[Ronniels]

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When I purchased thie 85 LE the high beam was burnt out. Would idle fine. A couple of days later the low beam popped.

Bought a new bulb today, bike was running as I was installing the bulb. Plugged it in and the bike died.

High or Low beam, will not idle. Will run fine if holding the accelerator.

Fully charged battery, bike is charging.

The only thing I have touched electrically was before I changed the bulb I ran a ground cable from one of the bolts on the rectifier to the frame. A couple of times while at high RPM's the volt meter next to the stereo showed 16.0 +

And I found a couple of post saying check grouind, so I made sure surfaces were clean and added a cable to just one bolt.

Bike idled fine after the ground before installing the bulb.



Also, where is this 5amp fuse that is supposed to be under the left pocket? I cannot find a place for it. But there is a little pocket with a spare 5 amp.



Thanks!

 

[neoracer]

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if the voltmeter showed 16+ volts sounds like the rectifier may be bad

the fuse in the left pocket is probably 7A and is there and if you have a cb will probably require you to partially remove it to find it in the rat's nest of wires,if that fuse has blown you will probably have lost the travel computer readouts

 

[Lightin]

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Yep,suspect on the 16+ volts meansregulator is wide open thats to high.

 

[wingsam41]

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From what I read in your post sounds like all was well except for intermittent high charging and the bike dying occurred only after addind the ground. Undo the additional ground first (put it back to how it was)and see if dying problem/headlight issue is fixed. If so and you still see 16v+ then as Earl (neoracer) said you likely have a faulty regulator. What is the condition of the 3 yellow stator wires. Do they still have the white plastic connectors inline between the stator and the v. regulator. From where they emerge from the back of the stator the stock setup is that they go to a connector frame mounted under side cover just forward of the battery. From there the 3 wires enter the main harness and emerge up top by the regulator where there are 2 more connectors. These wire connectors need to be bypassed or any replacement regulator you install will be subjected to damage as well. It is important to use the correct OEM or Shindegen regulator as well. First answer those questions and we can advise from there.
Other thoughts that come to mind for the dying out issue are a faulty main fuse or main ground but start by removing your "added" ground 1st.

 

[wilf]

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Okay what i see here is a major mistake by you. Changing the headlight with the bike running. I'm thinking that sent a power surge thowout the bike.Perhaps zapping eletronic's. I think LTD's are fuel injected so may have a computer as well as spark igntors and other electonics. you will have to test these sepertaly get a good shop manual
Wilf

 

[machinehead]

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Ditto Wingsam , put things back as they where and test.
As wilf said , have no idea why you would replace anything electrical with the bike running , not a good idea as any small mistake or short could cause bad things to happen.
Welcome to the forum Ronniels , keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Ronniels]

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Hmmm...ok, going to unplug the headlight and the extra ground wire. The idle issue is something it was doing 1st couple of days as well. Before the 1st bulb popped. So I believe this is a problem that came with the bike. Would not idle below 780 RPM's and that is what it is doing now. Only idles at 800 and up. Without lightbulb, idles about 720 to 780 after warm.
The bike did run great with the new ground and was charging fine.
The reg. has been replaced and the factory yellow wires were completely replaced from the reg to where they enter into the engine.
Believe I will need to pull the fairing...I have looked all around that nest of wires on the left. No fuse...just the spares. Can not even find a place where a fuse would even go. No loose plugs. No loose wires. But will find out when I pull the fairing. Installing timing belts and fixing a leaky valve cover gasket next week.

 

[Ronniels]

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Hmmm...ok, going to unplug the headlight and the extra ground wire. The idle issue is something it was doing 1st couple of days as well. Before the 1st bulb popped. So I believe this is a problem that came with the bike. Would not idle below 780 RPM's and that is what it is doing now. Only idles at 800 and up. Without lightbulb, idles about 720 to 780 after warm.
The bike did run great with the new ground and was charging fine.
The reg. has been replaced and the factory yellow wires were completely replaced from the reg to where they enter into the engine.
Believe I will need to pull the fairing...I have looked all around that nest of wires on the left. No fuse...just the spares. Can not even find a place where a fuse would even go. No loose plugs. No loose wires. But will find out when I pull the fairing. Installing timing belts and fixing a leaky valve cover gasket next week.

