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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried to resurrect a thread from 2006. I hope this gets some viewers.

I own a 1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi. Tail lights do not work. TAILLIGHT on the dash is constant on. #3 fuse (15A) blows as soon as the key goes on. If I 1) remove the tail light sensor, 2) disconnect the back end connectors on top of the back fender (to the tail lights), and 3) remove the left and right front running lights (sides of the faring) it still blows.

Testing the brown wires in the tail light sensor, as described in other threads, reveals that no power continues on from the tail light sensor to either of the brown wires. Brake lights get power through this sensor and they work fine. Although at the moment I'm kicking myself for not looking to see if there is both upper (on trunk) and lower brake lights.

Thing is, trying to bypass the sensor by routing power from the bk/br wire (which has power constant on) to the brown wires while the sensor is removed just trips another fuse.

Questions:
Do I have 2 problems? Tail light sensor and a short?

Can I bypass the tail light sensor permanently and still keep the brake lights working? I think it's gonna be tough to find this part. Especially for a reasonable price.

My Clymer manual is tough to follow, but I do have that.
 

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A comment on resurrecting OLD threads trying to get help on your problem.

That is a no-no simply because your problem disappears in the woodwork because it is an "old thread" and we quit looking at it.

Always post your problems in a New Thread, that way we the readers will note that you have a 'Zero Count' in your thread and you are looking for help.

The old thread is pretty much useless other than referring to for similar symptoms. this is your bike, and your problem.

You have now made this thread "yours" and it will get help.
Not from me as I know nothing of your model bike, but I just wanted to answer your plaintive cry about the "previous attempt" did not get you any help.
 

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I tried to resurrect a thread from 2006. I hope this gets some viewers.

I own a 1986 GL1200 Aspencade SEi. Tail lights do not work. TAILLIGHT on the dash is constant on. #3 fuse (15A) blows as soon as the key goes on. If I 1) remove the tail light sensor, 2) disconnect the back end connectors on top of the back fender (to the tail lights), and 3) remove the left and right front running lights (sides of the faring) it still blows.

Testing the brown wires in the tail light sensor, as described in other threads, reveals that no power continues on from the tail light sensor to either of the brown wires. Brake lights get power through this sensor and they work fine. Although at the moment I'm kicking myself for not looking to see if there is both upper (on trunk) and lower brake lights.

Thing is, trying to bypass the sensor by routing power from the bk/br wire (which has power constant on) to the brown wires while the sensor is removed just trips another fuse.

This is a little confusing. You say with it all disconnected it still blows the fuse , but you then say you have power on the blk/brn wire and it blows the fuse when you connect it to the brown tail light wires.
Please clarify.


Questions:
Do I have 2 problems? Tail light sensor and a short?

You won't know if you have a problem with the sensor until you find and fix the short.


Can I bypass the tail light sensor permanently and still keep the brake lights working? I think it's gonna be tough to find this part. Especially for a reasonable price.

Yes you can bypass it.

My Clymer manual is tough to follow, but I do have that.
Clymer sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
@AZgl1500 Not all forums work that way. Thanks, good to know.

I'll try to clarify, but it does get confusing ... which may explain why I did not communicate well. Anyway, when the tail light fuse (#3) is out there is still power on the blk/brn wire at the tail light sensor. When I attempt a suggested bypass (connecting blk/brn to the brns) blows another fuse. Not #3 but some other one, I forget which.

I did not say this before (because it only became true after I worked on it a bit), but the radio will no longer turn off when the key is off. Neither will the trip computer LED lights. These problems do not seem to be related to the short or the sensor because the short and the sensor stuff did not change since I worked on it. Thought I'd mention it if it helps.

You said, "You won't know if you have a problem with the sensor until you find and fix the short. ", but if the sensor has power and it is not sending it on to the brn wires (tail light wires) doesn't that mean the sensor has an issue?
 

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OK, fuse #3 feeds a lot of things.
Cornering lights; position light switch (part of turn signal switch); radio illumination lights; side marker lights; parking lights; illumination for electronic travel computer, radio, air pressure display unit, and instrument panel; license plate lights; taillights

The blk/brn wire comes from the #4 fuse (is that the other one it blows?) it feeds the tail light sensor among other things but is not power for the tail lights. Anyway that indicates the short must be somewhere between the sensor and the rear lights.

You probably have a power feed back somewhere into the brn/wht circuit off #3 fuse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There were trailer lights after market, but all have been removed. Something tapped into the headlight power but was gone before I got it. I had to rewire the headlight back to specs to get the high beams to work but they should be normal now. A third thing is fog lights. But I have removed ground going to them. Fogs get direct power (tube fuse) from the battery and grounded to the frame.

Not for sure, but pretty sure fuse 4 is not the one that blows when I attempt the bypass. I recall it being 2 down maybe 3, so fuse 5 is my best guess. I am not by it right now to go try.

> Anyway that indicates the short must be somewhere between the sensor and the rear lights.
But if the sensor is pulled out and the back fender connections to the tail lights are disconnected and it still blows then how could the short be in the back?

The Clymer does not show me the same number of fuses that I have and it's the right year and model and SEi. What manual should I get?
 

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A third thing is fog lights. But I have removed ground going to them. Fogs get direct power (tube fuse) from the battery and grounded to the frame.
Then what switched them on and off?


