imported post
Well, firstly welcome to the forum.
I'm no good on 1200 maintenance so will leave that one for someone else.
Well, firstly welcome to the forum.
I'm no good on 1200 maintenance so will leave that one for someone else.
GL1200I Won't Turn Off
imported post
All,
Electrical problem somewhere in my 1984 GL1200I. Problem began when I was running the bike in my garage. Ran fine until it quit. It always seems that way, doesn't it.
The 30-amp fusable link was blown. I replaced it but every time I turned the key to the "on" position, I blew another link. I have installed a regular fuse holder with bayonet fuses now. Cheaper to replace fuses than fusable links.
No other fuses have blown.
In an attempt to isolate the problem to a bike component I disconnected or removed radios, voltmeter, all add-on lights, and even the headlight. I tested along the way to see if I could find the bad component. No joy. Still blowing 30 amp fuses.
I found the voltage regulator/rectifier plug melted around one of the prongs (the in-board green). The plug had a small spot where the plastic had melted and where it was clearly shorting to the frame/ground. I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier. I hard soldered it in instead of using the plug.
Now comes the good part. I hooked up the battery and the bike started right up just like new. I was really happy until I tried to turn the bike off. It would not turn off, except with the kill switch.
This is more fun than a root canal. I unplugged the ignition switch. When I hook up the battery, I get an oil pressure indicator light, and a tail light indicator light, and a neutral indicator light. I can also hit the starter button and the bike starts. It still won't turn off except with the kill switch. And this is with the ignition switch disconnected.
Does anyone know what component, when failed, would cause the bike to continue running even with out the ignition switch being plugged in?
Clearly I'm getting power when I should not, but I cannot find the short...so far.
I have stripped most of the wiring harness around the engine area and back to the starter solenoid to try and find a short. I have especially checked the three yellows coming off the stator. I have found no evidence of shorting in the harness itself.
I have checked the starter solenoid, the starter relay, and the starter button. All seem OK based on visual and ohm meter checks.
I am considering a part by part replacement program. First the ignition module then other stuff. I'm guessing at what to replace in what order.
I'd appreciate suggestions.
Thanks for reading this sad story and thanks in advance for any advice.
All,
Electrical problem somewhere in my 1984 GL1200I. Problem began when I was running the bike in my garage. Ran fine until it quit. It always seems that way, doesn't it.
The 30-amp fusable link was blown. I replaced it but every time I turned the key to the "on" position, I blew another link. I have installed a regular fuse holder with bayonet fuses now. Cheaper to replace fuses than fusable links.
No other fuses have blown.
In an attempt to isolate the problem to a bike component I disconnected or removed radios, voltmeter, all add-on lights, and even the headlight. I tested along the way to see if I could find the bad component. No joy. Still blowing 30 amp fuses.
I found the voltage regulator/rectifier plug melted around one of the prongs (the in-board green). The plug had a small spot where the plastic had melted and where it was clearly shorting to the frame/ground. I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier. I hard soldered it in instead of using the plug.
Now comes the good part. I hooked up the battery and the bike started right up just like new. I was really happy until I tried to turn the bike off. It would not turn off, except with the kill switch.
This is more fun than a root canal. I unplugged the ignition switch. When I hook up the battery, I get an oil pressure indicator light, and a tail light indicator light, and a neutral indicator light. I can also hit the starter button and the bike starts. It still won't turn off except with the kill switch. And this is with the ignition switch disconnected.
Does anyone know what component, when failed, would cause the bike to continue running even with out the ignition switch being plugged in?
Clearly I'm getting power when I should not, but I cannot find the short...so far.
I have stripped most of the wiring harness around the engine area and back to the starter solenoid to try and find a short. I have especially checked the three yellows coming off the stator. I have found no evidence of shorting in the harness itself.
I have checked the starter solenoid, the starter relay, and the starter button. All seem OK based on visual and ohm meter checks.
I am considering a part by part replacement program. First the ignition module then other stuff. I'm guessing at what to replace in what order.
I'd appreciate suggestions.
