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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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Now that I have been riding my bike this summer, after fixing the carbs and starter, I have put about 2000 miles on it and that rear tire is looking quite smooth. So I will be removing the rear wheel in the next week and replacing the tire.
Are there any specific maintenance items I should do since I will have the wheel off? The bike has about 75K miles on it.

Thanks,
Lee
 

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Official "Cheeky Plonker"
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At the very least you should check your drive splines for wear and if you decide they are good then put some Moly 60 grease on them, not too much, as whatever they don't need will end up all over the right side of your rim, tire and whatever else is within centrifugalsplashing distance as soon as you get back on the road.
 

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Vintage Rider
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You didn't say what year it is, but if it is an '84 or '85, check the right side wheel bearing to make sure it is not loose in the wheel. That is bad news. I would remove the final drive gearcase and pull out the driveshaft. With the driveshaft pointing UP, pull it out of the final drive housing. Leave the housing in that position, or gear oil will run out where the driveshaft goes. Inspect the splines on the driven flange on the rear wheel, on the ring gear flange on the final drive gearcase, and on both ends of the driveshaft for wear. It is usually the ones on the wheel and back side of the gearcase that wear or get ground down due to lack of grease. Also up at the front, pull back the rubber boot, clean and check the splines on the engine output shaft and U joint. When you put it all back together, put Moly 60 on ALL the splines, and replace the oil seal on the end of the driveshaft that goes into the final drive housing. Then drain and replace the gear oil in the final drive housing.
 

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Still Learning
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That is Moly 60 PASTE, NOT GREASE!
Loctite makes moly paste @$23/8 oz on Amazon
as well as you can buy through Honda dealer $9/3 oz.
Also change the gear oil in the rear end if it hasn't been done in the past 2 years.
Inspect your shocks for leaks and the shock bushings for wear. Service the air compressor decadent(instructions in the GW workshop section)
Inspect the Brake pads and calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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I have an 84. I will evaluate the bearings and get the moly paste. It has been a few years since the gear oil has been changed so I will address that too. Shocks are good, though as they are progressive's.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Lee
 

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Junior Grue
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If you're addressing all the splines which you should you'll have the final drive off so this is a good opportunity to completely drain and change the final drive oil.
When drained on the centre stand you're only draining the top 2/3 and leaving the bottom and possibly dirtier 1/3 at the bottom.
 

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Still Learning
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Ken Bergen wrote:
If you're addressing all the splines which you should you'll have the final drive off so this is a good opportunity to completely drain and change the final drive oil.
When drained on the centre stand you're only draining the top 2/3 and leaving the bottom and possibly dirtier 1/3 at the bottom.
In this case being "several years " drain it before you are going to disassemble everything, refill with MMO, ride it 30-40 easy riding miles to warm it up some and as a flush then go back and drain it completely as you pull it apart to get all the sludge out. Warmed up sludge gets out easier than cold sludge. The MMO will thin out the sludge and clean the insides.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Took the rear wheel off today my 84 gl1200 and found that the right side bearing outer housing turns slightly in the wheel. I read a few posts regarding other's dilemma on the rear wheel bearing. I am thinking about having a steel insert/sleeve put in. Has anyone done that lately and can give an estimate on the cost of machining?
Thanks,
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jerry,
In your reply to me you mentioned "replacing the oil seal on the end of the driveshaft that goes into the final drive housing". Is that on the differential itself or the back of the engine? Also, what about the oil seal that surrounds the drive gear flange on the differential? While the area inside the wheel was grimy, it was not wet (indicating that the seal was not leaking gear lube).

Regarding the right side bearing, because the bearing still fits snug in the wheel, I am going to use loctite 603 retaining compound on the wheel/bearing as a temporary repair and keep my eyes open for either an 86/87 wheel or the left over parts from a 1500 trike conversion.
Thanks,
Lee
 
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