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Discussion Starter #21
You cant get pistons off with engine in situ as you have to split the crankcases, they are also bloody awful to rebuild
Oh futtocks, I had rather assumed without actually checking if it could be done......

....OK, low compression model it will have to be then!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
glad to see you are cleaning up the mess...

once you can put it on the road, just drive it like you stole it, and eventually the compression readings will level out near the same.
... I wish somebody would steal it........ :p
 

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Dont know where in UK you are but i got the proper Honda manual and more to the point have actually had one in bits and it ran after i rebuilt it.
As you have found there are a lot of differences between modles but they strip and assemble the same
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Hi Bryan, I'm down near Winchester. Not needed the manual for anything as yet, got all the info I needed so far off the intermaweb. Theres a lot of good, verified. i.e. agreed by more than one reputable source, for all the info i've needed so far. The only thing i've not bottommed out is the starter motor. It's definitely the wrong one as the terminal is too far down the body and, on closer inspection, the nugget that had this before has extended the cable to meet the terminal by using a flat peice of bent metal bolted onto the existing cable. Honestly a chimpanzee using only a mallet and a bowl of muesli would have come up with a better engineered solution.

I'll post a picture tomorrow.
 

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My mates 1200 starter died and he got one on ebay for about £80 if memery serves
 

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The only thing i've not bottommed out is the starter motor. It's definitely the wrong one as the terminal is too far down the body and, on closer inspection,
That just means it is a permanent magnet starter, probably is the wrong one but the position of the terminal doesn't make it wrong. Probably for a GL1100.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hmmm, another little quandary. Everything is back together (bar all the shiny bits and accessories), I can't get any power to the fuel pump when cranking. I've checked the relay and this SEEMS to have power in and power out. The bike is a Florida import and i'm struggling to get an online wiring diagram so I'm not completely sure if the readings i'm getting are correct.

I have sparks, but no pump, I can make the pump spin with a direct feed so that's all good. It does keep spinning though, I was expecting it to labour when the carbs fill so i'm not sure its actually moving fuel at the moment but it does spin nicely.

One issue, and i'm not sure if this will effect it, is that the gear indicator inside the front cover is in the wrong place. I put it on correctly unfortunately in all the disassembly the gearlever must have been moved and it was not in neutral when I positioned it. So it's indicating neutral when it's in gear. Obviously I can sort this out later but will this stop it starting?

Kill switch is OK.
Dashboard all lights up OK.

The wiring loom was a right mess and took a bit of repairing so its not inconceivable that there's an error somewhere.

So basically;
1: Will the gear indicator matter?
2: Is there another connector between the fuel pump relay and the pump (not the two wire inder the seat i've got that one).
3: Is there an online wiring diagram for a 1200AF Florida import?

Thanks all.

Neil
 

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Discussion Starter #28
OK, forget all that..... I hadn't turned the petrol tap on....... which is why the pump was just spinning:rolleyes:. See, I even post my mistakes up for your enjoyment!

Got a couple of fuel leaks from the new pipes so need to sort those out before I can see if it continues to run.

Also have a oil leaks from the cam covers as two of the threads are mullered and need to be helicoiled. How do you overtighten a bolt with a shoulder on it??

Not a lot of metal around those threads is there?
 

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Also have a oil leaks from the cam covers as two of the threads are mullered and need to be helicoiled. How do you overtighten a bolt with a shoulder on it??
People will try to tighten the bolts farther if they have a leek, stripped threads result.
 

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Its the cost of changing the cone rubbers on the bolts that puts people off so they tighten more. Carefull with the helicoils if not fitted carefully the bind on the bolt and unscrew
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Well, sorted out the fuel pump. After striiping it down to get at the relay and everything checking out elctrically it fired right up after reassembly. Must be a sticky relay or a bad connection, either way its run fine for 20 minutes.

Next issue is that the fan didn't cut in..... will this list never end! :). I am assiming four bars on the temperature gauge would set it off.
I know the fan is good as I did a complete stripdown on it and soldered new wires on.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Bike runs OK but the carbs definetely need to be balanced.
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Well we're all done, bike all back together, everything done apart from a couple of niggles. One mile of running and straight through the MOT. No advisories, no issues at all. Couple of bits left to do, need to get two lamp holders to go in the top box light bar, the one on the bike had them missing so went to the MOT without the top box. When we've got these sourced or a decent secondhand light bar then I'll make up a new sub loom to get stop tail and indicators wired into it.

