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Reminder to ck the other connector next to battery for same problem.
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If you mean the PG connector, it will not have a problem, there is almost no current flowing through it, leave it alone.
Also, if you solder in another connector you are adding 1 more solder joint and a connector, why not just solder the wires together and be done with it?
 

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If my stator is bad - or when it does go bad, rest assured I will go the poorboy route. Not a gw purist. Just want to ride with confidence, lots of accesories and juice to spare. (and NOT catch on fire :) But I can understand others wanting to keep it factory and not chop it up too.

It's not a matter of "purist". It's that, of the poorboy jobs I've seen, only one was acceptable looking. All the rest were very poorly executed, with fairing lower pieces buckled, loose, cut, broken or missing and fan rattling or rubbing. And that all is obvious at first glance. Close inspection is enough to make me puke, or laugh.

The stock system isn't perfect, but, by cutting that plug out you can make it as reliable as others. It's your bike and you can do as you wish. I just don't think the poorboy is an acceptable choice. That due to it's expense and difficulty of installation.
 

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I personally would never use crimp connectors. Take the time to actually solder the wires together. Crimp on connectors are in my opinion one of the worst "short cuts" man has ever invented.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It's not a matter of "purist". It's that, of the poorboy jobs I've seen, only one was acceptable looking. All the rest were very poorly executed, with fairing lower pieces buckled, loose, cut, broken or missing and fan rattling or rubbing. And that all is obvious at first glance. Close inspection is enough to make me puke, or laugh..
ah thanks for that.. I didn't realize that it was so hard to make it look decent. Hopefully mine will be ok and I won't have to worry about it.

Good connectors and a real ratcheting crimper tool make a connection just as reliable as solder.
 

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Dave I was only telling the story of the dealer kit- as I foolishly installed many years ago on a Shadow.
The special braiding of wires- in a way I had not seen before and its not simple twisting THEN you lay some solder in-thru-on it to make it solid.

I agree, why would you install a new connector, its purpose in life was to facilitate speed of assembly at the factory.

What models were having a prob with a connector next to battery? pretty sure I read about it here
 

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Dave I was only telling the story of the dealer kit- as I foolishly installed many years ago on a Shadow.
The special braiding of wires- in a way I had not seen before and its not simple twisting THEN you lay some solder in-thru-on it to make it solid.

I agree, why would you install a new connector, its purpose in life was to facilitate speed of assembly at the factory.

What models were having a prob with a connector next to battery? pretty sure I read about it here
The 3 wire stator connector is next to the battery on 1100s and 1200s, so is the 4 wire PG connector on 1100s and 84 1200s but again, don't mess with it.
 

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.

Good connectors and a real ratcheting crimper tool make a connection just as reliable as solder.
Good quality connectors with "real metal" in them, and the crimper you spoke of has been in my tool kit for many decades... and it will make a "gas tight" connection that cannot be pulled apart.

the secret is to have a nice clean wire surface.... dirty, green looking wire will never make a good connection, with crimp terminals or twisting them together.
 

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I personally would never use crimp connectors. Take the time to actually solder the wires together. Crimp on connectors are in my opinion one of the worst "short cuts" man has ever invented.

This little connector here is maybe the worst short cut to a connection that I have ever seen. These things will fail eventually and are often hard to find the trouble.

 

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This little connector here is maybe the worst short cut to a connection that I have ever seen. These things will fail eventually and are often hard to find the trouble.

I totally agree with those abominable atrocious piece of crap wire ties.... I won't even call them a connector, they are NOT worthy of the name.

they WILL break several strands of wire every time, and they will leave the wires bare to moisture and grime, and they WILL corrode in short order.
 

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This little connector here is maybe the worst short cut to a connection that I have ever seen. These things will fail eventually and are often hard to find the trouble.

No doubt. I recently bought a set of trailer lights that had those in the kit and just temporarily hooking them up to pull a trailer home I used them, only 1 light would work so I took them off and used wire nuts.
 

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I'm glad I ain't the only one who has nothing but loathing for these "tings".



Many a time on the side of the Interstate or other highway, sometimes in freezing or rainy or etc weather .... I have watched a poor truck's driver chase wiring faults through a long series of them. Like wise, a few people pulling trailers. I tried to be helpful ..... holding a flashlight or offering to call a service truck to meet us at the next exit. Abominations they are!

When we bought the Trike in 2004, soon afterwards I discovered that my buddy who was the original owner of it as a bike and who had converted it to a trike after going to Lehman's school had used what Lehman sent with the kit, these same connectors .... and he had for other light additions. Only took me a couple afternoons to remove and properly (IMHO) splice and or remake connections.

