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GL1200 Timing Belt Replacement

10K views 49 replies 32 participants last post by  mikef 
#1 ·
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I have been reading and researching the replacement of the timing belts on my new (to me) GL1200 and would like to share my easy and bulletproof way of making this change stress free. As the owner of a number of Ducati's that seem to need way too many belt changes, I have developed this technique over at least 20-30 belt changes.



I did search this site and found lots of info on changing belts but not done this way. I followed the superb instructions found on this site and just added my own twist. When done with the witness marks it's impossible (or nearly so)to get them back on wrong and miss a tooth. You can then enjoy and adult beverage and start her up without fear of a bent valve or worse.





























































I really hope that this info helps another member change their belts. It's not a hard to do job and does not need a huge mechanical skill set. You just need to take your time, work methodically and have good instructions. It can be a bit tedious and you will spend a bit of time sitting/laying on the ground. In the end, you will have become more familiar with your bike, saved some significant moneyand have some fun.
 
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#2 ·
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Nice work jcslocum.Thanks for the pics.If you do more don't hesitate to post the narrative and pics.
 
#3 ·
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Thanks jc,
that's my next project, these photos will help a lot. I thought I had read about one of the pulleys trying to move after removing the belt. Is that true and if so, which one is it?
 
#6 ·
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Thank you so much for the informitive phototour, to change the timing belts. You make it sound so easy. This is my next project in the Spring.

May I ask the part number and manufacturer of your replacement belts?
 
#7 ·
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morriscatt wrote:

I thought I had read about one of the pulleys trying to move after removing the belt. Is that true and if so, which one is it?



The right (throttle side) rotates a couple of degrees due to the valve spring pressure. This picture shows the amount of movement. As long as you get your witness marks set right, you can't go wrong!





I used a box wrench to move it back into postition while fitting the new belt. It move with very little force. More than you can do by hand, but not much more.
 

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#8 ·
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Hawggy wrote:
Thank you so much for the informitive phototour, to change the timing belts. You make it sound so easy. This is my next project in the Spring.

May I ask the part number and manufacturer of your replacement belts?
It is an easy task to do. There is just a lot of unbolting and bolting.... Lots of bits and pieces need to be taken off, but none of them are difficult and no special tools are required.

I bought my belts at the local NAPA shop for $15 each. Part # 250070.
 
#9 ·
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:cool:

Awesome - Kudos kudos kudos

My 1st attempt for changingbelts was going to be soon andoften wondered how I would do it with the intent on finding an easy path (with intent, like you, to share with others).

Dowe owe Ducati some thanks for the catalyst of your training.:D

Nice pics and Thank You for sharing your technique.:clapper:
 
#10 ·
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Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, and even though I did them on my old '77 with no probs, this will make it much simpler.
 
#11 ·
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Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, ....
Good idea only if the belts were installed correctly the first time. Not so good idea if they weren't.. you will only be repeating somebody else's mistakes....

I don't recommend doing this way unless you are positive that the previous installation was 100% correct.
 
#12 ·
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I agree with Jim. That method will be more suited to those who are used to doing timing belts. For everyone else I think it's essential to mark the engine casings as well or just line up with the existing marks onthe engine casings. It's a brave man who doesn't mark line up with the marks onthe engine.

Here is the forum tutorial page and video on GL1200 timing belts:



Replacing Timing Belts on a GL1200



 
#14 ·
#15 ·
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sandiegobrass wrote:
Super instructoins,,,,,,,,,,,,, and so simple I can't beleive it wasn't though of sooner. I'll be doing mine in a month or so, ....
Good idea only if the belts were installed correctly the first time.  Not so good idea if they weren't.. you will only be repeating somebody else's mistakes....

I don't recommend doing this way unless you are positive that the previous installation was 100% correct.
I would tend to agree but turning the engine over to line up the timing marks would verify it one way or the other.
 
#16 ·
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I really think you used more time marking things than it takes to just line up the marks. It is not that hard to just do it the right way (As per the manual) and then you are sure the marks are in the right place.. I would not be comfortable running the motor until I had lined up the marks to verify timing. So why not just do it in the first place??
 
#20 ·
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There is a quick and dirty way to change belts assuming your bike is running well. Just mark the pulleys and the engine case adjacent to the pulleys, remove the belts and replace them making sure the pulley marks are still next to the marks you put on the case. No need to turn the engine to any particular place or marking. Crank the engine over by HAND with the spark plugs out, to make sure there's no interference and recheck the belt tension. That's it. Crank the engine over to check the alignment with the timing marks on the pulleys if you feel the need, you'll find them within half a tooth which is good. The direction to turn the engine is easy to see, turn it so the slack side of the belt is on the tensioner side and the tight side is the long side.

NO MATTER HOW YOU DO IT, ALWAYS TURN THE ENGINE OVER SLOWLY BY HAND WITH A WRENCH ON THE CRANKCASE BOLT TO FEEL FOR INTERFERENCE BEFORE TRYING TO CRANK THE ENGINE WITH THE STARTER. The 1500 turns the opposite direction of the four cylinder bikes. This is because there's no primary chain in the 1500, it's completely gear driven.

If you do this you'll never have mechanical damage due to any possible error.
 
#22 ·
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Hi Al,

You want a little play in your belt, But not a lot.

I used a small metal ruler placed mid point in the belts run and sighted along the back of the belt and pushed with my finger to see how much deflection I got.

I wanted a tad more than 1/4" but not as much as 1/2"
And that's pushing with my finger on the belt, But not real hard.
Just push hard enough till you feel resistance.
You will have to do this 3 or 4 times while you eyeball the ruler and see the deflection.

Some say 1/8" is enough. But you have a span of almost a foot from where the belt leaves the crank pulley to the cam pulley and I could deflect heavy sheet metal 1/8" with my finger in that distance.

And then I checked both belts again after tightening the bolts.
I had to do it two or three times until I was satisfied.

The purpose of the tensioner is to stop the belts from jumping a tooth.

But too mush pressure will prematurely wear your Cam Bearings and Seals.

If your Tensioner is in good shape you shouldn't hear a whine. Not a loud whine anyway.

Di you remove both tensioner pulleys and spin them by hand to see if there is any roughness to the bearings?

Good Luck

Mohawk
 
#23 ·
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I have my new 1000 belts, but haven't replaced them. I hate to bring up boring other vehicle facts, but in the "good old days" I learned to adjust Volks timing belts by twisting them by hand. If you could twist it 1/2 way on the long space, it was adjusted correctly. If it went over 1/2 twist, it was too loose etc. I never had a comeback. With these short belts, I'd expect less twistability. Anyone ever establish a twist factor for these? It's been 30 years since they were made, lol.
 
#24 ·
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HI MOHAWK,
CHECKED ALL PULLEYS.ALL SPIN FREE.WAS WORRIED ABOUT BELT JUMPING A TOOTH,THE WHINE IS NOT BAD.BUT A LITTLE MORE THAN I HAD BEFORE.I HAVE PUT A COUPLE THOUSAND MILES ON THE BELTS.IT JUST SEEMS LIKE I GET THE WHINE WHEN I REALLY GET ON IT.IDELING YOU DONT HEAR IT.MAYBE I AM JUST TO CAUTIOUS....
 
#25 ·
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And on the four cylinder Wings, in order to get a relative comparison of belt tension on both sides, to do the right belt, you should be rotating the crank shaft a full turn in order to get the cam pulley UP marks pointing down. Remember the propensity forthe rightpulley to self rotate due to cam load. This, of course, is done only after the new belts have been properly installed and you are doing the final tensioning.
 
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