> Anyway that indicates the short must be somewhere between the sensor and the rear lights.
But if the sensor is pulled out and the back fender connections to the tail lights are disconnected and it still blows then how could the short be in the back?
I may have misstated on that, one brown wire on the sensor goes to the lower rear lights, the other is from the fuse and goes to the trunk lights. If you power the wire from the fuse it also goes to all the other things that fuse powers so the short could be in any of those things or the wiring to them. Connect those brown wires to power one at a time to find which one has the short, could be both but I doubt it.

The Clymer does not show me the same number of fuses that I have and it's the right year and model and SEi. What manual should I get?[/QUOTE]
clymer sucks
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Fogs have a switch on the power line. Just wanted you to know it was not tapped in to anything.

OK verifying ... so the brown wires on the sensor go to
1) the trunk tail lights
2) the rear tail lights
neither of which work even when there is power getting to the sensor.

I did try to send power down the brown wires from the blk/brn one by one when the sensor was out. Again I'm not at the bike at the moment, can do again later, but one took out fuse 5 (I think) and the other did nothing. I tried so many things it's hard to recall but I believe that was when the connectors on the back fender to the tail lights were disconnected.
 

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As I mentioned before one of the brown wires goes to the trunk tail lights, th other goes to the lower tail lights plus all these things, Cornering lights; position light switch (part of turn signal switch); radio illumination lights; side marker lights; parking lights; illumination for electronic travel computer, radio, air pressure display unit, and instrument panel;
 

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first thing i'd do get get a copy of the 86 ETM and start with the SEI power dist circuit diagram and start pulling conectors until either unplugging them doesn't short out fuse #3 or try unplugging all the connectors you can and start plugging them back in until fuse blows,then investigate from there
i have used these type fuses for several years with great results in all the amp ranges,almost all my circuits use these fuses
http://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Amp-Low-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d05d11249

pm sent
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After a while away, I was able to come back to this today. The yellow/White wire coming out of the taillight sensor was tapped into. The wire tap went off to the front right and ended near that cornering light and did nothing. Took it all out and poof the taillights came back on.

Got excited but then after putting back together the cornering light, the taillights in the back, and the taillight sensor AND finally starting the bike - it blew the fuse again.

Arg. So I took apart the harness where the tap went in. I found that the black/brown (power) wire going into the taillight sensor also was bare but wrapped well. But both not touching anything. No matter what I could not get the short to go away again. Frustrating.

Anyway, I was wondering if there's a way to know which of the wires in the tail light sensor connector should have continuity with the others? Perhaps this would tell me which wire is the one with the short. Besides the brown wires what do the others do?
 

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Get a manual and re-read the advise already given. It is just impossible for us to lead you through every possible problem on the bike from a distance if you don't have something to go by.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
SORRY. The message was posted prior was not showing up so I tried again and now both are here...................


By the way, when it was still failing I did do the bypass of the TLS again. I went from the black to one of the browns and it blew fuse # 4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)

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SORRY. The message was posted prior was not showing up so I tried again and now both are here...................


By the way, when it was still failing I did do the bypass of the TLS again. I went from the black to one of the browns and it blew fuse # 4.
Honda wiring is generally very good about color coding circuits.
Brown is taillights.
Green/yellow is brakes.
Black wires are usually ignition "on" sources.
Green is almost always ground.
The only other wire color you have at the taillamp sensor must return to the warning lamp.
Jumping brown to brown blows a fuse, and jumping black to brown blows a different fuse? That would indicate a short in the taillamp circuit after the sensor. Possibly a socket or a bulb.
Never cross different color codes unless you are absolutely sure of the source and load. Especially on an electronically controlled engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Honda wiring is generally very good about color coding circuits.
Brown is taillights.
Green/yellow is brakes.
Black wires are usually ignition "on" sources.
Green is almost always ground.
The only other wire color you have at the taillamp sensor must return to the warning lamp.
Jumping brown to brown blows a fuse, and jumping black to brown blows a different fuse? That would indicate a short in the taillamp circuit after the sensor. Possibly a socket or a bulb.
Never cross different color codes unless you are absolutely sure of the source and load. Especially on an electronically controlled engine.
Thanks for the info.
I did not jump brown to brown only black to brown. This was a suggested bypass, but it blows fuse 4 doing so even when fuse 3 has no fuse in it.
Another scenario is fuse 3 blows even without the taillight sensor in place. Does that not say the short can not be after the taillight sensor?
 

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Thanks for the info.
I did not jump brown to brown only black to brown. This was a suggested bypass, but it blows fuse 4 doing so even when fuse 3 has no fuse in it.
Another scenario is fuse 3 blows even without the taillight sensor in place. Does that not say the short can not be after the taillight sensor?
If you are blowing fuses with the sensor disconnected and the wires NOT jumpered, the short lies forward of the sensor. Unfortunately, I can't see which wires you are jumpering that blows fuse four.
When you bypass the sensor, you should be jumpering brown to brown, and g/y to g/y ONLY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you are blowing fuses with the sensor disconnected and the wires NOT jumpered, the short lies forward of the sensor. Unfortunately, I can't see which wires you are jumpering that blows fuse four.
When you bypass the sensor, you should be jumpering brown to brown, and g/y to g/y ONLY.
Correct - blowing fuse 3 with no tail light sensor and not jumpering.
Good to know about the jumpering, but I know I don't have a faulty tail light sensor since I got it working for about 10 minutes. As described in previous post.

I printed the diagram from GoldWingDocs. Blew it up to 6 pieces of papaer that I then taped together. I see a tail light relay on the diagram - not the sensor and not the relay in the fuse box. Could you tell me how to locate that one? Online searching is not helping. All the other relays tested out. Wanted to eliminate that possibility. Thanks
 
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