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I have been reading and researching the replacement of the timing belts on my new (to me) GL1200 and would like to share my easy and bulletproof way of making this change stress free. As the owner of a number of Ducati's that seem to need way too many belt changes, I have developed this technique over at least 20-30 belt changes.



I did search this site and found lots of info on changing belts but not done this way. I followed the superb instructions found on this site and just added my own twist. When done with the witness marks it's impossible (or nearly so)to get them back on wrong and miss a tooth. You can then enjoy and adult beverage and start her up without fear of a bent valve or worse.





























































I really hope that this info helps another member change their belts. It's not a hard to do job and does not need a huge mechanical skill set. You just need to take your time, work methodically and have good instructions. It can be a bit tedious and you will spend a bit of time sitting/laying on the ground. In the end, you will have become more familiar with your bike, saved some significant moneyand have some fun.
 

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Nice work jcslocum.Thanks for the pics.If you do more don't hesitate to post the narrative and pics.
 

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Thanks jc,
that's my next project, these photos will help a lot. I thought I had read about one of the pulleys trying to move after removing the belt. Is that true and if so, which one is it?
 

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Very well done, many on here to include myself will find this invaluable in the future.

Keep up the great work and awesome pics.

Ride Safe, Ray

:waving:
 

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nice pics thats my next project as the p.o. doesnt return my phone calls and im afraid to ride it as my luck isnt the best
 

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Thank you so much for the informitive phototour, to change the timing belts. You make it sound so easy. This is my next project in the Spring.

May I ask the part number and manufacturer of your replacement belts?
 

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morriscatt wrote:

I thought I had read about one of the pulleys trying to move after removing the belt. Is that true and if so, which one is it?



The right (throttle side) rotates a couple of degrees due to the valve spring pressure. This picture shows the amount of movement. As long as you get your witness marks set right, you can't go wrong!





I used a box wrench to move it back into postition while fitting the new belt. It move with very little force. More than you can do by hand, but not much more.
 

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Hawggy wrote:
Thank you so much for the informitive phototour, to change the timing belts. You make it sound so easy. This is my next project in the Spring.

May I ask the part number and manufacturer of your replacement belts?
It is an easy task to do. There is just a lot of unbolting and bolting.... Lots of bits and pieces need to be taken off, but none of them are difficult and no special tools are required.

I bought my belts at the local NAPA shop for $15 each. Part # 250070.
 

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:cool:

Awesome - Kudos kudos kudos

My 1st attempt for changingbelts was going to be soon andoften wondered how I would do it with the intent on finding an easy path (with intent, like you, to share with others).

Dowe owe Ducati some thanks for the catalyst of your training.:D

Nice pics and Thank You for sharing your technique.:clapper:
 

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Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, and even though I did them on my old '77 with no probs, this will make it much simpler.
 

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Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, ....
Good idea only if the belts were installed correctly the first time. Not so good idea if they weren't.. you will only be repeating somebody else's mistakes....

I don't recommend doing this way unless you are positive that the previous installation was 100% correct.
 

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I agree with Jim. That method will be more suited to those who are used to doing timing belts. For everyone else I think it's essential to mark the engine casings as well or just line up with the existing marks onthe engine casings. It's a brave man who doesn't mark line up with the marks onthe engine.

Here is the forum tutorial page and video on GL1200 timing belts:



Replacing Timing Belts on a GL1200



 

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Can I assume this method will work on an 1100 as well. Would thinks so but always better to check. Thanks for the picture narrative. I was getting ready to do my first one soon and this certainly will help.
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, ....
Good idea only if the belts were installed correctly the first time.  Not so good idea if they weren't.. you will only be repeating somebody else's mistakes....

I don't recommend doing this way unless you are positive that the previous installation was 100% correct.
I would tend to agree but turning the engine over to line up the timing marks would verify it one way or the other.
 

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I really think you used more time marking things than it takes to just line up the marks. It is not that hard to just do it the right way (As per the manual) and then you are sure the marks are in the right place.. I would not be comfortable running the motor until I had lined up the marks to verify timing. So why not just do it in the first place??
 

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I checked my belts this spring, and they were Hondaline. Looked New. No frays or nics, no bad edges. Is there any way other than checking with the P/O when the belts need to be replaced?
Thanks,
Nightrider1
 

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There is a quick and dirty way to change belts assuming your bike is running well. Just mark the pulleys and the engine case adjacent to the pulleys, remove the belts and replace them making sure the pulley marks are still next to the marks you put on the case. No need to turn the engine to any particular place or marking. Crank the engine over by HAND with the spark plugs out, to make sure there's no interference and recheck the belt tension. That's it. Crank the engine over to check the alignment with the timing marks on the pulleys if you feel the need, you'll find them within half a tooth which is good. The direction to turn the engine is easy to see, turn it so the slack side of the belt is on the tensioner side and the tight side is the long side.

NO MATTER HOW YOU DO IT, ALWAYS TURN THE ENGINE OVER SLOWLY BY HAND WITH A WRENCH ON THE CRANKCASE BOLT TO FEEL FOR INTERFERENCE BEFORE TRYING TO CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE STARTER. The 1500 turns the opposite direction of the four cylinder bikes. This is because there's no primary chain in the 1500, it's completely gear driven.

If you do this you'll never have mechanical damage due to any possible error.
 
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