Steve's video's and instructions I was able to pull the engine today. Super helpful, thanks!

Only challenge I've found is that I can't pull the rear case off when replacing the stator, it clunks against something in/on the output shaft area? Anybody know what's happening, and how I can get around it? :)

1987 Goldwing Aspencade
 

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Thank you for the Welcome Dennis!

I love this site! VMSGuy was spot on.......I choose option one first, because it was least destructive (gasket survived as well). Remove the side cover located beneath the fuel pump and on the shaft there are 2 screws (with retainers) in the shaft. Stuff a rag into the open engine/gearbox forward of the area, then super duper carefully remove the screws and retainers such that they don't fall in! After that the cover slides right off! And please note that this is on a 1987 1200 Aspencade. .....now I wait for the Stator and Gaskets to arrive....... :)

Thanks for your tremendous help fellas!
 

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OK, you guys are my favorite, thanks for the advice! :)

One lingering question is whether or not I should solder the wires versus using a replacement connector, as it seems it's why the stator failed (burnt prong on connector)? If I keep this thing sealed with electro-grease will it fail again? Or clip the connector and solder it? Or????? We bought this bike on Saturday (expecting a failed stator), tested, then had the engine out on Sunday, and hope to have it running again next Saturday. 50K on the engine, new tires, new AGM battery, looks nice, tranny's solid, suspension's solid, can't wait to run it again. This thing drives quite a bit nicer than my old CBX!
 

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PS....what's a reasonable timeframe to pull and replace a stator? I'm mechanically strong (mechanical designer/now IS geek), have the tools, and the desire. :)
 

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Hi All,
Since I had to replace the stator connector anyways, I went ahead and soldered the connections in hopes it would remove any opportunity for this to happen again (I had a bad connector). To prevent this from happening to you; use de-electric grease on the stator connector annually (you've been warned)!!!

This was a big project, though if I had to do it again I would now move much faster knowing the process. A few things I took away;
1. when pulling the engine free of the UJ, be sure to slide the UJ back (there's a bunch of room gained by this)
2. Definitely align the cams and pull the right hand pully, and also the pickups on the crank, such that they stay with the frame.
3. Not quite sure where the 7 wire lead's connector is that goes to the bottom of the engine, so I ended up cutting it and then resoldering it. This did not make me happy, though I got over it.
4. You'll most definitely want to order a new stator, rear cover seal, clutch seal, and maybe o-ring seals (4) for the carbs and for the water pump and thermostat. You may not need the o-rings, but better safe than waiting for them on a parts order.
5. When screws are pulled to removed a cover, fairing piece, etc., stick them back in the hole they came from, or place them in little piles of parts so all stays together. Doing this I lost no screws or parts.
6. Getting the engine back in is a pain in the rear; would love to know the magic trick!

Doing the stator replacement was a lot of work, but in the end we saved a ton of money and I got to know our new/used bike better then I would have otherwise. We bought the bike cheap because of this issue, then did the work ourselves, thereby giving us a reliable new toy. :) It now runs great!

Thanks VMSGuy for your help, and Steve for the great videos and instructions.
David
 

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I missed Dennis' and VMSGuys posts before I last posted. I concur with both comments.

Getting the UJ out of the way absolutely must save a ton of time, especially if you don't need to remove the front covers or fight to get the UJ plugged in whilst attempting to land the engine.

I do need to get the book, does anyone have a favorite? Clymers? Would be interested in learning about the Honda adjustment.... I'm also going to dig in to find the Rectifier connector to grease it up.

Thanks for the help and ideas fellas! :)
 
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