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Well Twisty, that is a great pic of the air dam. But you were quite silent about your thoughts on its benefits. I may be inclined to remove it and see if things get even quieter. What do you think?

Paul, on my machine, there is a small crosspiece of fairing material that is independent of the air dam and keeps the lower sides from flapping--even without duct tape. RG would be shocked. :D
 

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Goldwinger1984 wrote:
larsernz, just want to let you know that the fellow that owns thisGL1200 with the odd vibration called me to to inform me that he has put over 14,000 kilometers on his bike with no change to the vibration whatsoever. He even towed a trailer behind his Wing through the Rocky Mountains on his way from Vancouver to Central Ontario and has not had any problems at all with the bike since I went over it mechanicallythis spring.

My best guess would be alternator driveshaft, improperly balanced rotoror the clutch causing the vibration problem.

Vic



Hi Vic!
Because of to many projects, I have sold my wing.... But it was a friend of mine who bought it. He has also a lot of projects, so he hasn't done anything with it yet. But he's going to some time this winter. My guess is the same as yours, it has to be one of those three components making the vibration. I'll get back to you with an update as soon as I know what it was:goofygrin:.

I miss my wing..........:(

Larsernz
 

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Those with vibes. Do a oil sample, like at your friendly Cat dealer. If results show "high iron", look at camshaft lobes. I have found 2 pretty flat ones, thus far. Kinda like the earlier small block Chev problems. Will cause the "wierd, resonant, type of vibe, +, won't ever sound "quite" right. Also carb sync is more important than we want to believe. Also, throttle body sync, is just as important. (LTD, SEi). I've actually had better luck, syncing my LTD by ear, than with gauges. Takes a few attempts, tho. Depends on our ear differences, too. I found by adjusting from right side, never could get it quite right. But I moved my bod over to left side, and got it "spot on" Running great! Sounds great. As for carbs, they have to be as close to identical as possible, (to each other),before sync job.
 

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watching this posting closely

I Posted exactly the same problems on the 8th May 2005.

bad vibs at 1500 to 2500 revs approx. In neutral or if the bike is been road.

bike has 85k on the clock approx (87 1200 asp)

since then bike started to run badly new oil was added new plugs fitted bike ran a lot better but not perfect, then after some time it came back.

on the road side we noticed dirty petrol pouring out off the right front down pipe.

bad vibs still there @ the 1500 to 2500 rev range

not nice to ride with.

worse under load.

New belts x2 and pullie renewed to right side.fitted because it thenstarted with a load tapping noise "be it intermitant" on the right side.

Vibs still there.:baffled:

over 2500 rev range bike goes like a rocket

il keep watching guys. (friends bike)


CARBS BALANCED - NO DIFFERENT
 

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Hi guys just been looking back on this site and thought those vibrations sound familiar i have just posted a reply on the same topic that may be of some help it was a recent post should you have any problem finding it send me a pm regards and happy new year to all Dermot.
 

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Bob,

I know its been a long time since you posted the original problem .........

Did you ever resolve the vibration issue on your Goldwing - I have the same issue on my Goldwing with 176,000 miles on the clock.

Would appreciate any info you can give me, especially if you resolved the problem. I replaced the drive uni joint, the drive shaft, the final drive (it was leaking oil anyway), but still the same, bike still runs great apart from the vibration just like you had.. Now will try synchronizing the carbs.

Bazza
 

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hi i have same problem in my 86 sei im puled out engine and have checked alternator rotor no any loose i check all parts under rear cover and no any problems i repleced stator still same i repleced vacum hose conecting carbs with vacum sensor and now is much better but still feel vibration in sei you can only balance right pair carbs with left pair there is no balance between 2 carbs on same side (only 2 vacum sensors one on each sideand this may be a problem becouse when i connect 4 vacum gauges oneto each carb i notice there is a litle difrence beetwen them and i dont know how can i correct this thing

one more thing i repleced spark plugs for new NGK and after few hours of ride using iductive timing light i notie that 2 spark plugs misfiring so i repleced all sparkplugs for old spark plugs wchith i found in spare engine wich i bought few month ago this spark plugs wasnt used long becouse looks like new and looks better quality than NGK, was made in japan DENSO and spark is much better and engine working better but not fine still feel vibration so may be there is a problem with ignition why new NGK brake doown after few hours of work thanks
 

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Kylo21,

Here is an interesting solution for you ....., my Goldwing vibrates much less after this - I replaced the seals in the clutch slave cylinder. It appears that the slowly leaking seals in the clutch slave cylinder was allowing clutch fluid to leak into the clutch housing. Possibly the clutch fluid was washing out the lubricating oil on the outer clutch basket ball bearing.

