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Okay gang,

I posted before about an electrical drain on my wing. I said the battery went dead after sitting over the weekend. (It is a brand new battery and had a full charge).:( I took the battery out and have it on a tricle charger bringing itback up. Someone suggested that I could find the draw that drained the battery by hooking it up (fully charged) to a volt meter and reading the increase when I pulled the individual fuses. That sounded good except on the 85 ltd edition wing, there is a gang plug next to the battery but I did not find a single fuse fuse box.:? I also looked for directconnections to the batteryforadd-onaccessories. I found none. Finally, as I continued to read through the forum, I found a post that talked about the front running lights along the head light not working. I too am having this problem and an wondering if there might be a connection.:baffled: I have limited electrical knowledge (obviously) and therefore the request for help with my problem. I expect to go home to a fully charged battery this afternoon and intend to put it back in the bike. Where should I gofrom there?:stumped: v_man_1
 

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I dont know were they are fitted on the 1200 but there not beside the battery on the 1500 they are on the far side of the bike iam sure some one will be along soon and tell you were
 

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:)Agnogel,
I found the fuse box on the 1200 ltd. It is under the computer. I full charged the battery, put it back in the bike, started it up it ran fine. The on board volt meter indicates the unit is being charged when running. (the voltage increases when the rpms increase). After testing this, I shut her down and pulled each fuse individually to check them. They all appear to be good. I still have no running lights and I do not know if the battery is being drained when sitting. I put the trickle charger on it to maintain the charge and will probably do so nightly until this weekend when I can take the time to do more testing. Because the fuses are the newer style plug in instead of the older glass tube style, it is difficult to get the volt meter on the ends while the fuse is in place. Perhaps pulling the fuse and using the smart light will do the trick. Along with the plug in fuses in the bar there are about five of the square box style fuses. I guess I will have to pull these too and check to see if they are the problem. Again thanks for your continuing input. I appreciate all the info and hope I will get to the bottom of this. v_man_1:gunhead:
 

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you need to put the volt meter across the battery + to + - to - and then pull the fusesjust one thing when you pull the key out of the ignation are you sure its in the off position and not the park witch leaves the running lights on
 

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:(Oh boy, Oh boy,

I rode my bike to work yesterday morning as the trickle charer brought the battery charge to 12.5 v. She started right up so I put the covers on and rode her to school in the a.m. I finished classes and coaching at about 2:30, had an afternoon (3:30) Dr's appointment. I went out and put the key in and turned her (or should I say tried to) over and found the battery was down below 10v again. Fortunately one of the other teachers here also rides and carries a pair of jumper cables. I jumped her, rode her home (about 2 miles) and shut her down to open the garage door. When I tried to restart her, it was a no go. So... here I am back to square one. There is obviously an unidentified drain on the battery which now is strong enough to wipe the needed charge for starting within a 6 to 8 hour period. She's now back in the garage on the trickle charger and will stay there until Saturday when I get a chance to research some more. Fortunately for me, I have not sold my Silverwing 600 scooter yet and can use it as a back-up until I get this problem solved. Any helpful suggestions will be greatly appreciated. For those of you that are not aware, my bike is a 1985 Goldwing, Limited Edition with electronic fuel injection. The running lights in front do not function and I thought this might be the culprit but, again, I have not checked that out yet.:?

Agnogel, I got your message about making sure it was off instead of in park but the running lights are not working anyway. (Would there still be a draw if they are not functioning)? Thanks too for the volt meter procedure update. I will try to work with that on Saturday. I think I am also going to have to get some info on the box style fuses that run along side of the fuse panel (how to pull them) as they too could be responsible.

Thanks in advance to anyone and everyone that takes the time to read and respond to this as I can use all suggestions. For me, electrical can be a nightmare. It is not my forte'. v_man_1:waving:
 

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Get a good digital volt meter. disconnect your ground cable from your battery. Set the meter for Ma ( milliamps ) and put it in line positive to the battery ground and negative to the ground cable. You now have an amp meter in series with your battery. You should read the amperage flow to ground that is draining your battery. While you have the meter hooked up remove fuses one at a time until you either run out of fuses or loose the amperage flow to ground. When the amps stop flowing you have found the bad circuit. Now ask someone how to fix that circuit. If you never loose the amperage flow to ground then you have an unfused circuit causing the problem. I had a bad diode in my alternator draining mine. Just keep digging something will turn up.
 

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Olegrummpy,

Thanks for the quick and articulate response. It is much the same as the one I received from Agnogel but a little more precise and makes the job aheada lot clearer. I will ask you because it sounds like you would know, do you know how the box style fuses come out from along the side of the fuse bank. I tried just pulling on them but it appears there is some other tecnique involved or maybe I was afraid of breaking something. v_man_1
 

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You may want to set your meter to a higher current range to start with. Milli-amps range may blow the fuse in the meter, or worse, if your current draw is several amps or more.

Also, the trip meter draws some, so disconnect it while t-shooting. Also, pull the radio out, and see if that makes a huge difference. The relay in the power amp may be stuck, causing quite a draw. Just some ideas.
 

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Oregonwinger,

Thanks for the new insight. I will keep it in mind but I am thinking the trip meter should not be enough draw to drain the battery (brand new) in a 6 to 8 hour period. Also, I really don't want to pull the radio unless it is absolutely necessary as doing so is a pain in the arse. As it is, the radio is linked through the ignition and turns on/off with the key. It it were the culprit, wouldn't it continue to play when the bike is turned off? Again, thanks for the look and the thoughts. V_man_1
 

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I'm just saying that the trip puter will draw some, while you're t-shooting, so it's best to unplug it temporarily. It will drain the battery very low in a few weeks, tho. Good luck with chasing that down. Just do it one step at a time, and you'll find it.
 