Them "tings" cut wire strands, let in moisture, and cause problems with dissimilar metals .... corrosion .... and they seem to let people down when times are the worst timing wise .... like when a trooper is loafing along behind at 1 am.


:rofl:
 

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I'm glad I ain't the only one who has nothing but loathing for these "tings".



Many a time on the side of the Interstate or other highway, sometimes in freezing or rainy or etc weather .... I have watched a poor truck's driver chase wiring faults through a long series of them. Like wise, a few people pulling trailers. I tried to be helpful ..... holding a flashlight or offering to call a service truck to meet us at the next exit. Abominations they are!

When we bought the Trike in 2004, soon afterwards I discovered that my buddy who was the original owner of it as a bike and who had converted it to a trike after going to Lehman's school had used what Lehman sent with the kit, these same connectors .... and he had for other light additions. Only took me a couple afternoons to remove and properly (IMHO) splice and or remake connections.

Them "tings" cut wire strands, let in moisture, and cause problems with dissimilar metals .... corrosion .... and they seem to let people down when times are the worst timing wise .... like when a trooper is loafing along behind at 1 am.

:rofl:
Then suddenly those blue "tings" cause blue lights to flash! :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So I finally got some time to mess with my wing. Cut out all the burnt wire/connector mess.. it was not as bad as it looked - most of what appeared to be burnt was really just soot and wiped off. Final diagnosis - a previous owner had done a pretty poor job of replacing that original 3 wire plug. they used a 4 wire trailer light pigtail. first problem is that is pretty light gauge wire, maybe 18ga? second they used about a foot of it to make a 2 inch splice. third, they used crappy crimps. anyway, all the insulation burnt off all three wires for the whole foot long length hence all the fire. I should have given it a closer look before riding it so much. I saw it had been modded and took that as a good sign - but no.

After clean up, pulled out meter and tested the three wires from the stator, none were shorted to ground and .6 ohms between any pair.

turns out there was plenty of good slack left in those yellow wires/black stripe.. since I had so much/easy access I went ahead and soldered them and did a pretty good job for me, and shrink tube.

Had to charge battery.. apparently in all the fire excitement I didn't turn the ignition all the way off. After charging, fired up and @ ~3000 rpm showing 14.6 between battery posts. which I understand is a little high, but I'm not going to worry about that.

So no poor boy, looks like I'm back in business. Thanks for the advice and hand holding. I feel much better now!
 

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the 14.6 will drop when the engine gets warm...
that is what the regulator is supposed to do with a cold battery, push it hard to ~14.6 to recharge it fast after the heavy drain from the starter motor.

then as the temp comes up to normal, the regulator will drop back to ~13.6
 

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I thought them wires looked a bit "puney" to be used there. :)

There is a mod that I need to do whether I do a Poor Boy or not ..... that is running a heavier wire from black wire coming out of the reg/rec past the plugs to the battery positive terminal through a relay activated by the ign switch. http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/355343-gl1200-charging-system-voltage.html
It is to give a more accurate "system voltage" reading to the reg/rec unit without the voltage loss at various plugs.
Mine is charging a bit high too, not bad, but "high" just the same. If it looses 0.3 or 0.4 vdc in connections, the reg/rec charges higher to get what it's looking for in that black wire. I already have my voltmeter wired through a ign switch controlled relay so I'll maybe use that. Everything coming off the battery positive terminal gets a fuse in my book.
 

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there are some connectors out there that are good to use and seldom cause problems,they are called posi-locks and they have some for connecting wires together and posi-taps to tap into wiring circuits
POSI_LOCKS,TAPSOrder Online- Discounts
 

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there are some connectors out there that are good to use and seldom cause problems,they are called posi-locks and they have some for connecting wires together and posi-taps to tap into wiring circuits
POSI_LOCKS,TAPSOrder Online- Discounts

I had forgotten about Posi-Lock connectors...
I am going to get some of those and keep them in my tool kit...
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I like the posi-locks too. I have a little accessory 3 circuit fuse block on one of my bikes that has posi-lock terminals for the circuits.. pretty cool idea. The only negative is on the tap, if you tap into a very thin wire be careful that little spear tip can cut strands of wire in the source you're tapping into. happened to me and caused weird intermittent problems and took a long time to figure out.
 

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Without the text, that makes no sense. The two graphics seem to disagree.

Chart one say's over 30% of Honda stators burn out but chart two says Honda gets more miles between burns outs than all but the BMW.

The only thing that makes the 'Wing's stator a real issue is its location. I remember '70s Suzuki 4 bangers having stator issues but it never became a big deal because it took an hour or less to replace it.
 
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