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bike set for 8 years I got it started the no 4 cyclinder was blowing oil like a busted piston. Pulled the head pistons,cyclinders and rings ok. I had the head seated and valves ground. I believe the problem was the valve seals. Got it running again and the left head which carries the #4 cyclinder. Gets really hot. The cap on the rear end of the camshaft so hot u can't touch it . Also the head really hot. The right head is warm but not real hot. Any ideas.
 

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Sounds like you might have the head gasket backwards, or a passage blocked? On the 1100 there is a forward and a backwards and would restrict the water flow.
Did you check the water pump's condition? How about the thermostat? What is the temp gauge at during this 'Hot Head'?
 

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I only run the bike for 3-4 minutes the temp. guage was ok. I believe it is in the hydraulic tappets. According to the manual they must be bled if the valve seat or valve has been refaced. I called myself bleeding them but not sure i did it right. Anyone had any experience with them. Thanks
 

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My best guess would be that the cylinder balance is off. The heat on the left is probably normal but the right side is not getting enough fuel to make equal power. Therefore not as much heat. Did you sync the carbs? It might only be making "normal power" on the left side. Not that the left is hot but the right is cold. I would sync the carbs and adjust idle mixture if you did not do that already.
 

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Joe Lipps wrote:
bike set for 8 years I got it started the no 4 cyclinder was blowing oil like a busted piston. Pulled the head pistons,cyclinders and rings ok. I had the head seated and valves ground.
I'm not sure about the uneven heat but in my opinion the valves are now garbage. The valves are hard faced and any grinding removes the hard face and the valves will not last.
In addition to that any work on the valves or valve seats requires re-shimming of the valve lash adjusters not just bleeding as they work only over a tiny range.
 

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I agree about the valves and the shims. I have the new intake valves but I haven't been able to find any exhaust valves. Would any one know of any aftermarket places where I might purchase them.
 

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I would say like with head gaskets and water pumps go with OEM,
It will be pricey but so is replacing a head or heads because of substandard valves burning the seats.
 

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Just a different slant. I managed to over tighten the cam shaft carriers on mine when I installed following head rebuild with similar results.

You could just try backing off all the bolts and doing this again.

If it doesn't work then youv'e lost nothing
 

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Joe,
First I should say I didn't notice you had an LTD so sorry about the carb post. I am still curious if the issue is just related to idle or does it run bad all the time. I have done many valve jobs on many different vehicles and the only valves that I know of that can't be ground are sodium filled and that is only when there is no margin left. The danger is the sodium is under pressure and could be dangerous if ground too much. Any automotive machinist that is worth his salt will butt grind the valve to compensate for material removed from the valve and seat. My best guess would still be that the hot side is the good side and the cooler side is not making the power it should. If you have an infrared heat gun you could check temps at the exhaust. Another way is to touch the pipes with a wet finger to see how fast the water is boiled away. Hotter pipes are making more power.
 

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The man that did the valve job specializes in motorcycle engines. Like you he told me he had ground many of them and the Honda place just wanted to sell me new ones. However I haven't been able to find any exhaust valves.
The engine run smooth at an idle and when I ribbed it up it still sounded good. I didn't hold it open but a second or two since it hadn't been run for 8 years. Some excess oil was smoking on the pipes i wiped it off then I noticed the rear end of the head was smoking as I wiped it off is when I noticed it was to hot to touch. It just seemed it got to hot to quick especially since i could hold my hand on the other head.
 

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You filled the radiator with coolant, correct? Not just the plastic reservoir? (overflow tank) I have had a 1200 apart but to be honest I never put a head back on one. I changed that motor for a used one. Someone mentioned the potential to put the head gasket on upside down. IF that is possible maybe that blocks some of the cooling ports. Did it look like all the holes in the head gasket lined up with the holes in the head and block or did you notice? Maybe someone will chime in and talk more about that.It would seem possible that if the cooling ports are blocked and coolant cant flow in to the head it would get hot fast. Many talk about air locked cooling systems but that is more the case in motors that have radiators that are lower than the engine and not usually an issue in your bike. Hopefully someone that has first hand knowledge will chime in and help you out. I check port alignment when I install any head gasket for any vehicle. There are times when a single lube port has to go in a certain way or no oil will flow to the top of the engine etc. Work with the guys. They will work you through it.
 

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The 1200 head gaskets are symmetrical except for the oil return channel at the bottom, reversing them would not affect cooling but would cause a major oil leak.
 

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Joe Lipps wrote:
The man that did the valve job specializes in motorcycle engines. Like you he told me he had ground many of them and the Honda place just wanted to sell me new ones.
You mechanic is wrong, the exhaust valves are Stellite coated and if you grind through the thin coating they will not last very long.
 

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I loosened the camshaft cover bolts unfortunally it didn't help. Tomorrow i will pull the head and check the head gasket. It seems to be getting plenty of oil. But it sounds like something is rubbing.
 
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