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I must confess to never soldering my stator wires to bypass the connector. Will and should the bike start after i cut out the connector ( just to move it in and out of the shop ), i want to take the connector with me to ensure i get the correct ga. wire,since i don't think there is enough slack in the wire to rejion them once the block is cut out.

Thanks Jim

P.S. The block looked pretty good, didn"t see much sign of overheating or burning.
 

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just solder in more wire length. I realised I had a problem by feeling along the length of the wire.
If it's been overheating the insulation will have become hard and inflexible compared to the good wires
 

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I did mine on my LTD mine got so hot before I cut the wires the glue on the tape was melting.But came to find out my rectifier was toast instead of the stator.Make sure you use heat shrink and seperate them don't tie them together even after you solder them these wires get warm but not as warm if you tie them together.Honda cut corners in this area as far as wires and I wish they had move the rectifier in one of those vents or made a vent just for it to help keep it cooler because it gets very hot and it doesn't get much air to it.
 

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Since the wires are already disconnected, there is no problem with starting the bike and moving it. Make sure the wires from the stator are insulated from each other and a ground source.

The one thing you DON'T want to do is disconnect or reconnectthe stator/regulator while the engine is running. Heavy voltage surges damage electronic components.
 

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It is a good idea to run three new wires from the stator directly to the volt reg thus eliminating two potential problem spots , those being the white plug you speak of and where the stator wires pass through the large plug adjacent to the voltage reg. As already mentioned make good solder joints and use heat shrink.
 

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Went out and got some 12Ga wire so i guess i'll be doing some soldering tomorrow,also picked up a weatherproof auto fuse holder to bypass the dogbone fuse. Hope my solder gun is up to it, if not will pick up one of those mini butane soldering torch.

Thanks for all the input ! Jim
 

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Howdy Everyone,
I'm having a problem with my 1984 GL1200A The rectifier seems to be getting real hot, So hot that you can't keep your hand on it very long, and the wires from the stator near the plug or connector that some are mentioning here are getting real warm. I don't see any sigh of anything burnt as of yet. I may have caught the problem before that happend. If it is the rectifier that needs to be replaced, can someone tell me where I can buy another one ? I have seen them on ebay but I fear I may just be buying something that's no good. Any suggestions?:stumped:
 

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Goodolboy1 wrote:
Howdy Everyone,
I'm having a problem with my 1984 GL1200A The rectifier seems to be getting real hot, So hot that you can't keep your hand on it very long, and the wires from the stator near the plug or connector that some are mentioning here are getting real warm. I don't see any sigh of anything burnt as of yet. I may have caught the problem before that happend. If it is the rectifier that needs to be replaced, can someone tell me where I can buy another one ? I have seen them on ebay but I fear I may just be buying something that's no good. Any suggestions?:stumped:
R/R getting hot and wires warm sounds perfectly normal to me.

Check or replace connections and if it's charging correctly just ride it.
 

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Thanks Newday777,
I went to the site and found the Shendengen. Not a bad price and am thinking that I just may go with it because I don't know if the one I now have has ever been replaced. I have heard that if the rectifier goes bad, it'll cause your stator to go bad. Do you know if there is any truth to that?. :baffling:
 

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Howdy Ken Bergen,
Thanks for the input here. I truly appreciate it. As I told Newday777, I'm gonna go with the new rectifier because I'm not sure if the I now have has ever been replaced. I will get rid of the connector and solder in new connections. It sure seem that that's the thing to do. So, again I do thank ya for the input.
 

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Goodolboy1 wrote:
Howdy Ken Bergen,
Thanks for the input here. I truly appreciate it. As I told Newday777, I'm gonna go with the new rectifier because I'm not sure if the I now have has ever been replaced. I will get rid of the connector and solder in new connections. It sure seem that that's the thing to do. So, again I do thank ya for the input.
As preventative maintenance that seems a bit extreme to me. After all there are thousands of other parts on your bike that are 27 years old.:?
 

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As I understand it the rectifier is supposed to get hot as it acts as a heat sink. Mine gets hot too....but again, that's normal as I understand it.
I'm not the brightest bulb in the box when it comes to electricity and electronics.
 

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Those wires are like the good old oil controversy. Liker said the rectifier is supposed to get hot & if you see signs of the wires overheating then that is the time to solder those 3 yellows. My connecter still looks much like it came from the factory & the wires don't get hot so I see no reason to waste time cutting & soldering them when I will be installing an ext alt soon & @ that time with utilize that connector to disconnect the stator from the circuit. Preventive maintenance is compulsory but unneccesary maintanence is a waste of riding time.:waving::waving::waving:
 

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Oh yeah, a perfectly good stock voltage regulator / rectifier will get more than just uncomfortably hot in operation. I believe you could cook a chicken leg wrapped in foil and laid on it while you ride. No need to replace it just based on age.
 

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In most cases I would only add the old saying,"If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I've recently been through a lot with my bike. You're welcome to read the thread at my webpage below. With the help of Roscoepc, the stator wires were replaced from the connector all the way to the regulator/rectifier. Connectors on both ends were removed, wires soldered and heat shrink applied to the new connections.

In my opinion, make sure you are using a Shindengen regulator/rectifier. They will get pretty warm, which is normal. I would also recommend using at least 12ga. wire and 10ga. is even better.

I would also recommend looking carefully at your battery cables. Not only the connections, but the wires themselves. Twenty seven years of current flow and excessive heat can damage the stock steel mesh cables. My bad positive cable was creating a choke point which increased heat, decayed the cable and eventually took out 2 regulator/rectifiers before I found the problem.



 

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Hey Jim,
Just wondering how things are going? Have you completed your solder job?

One other short note: Yes r/r's will get hot. That is normal. I am relatively new to Gold Wing ownership and to this forum, but I've never heard of a regulator/rectifier taking out a stator. I would suspect if anything, it would be the other way around.
 

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Sure - Why not cook your sandwich on the way to the next stop? Saw that on Thats Incredible- Early 80's TV. That Toolbox becomes an Oven.
 
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