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Hi,
I just rebuild my carbs (using the Randakk kit) Yay! Even though it looks like two octopuses were in a fight on it with all the vacuum tubes etc. I'm pretty sure all the tentacles ended up in the right places.

I just balanced the carbs also.

I adjusted the Idle mix screws at '3 turns out' from seated.

Here is my situation that I'm hoping to get some advice on:
I set the choke, and the bike starts right up.
BUT, it won't idle if I set the choke completely off. Even when the engine is warm.
so to avoid the engine dying at stops, I reach for the choke as I'm slowing down and open the choke just a little to keep it running.

Should I just adjust the choke to be a 'little open' all the time? Or is there some other thing I could do to fix?

Thanks!
- Craig
Not the first to look for someone to tell them that keeping the choke on all the time is a good idea; its not. There is something wrong, so you should fix the problem, not the symptom.

Depending on how dirty the carb.s were, there is a good chance they need to be done again. Getting EVERY bit of crud out the first is not easy, and sometimes crud migrates shortly after the rebuild. I too have had this happen, all seems clean and good, until you run the bike a little. As a matter of fact, I have had carb. sets I needed to tear into 3 or more times.

It could also me that something is not hooked up correctly.

My advice is to take another look with them installed. If you can't find anything on the outside you should look again at the inside.


Bill
 

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...but here's a 'quick and dirty' you can try. Remove the mix screw, spring, washer and oring from each carb. Drain and remove the drain screw from each carb (both done without removing carbs from bike). Take a good fresh can of carb cleaner, put the tube into each mix screw hole as far as it goes and give it a good flush. Put a rag under the carb to catch the carb cleaner that comes out the drain (sometimes it's hard on the engine paint) Reinstall all parts and give it a try...first start you might want to hold throttle half open as the carb spray will have flooded the intake manifolds. Sometimes this works if the slow circuit contamination isn't really stubborn.
Yes, you can try what he says, but if you used compressed air on those before and they were clean before you installed them as you said, then if they are still clean they are not the issue now and you need to pull them apart again. If they are now clogged (or just one) you need to un-clog, and even if you can do that with the carb.s still in the bike (and not damage/loose any of those small parts, or ruin your paint), the stuff doing the clogging came from somehere, and EVERYTHING needs to get checked again (pull them out/apart).

.....You're probably gonna have to reclean the carbs.......
I agree 110%, reguardless of wether or not he does what you posted.

Thanks Dizzy! Thats the kind of tip I can live with (jet streaming with the carb cleaner.). Because, I REALLY hope I don't have to take that carb assembly apart again.

I'll try these various suggestions out, and post back the results.
Shortcuts can and will leave you stranded, and maybe have you doing far more work in the long run. Also, you might be amazed on what you find if you go back into them; I know I have.



Bill
 

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I tried the 'back flushing' that Dizzy suggested. I did it on just 2 cylinders... the right side (which is where I suspect the issue was coming from.) I THINK IT WORKED!

The bike WILL Idle now without the choke... but, the idling is very rough. I will try to balance the carbs again and see where it leaves me.
I stand by my statements in post 13.

If the carb.s were clean when you put them back in, and 're-cleaning' just part two of the carb.s has now made the bike run better indicates that there was more crud in them that had to come from somewhere. The likelyhood of even more crud hiding in the carb.s is very high, so my question is: Would you rather deal with it now, or would your rather take a risk and have it re-crud when you are 100 miles from home?


Bill
 
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