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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
GL1200I final drive oil weight?

I used 85-140 is that going to cause premature ware?

I like to ride until it's in the 40's although it's in the 80's+ here for now.
I've been changing it cause it's dirty. I dumped it all while it was off thought about rinsing with K1 but did not. I used some sea foam oz or 2 changed twice then changed with 85-140 twice. That's what I am running now.

What will cause less wear 85-140 or 80w?
 

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We had differentials failing that called for 80-90.
The factory changed the specs for the gear oil to 85-140.
They didn't change the differentials, so it shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We had differentials failing that called for 80-90.
The factory changed the specs for the gear oil to 85-140.
They didn't change the differentials, so it shouldn't be a problem.
Thank you that's what I was looking for.
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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3,285 Posts
That oil should be dandy.
 

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1985 GL1200 A
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953 Posts
Smart move to clean things up running some SeaFoam in there for a time! I use Seafoam not just in my fuel regularly (every third tank or so a few ounces to prevent carb junk building up) but also in the crankcase (4-6oz for +/- 100 miles of road riding) and rear drive about the same, both before changing oils. Keeps things clean. In our vintage Wings, SLUDGE is the enemy!
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've been using that TC-W3 most tanks just a couple ounces. I've noticed a quieter engine and a more responsive throttle with that gasohol I usually run. I think the slides are sliding better.

I like the 1200. I've ridden many a bike, and worked on everyone of them. Some of them would have been better off if I had not worked on them although some had new life given to them.

I want to use this 1200 final drive as long as I can. If 85-140w will help then it's worth the extra time it takes to get it in there.

I'd one day (year or two) like to rebuild one from the frame up fixing the rust bar at the center stand, painting the frame and putting rust stopping oil inside the frame, a little powder coating, new rubber every wear, steal brake lines, air ride on board compressor, removing all Honda decals, and panting the Tupperware a light metal flake green. Dream BIG right. And maybe even some ground lights for ground effects that are wired to a relay hooked up to a radar detector so when I get hit with radar the lights light up.

I'll have to check and see if the last is legal here.

To much sea foam is bad for the plugs.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The first time I ran sea foam in the oil the valves started taping in less then a hundred mile. I ran TC-W3 in the crank case maybe 3 ounces and the clutch slipped at 5-6 grand So I changed the oil 4 times in the last 600 miles twice because of water once for TC-W3 and this time gas I used sea foam the first three times and gas this time hopefully last time for 3 thousand miles God willing. New head gaskets for the water problem, retorqued for the second water problem.

Anyway the oil was still black.
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have found that the 85-140 some times comes out the vent cap.

I've noticed it on the first ride after I change the oil.

I've also seen it leak when it gets colder than it was last time some came out the vent.

Other than that it seems fine.

I'll try not to over fill it next time by checking the level before I drain it.
 

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I use synthetic 75W gear oil in my Wings and shaft drive Hondas, funny thing is 11 of the 12 bikes I own are all driveshafts and I use the same oil in all.
Now thats for what i do and where I live, weekend doodling around usually single and no cross country touring. If it was in the desert I might add some Lucas oil stabilizer. basically its an improved STP that really clings to gears.

Ideal oil for rear gear sets is one extremely high in mineral content, when I was younger I remember what real mineral oil smelled like, like something that came out of a whales back end. There are some high tech gear oils on the market, especially racing gear lubes.
 

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MY 84 'wing... the pinion seal leaked and of course previous owner didn't check it or change it as far as I can tell so it probably ran ... 1/2 full???? (4.4 oz is "full"?) so I filled it up with a mix of 85w-140, ran it for a while, drained it then filled it again with a mix of 85w-140 and STP oil treatment. I ride mostly around town, HOT HOT here, by myself and the bike is at rated capacity with me on it. (yes, yes, I know "DIET AND EXERCISE, how hard can it be, sigh). I think there is quite a bit of "slop" in the rear end cuz it was run so low on gear oil... next gear oil change... 85w-140 gear oil, STP oil treatment and a few squirts of grease and then go riding to stir it all up. easier than replacing the pinion seal, just overfill the rear differential with clean THICK gear oil/STP/Grease as I wont ride when it is "cold"... (below...40)
 

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Just Winging It
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have found that the 85-140 some times comes out the vent cap.

I've noticed it on the first ride after I change the oil.

I've also seen it leak when it gets colder than it was last time some came out the vent.

Other than that it seems fine.

I'll try not to over fill it next time by checking the level before I drain it.
Apparently I over filled the final drive.
 
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