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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to replace the timing belts on my 1200A this spring as they are the original belts which means they are 27 years old :shock:. I just don't want to trust them anymore. While I'm at it, I'm seriously considering changing out the water pump, too, for the same reason. I've tried a search and can't find the same step by step info that I found on how to change the belts.
So my questions are what/where do i get for a replacement pump, and associated o-rings and gaskets? Also, the coolant will already be drained as the radiator has to go for the belts, does the oil have to be dumped also? I don't see why it should but, you guys know more about that than I do. And not to mention any advice, caveats, etc. I need to know about this before I start.

Ready to cram my head with knowledge....:bow:
 

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Just buy the parts from Western Honda, they have the best prices on line and the parts are usually in LA anyhow so you will get them faster than the parts being shipped to an eastern dealer then to you(they ship the parts first to the dealer you buy the parts from, then to you from the dealer)
 

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no the oil doesnt need to be dumped, to replace the water pump, its recommended to use OEM parts where ever possible, as in some cases other types of O rings and pumps can fail prematurely.

http://cyclemax.com/

replacing o rings, gaskets and the pump is reasonably straight forward, but I would suggest the purchase of a workshop manual to help you along the way. they are available sometimes on ebay.

silcate free coolant should be used when replaciing.

good luck,
 

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no the oil doesnt need to be dumped to replace the water pump....
On a GL1200 it does, as well as 1000s and 1100s.


In the past I ran the waterpumps until they failed, then when I had one let go when I was 200 miles from home and it was suddenly pouring coolant out the weep hole that I decided not to risk that any more. That bike NEVER driped ANY coolant until that, so now I treat them like timing belts.

That said, chances are you will have some time before something like that happens as most will just drip for a long time before they 'go'.


To the O.P., IF you decide to replace the pump I will buy the old one.


ADDED: I find that a u-joint 8mm 1/4" drive socket (not just an adapter) works great for the 1100s and 1200s when removing the upper front case cover bolts.



Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies. the pump is not leaking. Just thought it would be good to replace it before it fails and I'm halfway there while doing the belts. The cost, though, is a little more than I thought it would be but I'm not considering Chinese aftermarket parts-been burned before. The hottest the temperature has ever been is showing 4 bars on the temp gauge, the fan kicks on then as well.
So there is the decision, 'it ain't broke so don't fix it' or preventive maintenance? :?
 

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If the pump is not leaking and there is no 'wiggle' on the impellers then the pump is fine. But if the impellers have any wiggle to them at all then a new pump is needed. As a side note most people carry the OEM pump and charge about the same for it, except for Sabre Cycles, theirs is cheaper but made in India and is a piece of junk. Mine lasted less than 4 months before the shaft broke off inside the engine, plus their gaskets are paper thin and do not seal most of the time. In other words get OEM pump and gaskets, it will cost you $50.00 more now, but it is a lot cheaper than doing the job multiple times replacing failed gaskets, and then replacing the pump again anyway.
 

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If the pump is not leaking and there is no 'wiggle' on the impellers then the pump is fine. But if the impellers have any wiggle to them at all then a new pump is needed. As a side note most people carry the OEM pump and charge about the same for it, except for Sabre Cycles, theirs is cheaper but made in India and is a piece of junk. Mine lasted less than 4 months before the shaft broke off inside the engine, plus their gaskets are paper thin and do not seal most of the time. In other words get OEM pump and gaskets, it will cost you $50.00 more now, but it is a lot cheaper than doing the job multiple times replacing failed gaskets, and then replacing the pump again anyway.
+1.... Water pump should be fine if "it won't wiggle you must not figgle" :ROFL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That makes sense but, to test the shaft, don't I have to pull it all apart anyway?:?
 

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There is the inspection cover with 2 bolts on the front cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
looking at the picture, that means where the hose attaches to, right? And that will have a gasket to replace, I'm sure, to put it back on? When i pull up the 'front cover' on the fiche, it's the cover for the timing belts, not the one for the water pump. Which fiche name is the correct one so I can get a gasket for it, unless of course the shaft is loose then I'll need the whole kit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok. nevermind, I think. re-reading from the link I was sent earlier in this thread, it's an o-ring back there, not a gasket. If I'm real careful, I should be able to pull that and not damage the o-ring. And if I do, I should be able to get an o-ring for it at a hardware store, or from my collection of various o-rings that I have. I just don't want to wait a week for it because the local stealer doesn't stock anything.
 

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took mine to the local waterpump rebuilder and they did there thing for 10.50 that was two years ago .
That sounds like an interesting alternative. Do you have their name and contact info?

Of course a lot of the water pumps are so shot that the metal blades are scraping the casing, not sure I would want one of those rebuilt.
 

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.....Of course a lot of the water pumps are so shot that the metal blades are scraping the casing, not sure I would want one of those rebuilt.
I would, as long as the shaft was fine. I would prefer it over a NEW Honda plastic impeller one.

Also, I have seen plasic ones eat the alum case and be fine (I have also seen the plastic fail with the bearings still good).



Bill
 
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