Since I have replaced the clutch slave cylinder seals the vibration has reduced dramatically and although there is still some vibration while passing through the 1900 - 2200 RPM range the vibration is tolerable. My Goldwings still goes like a rocket.

I suspect the continual reduction in lubrication to the outer clutchbasket bearing has worn the bearing to a degree but I think it will survive OK. I have close to 180,000 miles on the bike.

If you have to add fluid to the clutch master cylinder reservoir every month ortwo it is possible you have a worn clutch outer basket bearing also. Its not a big job to replace the clutch slave cylinderseals - this might reduce your engine vibrations to as tolerable level just like it did for me. One day I will pull out the clutch basket to prove my theory - but not yet.

Bazza
 

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This an old thread but might as well say my bit. My 1500 does the same vibe. Removed the alt and rode...all perfect. Tried three different alts,still vibrated, so i suspect alt drive (maybe bearings??) Just completed a 12000km trip and nothing had changed..no worse,no better. This was towing a camper trailer too........turn the music up......
 

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Did you replace the rubber isolators when replacing the altenator? They can cause noise and vibration when they get old.
 

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Not sure if it's me you"re speaking to me Paul :)) but did that first thing. Tried two oem alts and one Compufire (which is on there now) Dave
 

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I've got a set of the rubber couplers for my alternator because I can feel it when the load changes. I had the bike idling in the garage last month and noticed I could feel and hear the change when the headlight modulator worked the headlights. The vibes were coming from the alternator which is only about a year old. Ireplaced the alternator on the bike at 100,000 miles but forgot to replace the couplers. I was hoping that the new ones would cure that, maybe not.
 

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:?

I am kind of bewildered- there are so many entries about the vibrations in Goldwings when running throught the 1700 - 2200 RPM range with many possibilities suggested however there does not appear to be any confirmed solutions.

Does this mean that there is no "fix", or the fix has just not been recorded on this site

Has anyone fixed their vibration issue ?, if so how was it fixed ! I am tolerating my vibration, but it has to be fixed eventually and I would like to have at least some idea of what totake apartfirst. My best guess is that it is the support beaings for the clutch basket.

Any assistance that anyone can give will be appreciated.

Bazza
 

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Chippy01 wrote:
To anyone reading; are there any balance shafts within the 1200 engine?

With the sort of milage quoted at the start, any bearings in or around that kind of area may be suspect.

With the vibration "driving itself out", as with a steering wheel wobble on a car, I would summise something like shaft/bearing.

Just a thought. Nasty, I know; but possible.

Phil.

Gidday Phil, I just came upon your post buried in the tech forums. I dont know you if you or others still need an answer, but I figured this might help someone.

1) There is a balancing unit located on the Alternator shaft. It is a "Steel Ball in Fluid" type of balancer. The steel ball case can get full of crud which breaks away and jams the balls at lower engine rpm. This can cause a left side rattle at idle which will dissapear at around 2500rpm.



2) If the Balls jam as above it will then create excessive movement in the spring damper unit on the same alternator shaft which can wear away the friction material on the ball case and damper spring case. Once this happens the damper will bind, creating some pretty bad vibrations due to the fact there is no longer any damping going on.



solution.

clean the crud out of the ball case and inspect the friction material on the faces of the ball case and damper case. Also check for any score marks on the gear where the damper and ball case mate. Replace any damage or worn parts and reassemble. (you need a press to remove and install the collets.



All the best

Scotty
 

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Great post 5co77yit's always satisfying to find the answer to a problem even if it's a few years later. I looked at MOTOGRID's fische a few minutes ago to see the balancer you were mentioning. It's pretty apparent to me that you've nailed that one. Just one more bit in the Goldwing knowledge base here. Thanks for the follow up post I'm sure it will help someone.
 
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