323706


Nearly there

323707

This is someone's idea of how to wire up lights.

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This is the 'surplus' removed....
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and finished, always pleasing to get the hot glue gun out on occassions. Should have cleaned up the bench first......

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Carbs all balanced......
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And there we go, all done, MOT, taxed and insured one hour after first road test.... :p

List of work done:
Stator plate replaced.
Clutch strip and check.
Water pump replaced.
All carb vacuum and fuel hoses replaced.
New carb piston, needle and diaphragm.
New carb float seals.
Cylinder heads helicoiled for cam box cover screws.
Wiring reverted back to standard. Many connections remade. Multiblocks replaced.
Steering head bearings replaced. (Made special service tool to tighten castlellated nut).
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Remnants of center stand removed. (seriously, would you actually use this on a 700 lb bike, i;ve seen better welds done by a pigeon).
and no, I didn't snap the bracket, that's how it was..... the previous owner had those bolts put in so that it only just went over centre on the stand, and when I say just over it was exactly that, JUSY past the balance point.A mouse fart within 10 feet of the back of the bike would have blown it off the stand.
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All brake pistons, seals and dust covers replaced.
All hydraulic lines replaced with braided lines
Tyres replaced with proper black ones.
New spark plugs, antifreeze, oil filter and oil.
New paper gaskets made by hand. (very therapuetic).
Complete strip down of front forks and antidive system.
New fork leg seals, bushes and oil
Partial strip of rear shocks including new oil.
Engine painted.
New stainless steel exhaust system.
New hand fabricated exhaust nuts.
Engine cams retimed properly.
Bike repainted.

Thanks to everyone that went out of their way to help out. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Yes it is Bryan, its great when the owner is pleased with the end result.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I knew it was too good to last...…..

The bikes done a few hundred miles now and its clear that there were underlying issues with the engine. (which was untried and untested).

It's lost all its coolant and was blowing white smoke out of the right hand exhaust on startup and when running. Clearly the head gasket has expired. In addition clouds of blue smoke were also being developed on throttle after overrun so the valve guides / oil seals were suspect.

So back in the workshop we go... stripped down the head on the right and it's definitely had it. Gasket gone, valve seats pitted on exhaust side, valve stem oil seals brittle and the valve guides were beyond all hope.

Good news is that there is no wear on the bores and no movement in the pistons. which is not bad for 120k.

So its either a complete head rebuild on both sides with new everything plus a lot of machining or plan B, get a low(er) mileage second hand short motor.

Plan B is the only sensible option as a complete motor can be obtained for around £400 whereas a complete rebuild will be £1000+. It's £800 just in parts. The bikes probably got a residual ceiling value of around £2500.

I'll post some pictures later of the wear & damage.
 

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I would suggest that if you decide to buy used try to find one you can hear run. Otherwise you just can't be sure what shape the 35 tear old engine is in. Next best would be a warranty of some sort that works for you. Don't buy just on the sellers word no matter how honest he seems. "Runs great" to him might not be so good to you. 😎
 

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You could just buy a used head. That way you can actually see the condition before you spend the cash.
 

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Agree with redwing52, buying a used engine on faith is buying a used engine, and you already have one. Engine rebuild cost is directly related to how much you are willing to do. I am rebuilding the engine and doing a complete paint job of my '85 Limited Edition, but it is my retirement project and I am keeping it. Did a lot of research into the cost of rebuilding the engine and started looking for parts early on. Do my own work and only farm out the work that I cannot do because of the lack of tools, or the cost/time equation is better served doing this.

Read a lot of forum threads before I started my engine rebuild, and found that the internals are quite robust and most did a hone of the cylinders to remove the glaze that happens over the years, new rings and then reassemble using the original con rod and crank journal bearings. The only wildcard with taking the engine apart is if a con rod or crank journal bearing is bad, finding a replacement is a challenge. You won't know the size of these bearings until you do take the engine apart. Cylinder heads were mostly DIY, lapped the valves, new valve stem seals and put back on. Exhaust valves are generally the main issue with low/lower cylinder compression, lots of crud builds up on the valve or valve seats. Found that the look of the engine is more intimidating then actually doing the work. Engine gets a good cleaning, any other issues can be fixed.

Had a squealing in my engine whenever it sat for an extended period of time. It would go away after a while, but was annoying. Found two internal bearings seized:
Alt Shaft Bearing.jpg
There are advantages to taking the engine apart.

Good luck.
 
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