imported post
All,
Electrical problem somewhere in my 1984 GL1200I. Problem began when I was running the bike in my garage. Ran fine until it quit. It always seems that way, doesn't it.
The 30-amp fusable link was blown. I replaced it but every time I turned the key to the "on" position, I blew another link. I have installed a regular fuse holder with bayonet fuses now. Cheaper to replace fuses than fusable links.
No other fuses have blown.
In an attempt to isolate the problem to a bike component I disconnected or removed radios, voltmeter, all add-on lights, and even the headlight. I tested along the way to see if I could find the bad component. No joy. Still blowing 30 amp fuses.
I found the voltage regulator/rectifier plug melted around one of the prongs (the in-board green). The plug had a small spot where the plastic had melted and where it was clearly shorting to the frame/ground. I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier. I hard soldered it in instead of using the plug.
Now comes the good part. I hooked up the battery and the bike started right up just like new. I was really happy until I tried to turn the bike off. It would not turn off, except with the kill switch.
This is more fun than a root canal. I unplugged the ignition switch. When I hook up the battery, I get an oil pressure indicator light, and a tail light indicator light, and a neutral indicator light. I can also hit the starter button and the bike starts. It still won't turn off except with the kill switch. And this is with the ignition switch disconnected.
Does anyone know what component, when failed, would cause the bike to continue running even with out the ignition switch being plugged in?
Clearly I'm getting power when I should not, but I cannot find the short...so far.
I have stripped most of the wiring harness around the engine area and back to the starter solenoid to try and find a short. I have especially checked the three yellows coming off the stator. I have found no evidence of shorting in the harness itself.
I have checked the starter solenoid, the starter relay, and the starter button. All seem OK based on visual and ohm meter checks.
I am considering a part by part replacement program. First the ignition module then other stuff. I'm guessing at what to replace in what order.
I'd appreciate suggestions.
Thanks for reading this sad story and thanks in advance for any advice.
All,
Electrical problem somewhere in my 1984 GL1200I. Problem began when I was running the bike in my garage. Ran fine until it quit. It always seems that way, doesn't it.
The 30-amp fusable link was blown. I replaced it but every time I turned the key to the "on" position, I blew another link. I have installed a regular fuse holder with bayonet fuses now. Cheaper to replace fuses than fusable links.
No other fuses have blown.
In an attempt to isolate the problem to a bike component I disconnected or removed radios, voltmeter, all add-on lights, and even the headlight. I tested along the way to see if I could find the bad component. No joy. Still blowing 30 amp fuses.
I found the voltage regulator/rectifier plug melted around one of the prongs (the in-board green). The plug had a small spot where the plastic had melted and where it was clearly shorting to the frame/ground. I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier. I hard soldered it in instead of using the plug.
Now comes the good part. I hooked up the battery and the bike started right up just like new. I was really happy until I tried to turn the bike off. It would not turn off, except with the kill switch.
This is more fun than a root canal. I unplugged the ignition switch. When I hook up the battery, I get an oil pressure indicator light, and a tail light indicator light, and a neutral indicator light. I can also hit the starter button and the bike starts. It still won't turn off except with the kill switch. And this is with the ignition switch disconnected.
Does anyone know what component, when failed, would cause the bike to continue running even with out the ignition switch being plugged in?
Clearly I'm getting power when I should not, but I cannot find the short...so far.
I have stripped most of the wiring harness around the engine area and back to the starter solenoid to try and find a short. I have especially checked the three yellows coming off the stator. I have found no evidence of shorting in the harness itself.
I have checked the starter solenoid, the starter relay, and the starter button. All seem OK based on visual and ohm meter checks.
I am considering a part by part replacement program. First the ignition module then other stuff. I'm guessing at what to replace in what order.
I'd appreciate suggestions.
Thanks for reading this sad story and thanks in advance for any advice.