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:)Thanks Bob. I now need to understand how to unplug it as it is part of the onboard computer. Should I check the fuse first and then pull it while I check the others or is their a plug in the computer that separates these units? v_man_1
 

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Just pull the 2 plugs on the bottom of trip computer. everything will still operate normally. You are aware that the engine computer (ecu) is under the trunk. The trip computer has nothing to do with the engine, other than some monitoring features.

You probably ought to pull the faux tank, and check the connectors on the stator regulator for melt-down, and be sure to check the connector at front of battery for melt-down, or at minimum, for obvious heating.
 

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Got home this last night and check the bike. I am not sure how it happened but the security sensor was on (red lights flashing on the dash) so I was expecting the battery to be down again even with the trickle charger running. Hurray, Hurray, I put the tester on the batter and it showed 12.8 and still charging (reflected by another red light on the charger which goes green when it is totally charged. Since it is in the bike and I am not riding until I get a chance to go through it tomorrow, I will leave the charger on all day today and tonight and hopefully it will reach full charge for testing tomorrow.
A big thanks to everyone that has replied so far and, as I said before, I appreciate all input as it will help me along the way. Many of you have long years of experience with wings. Although I have over forty years of bike riding experience, this is my first wing (and first really big bike). Your knowledge and experience are invaluable tools for my learning curve. Though I have turned wrenchs on autos, I never worked on any of my bikes and as you know, they are a completely different annimal (the bigger, the badder and more complicated). With that in mind, when you make suggesting about doing work, you might want to lead me down the straight and narrow path as if you are speaking to a complete novice. I will not feel offended but rather appreciate the coaching you can give. Again, thanks in advance for everything v_man_1
 

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The radio should not be that hard to pull out. Just insert the key in the slot to the right of the radio, turn the key and pull the radio out while holding the key turned to the right.
 

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:shock:Just goes to show how ignorant I really am. Thanks for the info. I always thought that key hole had something to do with the volt meter. That makes for a really easy fix. Thanks:)v_man_1
 

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You're not ignorant, just learning!!!!!! Have some Mana!! :goofygrin:
 

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:)Ok, teach me more. Do you know the procedure for pulling the square style fuses along the side of the bar under the computer. Maybe I need to pull harder but they didn't seem to want to come out and I didn't want to do damage by missing something and breaking it. v_man_1:weightlifter:
 

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The fuse box on the LTD holds both relays and small fuses (I think called blade fuses). To pull the fuses I use a small pair of needle nose pliers. Unless you squeeze so hard as to break the plastic top, there is nothing to worry about in pulling them out. BTW, what type of warning lights were you referring to? I don't think mine has warning lights, unless you are talking about the hazard flashers. Keep working; you have a great ride there...

HTH

JimC in NC (USA)
 

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v_man1.

Look into the acessories, and make sure that any 12 volt systens are hooked to 12 volt fuses. If anyt 12 volt (Like cigarette lighter) is put with another acessory on the same termiinal, it will cause the dfuse to blow., I found this out when I rewired my Wing the other day, and I put the CB and Cigarette lighter together, and it blew the 5amp acessory light. I separated them, and it is ok now.

You can also go to Auto Zone, and het a 12 volt "Bar" that you can mount on the outside of your battery, and run all of the 12 volt acessories from there, and bypass anything that may be causing the 5 volt fuse to blow.

Hop this helps,

Nightrider1

v_man_1 wrote:
Okay gang,

I posted before about an electrical drain on my wing. I said the battery went dead after sitting over the weekend. (It is a brand new battery and had a full charge).:( I took the battery out and have it on a tricle charger bringing itback up. Someone suggested that I could find the draw that drained the battery by hooking it up (fully charged) to a volt meter and reading the increase when I pulled the individual fuses. That sounded good except on the 85 ltd edition wing, there is a gang plug next to the battery but I did not find a single fuse fuse box.:? I also looked for directconnections to the batteryforadd-onaccessories. I found none. Finally, as I continued to read through the forum, I found a post that talked about the front running lights along the head light not working. I too am having this problem and an wondering if there might be a connection.:baffled: I have limited electrical knowledge (obviously) and therefore the request for help with my problem. I expect to go home to a fully charged battery this afternoon and intend to put it back in the bike. Where should I gofrom there?:stumped: v_man_1
 

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Jim,
I was referring to the relay boxes. Yes, I too use a pair of needle nose to pull the blade style fuses. I was trying to pull those box style relays along the side and I could not tell if there was a clip holding them in place or not. As you know, getting to the fuse box under the computer does create a little difficulty. I have pulled relay boxes in my RV and automobiles and have found some with a pinch clip and others that just pulled out. As I am not sure which type is found on the bike, I did not want to do damage while figuring it out. Thought it would be better to ask.
As far as the security system, I do not know whether it is OEM or an aftermarket add-on. It disables the ignition switch and has two little red lights that flash when it is on. I have a wireless switch on my keyring that turns it off and on. Interestingly, when I disconnect and reconnect the battery it not only enables the system causing the lights to flash, it also causes the horn to go on and off in sync with the flashing lights. I must say, anyone trying to mess with it without the button to switch it of would be in for a rude surprise.
There is no mention of the system in the owners manual so I suspect it is aftermarket but the lights look to be a normal part of the dash so I am not sure. I hope like heck that this is not the culprit that is causing my problems as I kind of like the security that it provides. That along with locking the steering would make it very difficult for someone to get off with it. And, as you said, and I concur, its a real nice ride. I've only put a couple thousand on it and it still has less than 30,000 original miles on it and I absolutely love it. I look forward to some long distance cruising this summer and want everything to be in tip-top shape by then. Thanks for the input and let me know about those relays if you know. v_man_1
 
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