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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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My throttle cables have gotten sticky. I can oil it and it will work for a few hours but starts hanging up again. I'd guess I need to replace them...after only a quarter million miles? What junk.

Anyway, my questions.

What is the difference between '87 and the other years?

What's the best source for cables? OEM=N/A.

Anybody know a way to save these old ones?
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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Thanks for the link, Sam. That looks like pretty good prices.

Anybody know the difference in the '87 cable? OEM part number is different than the other three years.
 

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Here ya go Den
Check the parts fiches on the different years. I think you know but won't ASSUME, that you know all cables need to be lubed each year or they rust inside and the rust causes the cable to chaff on the outer sheath and fray, then they brake on ya when you least expect it, remember ......
'Smile, you might be on Candid Camera!'

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_select1.asp?cat=Motorcycles&mfg=Honda
 

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Heffo wrote:
I use a graphite lube on my cables. I've used it forever and never had cable problems.
Same here. Not affected by the cold like oils.

Something I haven't checked too much into are the Teflon-lined cables. Expensive is all I know at this point. That, and they are factory on some new(er) bikes. They aren't supposed to be oiled like our older cables. I'm not exactly sure what the maintenance is on them. Like said, I haven't checked too much into it yet.. Worth a look into IMO though. I'll be checking into these cables soon thoughfor a future bike.
 

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On our dirt bikes we used to snip the corner off of a sandwich bag then slip it over the top end of the cables and wrap it tight to the cable with rubber bands and tape. Then we would pour kerosene into the bag and let if work its way thru the cable. Would work the cable shaft back and forth to loosen up the old gunk. Refilled the kero as needed. Then we would introduce a light oil like ATF into the bag and let it work its way to the bottom of the cable. That alone saved replacing many cables over the years.

I think I remember where some outfit was making a clamp arrangement to go over the cable and then you forced WD-40 thru the cable. Since WD-40 is basically desented Kerosene that was designed for cleaning up Missile systems it should work.

Also know that WD-40 production was transferred from CA to LA a couple or four years ago. However they went thru great growing pains in LA trying to produce it correctly and spent a bunch of $$ trucking WD-40 to LA to be canned. A tanker yanker friend said he felt like a yo-yo making those runs.
 

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Hey Dennis, i`ve been out of the loop out riding all summer now that winter is back what ever happened to your carb problems?? did you ever get that situation cleared up ?? just curious
Roy
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
(1) - I thought the GL12 cables were teflon lined.

(2) - There is nothing in the manual about lubing them.
(1) - No.

(2) - Yes.

Same as the 1000 and 1100 manuals.

The info is part of the maintenance schedule (every other maintenance block).

Marked with an *I* for Inspect, Clean, Adjust, Lubricate or Replace as necessary.

Page 2-12 of the factory GL12 manual gives "Lubrication Points" for the throttle and choke cables as using a "Light Weight Oil".

As a note of my experience, unless the cables are completely flushed of all petroleum product, using a graphite is pointless. Flushing a cable clean of petro-whatever is a process. Graphite is carried by alcohol. Alcohol alone won't flush the petroleum out. The processes I've found never really get 100% of it out, but close enough for me to be satisfied. Naptha > Tide laundry detergent > dish soap > Lotsa water to finish the flush then I use Lock-Ease. Time consuming, but worth it. My cables are uneffected by the cold. With a WD-40 or something similar, they'd gum-up below freezing.
 

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Dennis --- This is my favorite lube, it's available at Lowes or most hardware stores. I think i have a set of cables that came with a throtle assembly i got on E Bay.

Jim
 

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If they've been on the bike for ten years I just change 'em. Clutch cables especially. It's always a surprise how nice it is to ride a bike with new cables, better than the new tire feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How did this thread get out of storage?
I never changed the cables. The problem turned out to be the adjustment on the free play. But you are most likely right Exavid, new cables would feel considerably better than 25 year old cables.
Oh...and I've been meaning to ask you. What brand of tail-draggin' trike is that in your avatar?
 

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Dennis your cables are probably just dirty and you didn't mention what you used to "oil" them. Before I bought new cables I'd remove the old ones and try to flush them out. At least inspect them for kinks or worn through spots. Now how to flush them I have no idea but you'll think of something. I'm thinking I would try carb cleaner or similar solvent. Then use a cable specific lube after they dry completely from your flushing.
 

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How did this thread get out of storage?
I never changed the cables. The problem turned out to be the adjustment on the free play. But you are most likely right Exavid, new cables would feel considerably better than 25 year old cables.
Oh...and I've been meaning to ask you. What brand of tail-draggin' trike is that in your avatar?
It's a 1946 Commonwealth Skyranger that my BIL and I rebuilt from a basket case.
 

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Cables... Cables are like a pain in the butt child, either they are good or they are bad. Old cables may have issues beyond lube, they can fray in the housings at bends, you lube them they free up, but the fray again works loose. Sticky cables try once to lube them by gravity feeding them lube overnight with a lube containing teflon brand is a matter of choice. If after a month or so the again are sticky, replace those puppies otherwise you might get stuck in just the wrong place.
 

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Have you disconnected the cable from the carbs? If so is it still stuck? If so it's time to order a new choke cable. If the cable works okay when it's disconnected from the carbs then the carbs need a look. I had an 1100 in the shop a few years back that had frozen choke plate shafts. They were nearly impossible to move. A bit of PBS blaster and working the chokes manually freed them up.
 
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