Thanks for reading this sad story and thanks in advance for any advice.
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Thanks for the welcome.
Hope there are experts out there that are smarter than me.
Thanks for the welcome.
Hope there are experts out there that are smarter than me.
imported post
Wow. It's just like talking about the weather. When it's cold we want it hot, when it's hot we wish for cooler weather. See lots of complaints about bikes not starting and here you are complaining you can't stop it!:cheeky1: Not sure I've heard of this before. If no one comes along to help you shortly try posting your problem on the Gl1200 page:
http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/index.php
But whatever you do, don't forget you came here first.
And, WELCOME to the forum.
Wow. It's just like talking about the weather. When it's cold we want it hot, when it's hot we wish for cooler weather. See lots of complaints about bikes not starting and here you are complaining you can't stop it!:cheeky1: Not sure I've heard of this before. If no one comes along to help you shortly try posting your problem on the Gl1200 page:
http://www.gl1200goldwings.com/index.php
But whatever you do, don't forget you came here first.
And, WELCOME to the forum.
imported post
First, welcome to the forum,
My first thought was ignition switch, probably a short in the switch or the wiring harness going to the switch. But since you've been messing with the switch, maybe not. Just my best guess at this point.
Second guess, and a regular problem with the GL12 is the big wire plug above the solenoid, but I think you said you've been in there too.
I wouldn't start replacing parts yet, though.There are a lot of people on this site withway moreelectrical knowledge than I have so don't get discouraged. They'll be on soon.
First, welcome to the forum,
My first thought was ignition switch, probably a short in the switch or the wiring harness going to the switch. But since you've been messing with the switch, maybe not. Just my best guess at this point.
Second guess, and a regular problem with the GL12 is the big wire plug above the solenoid, but I think you said you've been in there too.
I wouldn't start replacing parts yet, though.There are a lot of people on this site withway moreelectrical knowledge than I have so don't get discouraged. They'll be on soon.
imported post
In an attempt to quickly fix an annoying idiot light on my 86-I, I discovered that the fuse for the oil psi,neutral and tail lamp warning are one and the same. So it's obvious that you're getting power to the fuse block.
My Clymer book is shakey at best when it comes to wiring diagrams. But I would double-check all connections at your new regulator,(R/W>R) for example. You may also want to start looking for other shorts in connectors with a RED wire that "should" be fed from the main 30 amp fuse.
There is also a blocking diode that's supposed to prevent the bike from starting in gear with the clutch lever out. But my eyes can't tell if a back-feed is possible with this black/white diagram.(it's too small)
There are lots of good guys here with much better wiring prints, hang in there... :gunhead:
In an attempt to quickly fix an annoying idiot light on my 86-I, I discovered that the fuse for the oil psi,neutral and tail lamp warning are one and the same. So it's obvious that you're getting power to the fuse block.
My Clymer book is shakey at best when it comes to wiring diagrams. But I would double-check all connections at your new regulator,(R/W>R) for example. You may also want to start looking for other shorts in connectors with a RED wire that "should" be fed from the main 30 amp fuse.
There is also a blocking diode that's supposed to prevent the bike from starting in gear with the clutch lever out. But my eyes can't tell if a back-feed is possible with this black/white diagram.(it's too small)
There are lots of good guys here with much better wiring prints, hang in there... :gunhead:
imported post
Look carefully at the repair you made at the VR. If you got the black wire connected to the red/white wire it would cause that situation. The problem could possibly be in the VR you put on, never heard of it before but still possible. One thing you can do is disconnect the black wire to see if the problem goes away.
Look carefully at the repair you made at the VR. If you got the black wire connected to the red/white wire it would cause that situation. The problem could possibly be in the VR you put on, never heard of it before but still possible. One thing you can do is disconnect the black wire to see if the problem goes away.
imported post
I hate to be a sourpuss but you people really need to understand the difference between shorts, open and closed circuits. An electrical open circuit is a disconnected electrical circuit or a circuit that is off. A closed circuit is a complete circuit or a circuit that is on.
