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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I'm in the process of reinstalling my carbs, but after putting both throttle cables on, the throttle is very slow to return back to zero degrees. In other words, it's sticky. It was fine before I removed them, and the linkage works great when the cables aren't on. I have tried loosening and tightening the nuts, but I must be doing it wrong. Can anybody tell me the right way to do this? Thank you!
 

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Probably too tight a bend in the cables if you routed them differently than they were and there is a sharp bend especially right at the end where the cable sheath meets the metal end at the carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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I don't notice a huge bend, but that doesn't mean it's not there. I routed them over the tops of the carbs. Are they supposed to go under?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Nuts, I was hoping to have these on and see if my carb job worked this morning, looks like it'll have to wait another day. If anyone has any more input about my sticky throttle, I would appreciate advice. Once again, it twists but doesn't spring back closed. (The springs on the carb work fine when the cables aren't hooked up.) It just kind of slowly drags closed.
 

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Tight bends are usually the problem. "Huge" bends would be fine, if you meant large bends as opposed to tight ones.
 

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Still Learning
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Have you lubed the cables? They need it yearly or they rust inside the sheath and grow inside to bind the stainless cable. Why they are not stainless sheaths is a contention point!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Sorry, sharp bends is what I meant. No sharp bends that I could see. I even took them off the bracket and almost straightened them and they did the same thing. Plus, they were not doing this at all right before I took them off(which was only a few days ago) which makes me think it's probably not rust. Still haven't figured it out...
 

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Most motorcycle shops carry a handy little tool for lubing control cables. It consists of a little rubber seal arrangement in an aluminum clamp. You connect this to the end of the cable and insert the small tube from a can of spray cable lube and squirt till the lube comes out the other end of the cable. Magic!
Do this yearly and try to rout your cables as straight as possible and things should run free.

There is a long hexagon shaped nut just below the twist grip that is the adjuster for free play between the push and pull cable. There is a lock nut at one end of it that holds the adjustment. If this adjustment is too tight the throttle will bind. There should be a slight amount of free play between pull and push.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Okay, maybe I'm misunderstanding how these cables actually work. Assuming the cables are unhooked from the carbs, when you twist the throttle back and forth, should there be any resistance at the cable ends? Or do they just freely move back and forth. Is there supposed to be slack at the wheel on the carb or something? Lol, I'm feeling less competent by the minute, but I'm determined to figure this out and get these damn carbs back on my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
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I'm just wondering if the lower throttle cable is necessary for the smooth transitioning in powering down the bike, or if it's mostly a safety measure you could do without despite the risk of only having one throttle cable. I'm really not considering this option for riding. But I'm having a hell of a time getting my carbs back on because of these throttle cables, and it's making me wonder about the utility of it.

When the upper one is installed by itself, the carbs spring back like they are supposed to. But I can't keep the lower one from making the carbs slowly drag closed when I put it on.

(No rust, they were working fine when I took them off a few days ago to clean the carbs, and no tight bends in the cables)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Update: I took the housing apart on the handlebar to take a look at the cables on the inside. While not hooked up at the carb, both cables are easy to pull(one at a time) back and forth by hand when holding on to each end. But as soon as you start to use the throttle to move them both at the same time, they seem to drag.

I'm sure this is an easy answer and at this point, I'm only hoping that some other poor guy struggling with a similiar problem reads this post and learns exactly what not to do and avoids the slowest possible way of re-installing his carburator.

:sleepy:
 

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It will work without it but it is a safety feature so you can force the throttle closed. If you leave it disconnected at the carbs and still connected at the handle bar it could ball up in the switch housing and cause a problem. BTW that could be your problem if it got off to the side of the groove in the throttle tube.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Hey Dave, thanks for the response(Thanks everybody). It doesn't look to be balled up in the switch housing. And the only groove that I can see is the one right before the little metal end latches into its spot. Both appear to be seated well. I'm glad for the info about the lower cable, but I really don't want to put it back together with just the upper throttle cable. Not so much because of the safety issue, but just because I hate the idea of finishing this job half ass. However, I'm losing some SERIOUSLY good riding weather in Texas right now. Guess I'll futz with it a while longer after I get off work tonight.
 

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If it was fine before, and the linkage snaps back correctly, the I'd think the cables are routed orinstalled wrong.
 

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my stock rubber throttle hand grip was too tight against the switch housing
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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Hey Dennis, So on the routing point...They just come down from the throttle, around the front, over the plenum box, and then take a little inward turn toward the bracket. Is that right? Are they supposed to go under the carbs or something? And as to the idea that they are installed wrong, I would say you are DEFINITELY right about that, lol. Otherwise the dang things would be working.
 

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Run them outside the frame and under it straight into the carbs. You have to tuck them up under the lower edge of the shelter to hide them but it's a straighter shot than trying to put them inside the frame.
 

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Do like Dave says. It allows the cable to be installed with the carbs way farther to the left.
 

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I'm with Dave and Dennis. Run the cables outside the frame or they will drag. There is still room for the shelter to go on. This also gives you enough room when you turn left and right and not peg the tach.
 
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