The short you people are constantly talking about melts wires, batteries and blows fuses every time if one is installed in that link of wire(s) that is shorted.
When you say that the bike won't shut off means you have an alternate source of power coming from somewhere else. Perhaps one of your hot wires off the ignition connected to an ACC wire powering your radio among a few other stuff.
What I might suggest is trying to see what is powered if you remove ALL of the fuses. Try that. See if anything still works. If it does, which I suspect it will, the fuses mean nothing for they will not work since they are bypassed.
I hate to be a sourpuss but you people really need to understand the difference between shorts, open and closed circuits. An electrical open circuit is a disconnected electrical circuit or a circuit that is off. A closed circuit is a complete circuit or a circuit that is on.
The short you people are constantly talking about melts wires, batteries and blows fuses every time if one is installed in that link of wire(s) that is shorted.
When you say that the bike won't shut off means you have an alternate source of power coming from somewhere else. Perhaps one of your hot wires off the ignition connected to an ACC wire powering your radio among a few other stuff.
What I might suggest is trying to see what is powered if you remove ALL of the fuses. Try that. See if anything still works. If it does, which I suspect it will, the fuses mean nothing for they will not work since they are bypassed.
imported post
All,
Thanks for all the input. I have unwrapped all the harness forward of the battery to check for shorts but have found none. I am still working it and will eventually find the problem. Right now, I suspect the right hand control unit, with the start button. Will check it out after work today. I'll also re-check the starter relay and soleloid. I'm not an electrical guru so progress is slow.
Does anyone know how to check the voltage regulator to see if it has an internal problem?
Thanks,
All,
Thanks for all the input. I have unwrapped all the harness forward of the battery to check for shorts but have found none. I am still working it and will eventually find the problem. Right now, I suspect the right hand control unit, with the start button. Will check it out after work today. I'll also re-check the starter relay and soleloid. I'm not an electrical guru so progress is slow.
Does anyone know how to check the voltage regulator to see if it has an internal problem?
Thanks,
imported post
It is not the right hand switches or the starter solenoid.
I already covered how to eliminate the VR in my previous post.
It is not the right hand switches or the starter solenoid.
I already covered how to eliminate the VR in my previous post.
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i think bike...and dennis is right. i also believe it t be a bad key switch
mark:waving:
i think bike...and dennis is right. i also believe it t be a bad key switch
mark:waving:
imported post
Mark,
If the key switch were plugged in, I might agree. The thing keeps running with the key switch completely disconnected.
I need help from someone smarter than me. Battery is not installed. I checked continuity at the key switch plug that connects to the harness. I am getting continuity between the red and black wires at the plug. Is continuity between these wires good or bad?
Mark,
If the key switch were plugged in, I might agree. The thing keeps running with the key switch completely disconnected.
I need help from someone smarter than me. Battery is not installed. I checked continuity at the key switch plug that connects to the harness. I am getting continuity between the red and black wires at the plug. Is continuity between these wires good or bad?
imported post
:baffled: Ignored I guess.
:baffled: Ignored I guess.
imported post
DaveO430 wrote:
:waving:agarcia, Welcome to the Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum from North Central Texas!
See if I understand this????
1. Blowing 30 Amp fusible link.
2. Replaced the 30 Amp fusible link with a bayonet type 30 amp fuse and fuse holder. Still blowing fuse.
3. Replaced Voltage Regulator/Rectifier; hardwired instead of using the connector. 30 amp fuse not blowing and engine starts and runs.
4. Can't stop running engine with the Ignition Switch in OFF position and/or Ignition Switch unplugged/disconnected. Engine will cut off with the Run/Kill Switch.
My take. Dave0430 covered it in the # 7 post above.
I would recheck the hardwiring of the connector to the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier. It appears that one of the Red/White wires (two at the connector) are connected to the Black wire. The Red/White wires are hot, 12 Volts present at all times, directly from the 30 amp fuse. The Black wire is the Ignition wiring from the Ignition Switch and is routed toseveral other places.
Summary: Fuse blows until replace Voltage Regulator/Rectifier and rewire of connector, then a new problem of engine not shutting down with the Ignition Switch/Ignition Switch disconnected.
DaveO430 wrote:
Hang in there Dave0430, you give some great information on this forum andare helpinga lot of people solve their problems. It may be that agarcia has unintentionally hit the Ignore Member. Duh, I have done this several times when using my wheel on the mouse and had to go to my account to clear the Ignore List.:cooldevil::baffled: Ignored I guess.
:waving:agarcia, Welcome to the Worlds Greatest Goldwing Forum from North Central Texas!
See if I understand this????
1. Blowing 30 Amp fusible link.
2. Replaced the 30 Amp fusible link with a bayonet type 30 amp fuse and fuse holder. Still blowing fuse.
3. Replaced Voltage Regulator/Rectifier; hardwired instead of using the connector. 30 amp fuse not blowing and engine starts and runs.
4. Can't stop running engine with the Ignition Switch in OFF position and/or Ignition Switch unplugged/disconnected. Engine will cut off with the Run/Kill Switch.
My take. Dave0430 covered it in the # 7 post above.
I would recheck the hardwiring of the connector to the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier. It appears that one of the Red/White wires (two at the connector) are connected to the Black wire. The Red/White wires are hot, 12 Volts present at all times, directly from the 30 amp fuse. The Black wire is the Ignition wiring from the Ignition Switch and is routed toseveral other places.
Summary: Fuse blows until replace Voltage Regulator/Rectifier and rewire of connector, then a new problem of engine not shutting down with the Ignition Switch/Ignition Switch disconnected.
imported post
All,
I did not intent to ignore anyone. I'm new and did not even know that an ignore button was on the screen.
Thanks for the great advice. I'll re-check connections again, but red wires are soldered to red wires. I'll check voltage from the two reds to confirm they are 12v.
All,
I did not intent to ignore anyone. I'm new and did not even know that an ignore button was on the screen.
Thanks for the great advice. I'll re-check connections again, but red wires are soldered to red wires. I'll check voltage from the two reds to confirm they are 12v.
imported post
I'd say it's your voltage regulator wiring, a hot from the keyed switch runs to it or at least on my 82 it does.
I'm pretty sure yours does too.
look at your shop manual to trace the hot lead down to the VR.
I'd say it's your voltage regulator wiring, a hot from the keyed switch runs to it or at least on my 82 it does.
I'm pretty sure yours does too.
look at your shop manual to trace the hot lead down to the VR.
imported post
agarcia wrote:
agarcia wrote:
If the plug was melted, it certainly is possible that the wires got hot enough to melt the covering down the line and melt the wires together.I found the voltage regulator/rectifier plug melted around one of the prongs (the in-board green). The plug had a small spot where the plastic had melted and where it was clearly shorting to the frame/ground. I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier. I hard soldered it in instead of using the plug.
imported post
All,
Dave especially,
I checked and tested the VR as you suggested. All soldered wires connected properly to matching colors. I cut the black wire at the solder joint.
Bike started properly and turned off properly. Good news except for that cut black wire off the VR.
Tested voltage at both red wires (still soldered to the red wires off the wire harness). Got 12V on both. Tested black coming off the regulator (not connected to anything). Got 12V also.
Is this bad?
All,
Dave especially,
I checked and tested the VR as you suggested. All soldered wires connected properly to matching colors. I cut the black wire at the solder joint.
Bike started properly and turned off properly. Good news except for that cut black wire off the VR.
Tested voltage at both red wires (still soldered to the red wires off the wire harness). Got 12V on both. Tested black coming off the regulator (not connected to anything). Got 12V also.
Is this bad?
imported post
That tells me there is an internal problem in the regulator. If you still have the original and can reconnect it and try it that should confirm my suspicion. You can't leave the black wire disconnected, it is what gives the VR feedback on the state of the battery charge and will cause it to overcharge.
That tells me there is an internal problem in the regulator. If you still have the original and can reconnect it and try it that should confirm my suspicion. You can't leave the black wire disconnected, it is what gives the VR feedback on the state of the battery charge and will cause it to overcharge.
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