 

[wingsam41]

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Ronniels wrote:

Hmmm...ok, going to unplug the headlight and the extra ground wire. The idle issue is something it was doing 1st couple of days as well. Before the 1st bulb popped. So I believe this is a problem that came with the bike. Would not idle below 780 RPM's and that is what it is doing now. Only idles at 800 and up. Without lightbulb, idles about 720 to 780 after warm.
The bike did run great with the new ground and was charging fine.
The reg. has been replaced and the factory yellow wires were completely replaced from the reg to where they enter into the engine.
Believe I will need to pull the fairing...I have looked all around that nest of wires on the left. No fuse...just the spares. Can not even find a place where a fuse would even go. No loose plugs. No loose wires. But will find out when I pull the fairing. Installing timing belts and fixing a leaky valve cover gasket next week.

Hang on there...that's a little different fom your 1st description. In first post you gave the impression that the dying out started after the light bulb replacement. The bike's idle should be 1000 RPM + or - 100RPM. Or 900-1100 RPM. Check the label near the brake foot pedal on the lower frame shows idle spec in neutral.Could be your idle is set too low as well.

Bikes main 30 amp fuse is located under a cover on the starter solenoid. It is a small metal fusible link commonly referred to as a dogbone. Personally I think it looks like a tiny wrench. They can corrode, fall apart or develop hairline cracks. That is the OEM setup. Many bikes have this original fuse bypassed with an inline fuse holder. The other issue is the 4 wire plug that plugs into the solenoid.

 

[DaveO430]

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The ground to the regulator body did nothing good or bad, the body of the regulator is isolated. The green wires coming out of the regulator need to be grounded well or it will overcharge. Also this could be the problem with it not idling. If the entire electrical system is not grounded well all kinds of strange things can happen.

 

[Ronniels]

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Yeah, didn't mention the initial idling issue in first post because I had attributed that to old gas or trash in tank.
So, had figured it was a coincedence. Did not think it could involve the light.
I had put in STP fuel cleaner at that point.
Now when I was doing the headlight, I had just added more Seafoam to the fuel tank. So if I have too high of a concentratio of Seafoam vs. Fuel that could also effect the idle.

So alot of my issues could just be coincedental....Fuel vs. Electrical... I will keep checking and cleaning connections. While letting this tank of fuel run and will fill up with just straight gasoline and see what changes.
Bike has been running better and starting easier each day.

The improvements could be cleaning electrical items or cleaning fuel system. Part of the complication of repairing two systems at once.

Going to remove that ground since I guess it does nothing helpful and will check the green wires again.

As for the overcharging, it is not every time I ride. And only does it for 10 seconds or so and stopped as soon as I turn something on (radio, CB, signal light, etc.) and goes down to around 14.2 when it mellows out.
Also, this started after the headlight burnt out...and is only when I have done high RPM's.
Plus, have not felt the reg get hot when this is happening and no heat damage on any of the reg wires.



Everyone..Thanks for the ongoing help and advice!

 

[wilf]

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A lot to swallow there Ronniels.I'd set the idle to around 950rpm by the bike tack that may or may not be close to the real rpm as the tack's can be off quite a bit. I'm assumming the ltd is injected and that is why its running as well as it does. seems to me if it where a carbed bike the carbs would need work.
And when doing trouble shooting it's best to work on one thing at a time see what effects your work has done like say working on igniton wires. go from the coils to thesparkplugs and meassure the resistance of all the parts seperat and together. then change out the wires boots and plugs check resistance and test ride
wilf

 

[DaveO430]

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Ronniels wrote:

Plus, have not felt the reg get hot when this is happening and no heat damage on any of the reg wires.

That is another symptom of bad ground. The regulator should get hot as it dissapates the extra current produced by the stator to ground.

 

[roscoepc]

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Ronniels wrote:

As for the overcharging, it is not every time I ride. And only does it for 10 seconds or so and stopped as soon as I turn something on (radio, CB, signal light, etc.) and goes down to around 14.2 when it mellows out.
Also, this started after the headlight burnt out...and is only when I have done high RPM's.

One thing you need to remember is the charging voltage should NEVER go over 14.5vdc!!! If it does you have a problem that needs to be addressed immediatly if not sooner as one thing that will happen is you'll cook the battery. other thing's that can happen is frying some of the more sensitive electronics like the CFI computer etc.....



Other than checking the ground's you need to check the voltage reference wire for a good connection and steady input to the regulator aslow voltage therewill make the bike overcharge also! I believe it's the black wire....



I believe you also posted that the regulator was changed out... A question I have to ask is what brand was used as a replacement?? If it was something other than the OEM Shindengen unit that might be 99.9% of your problem as aftermarket regulators such as Electrix, Electrosport, etc., just don't hold up and last!!!



Check and let us know what you've got on there!!

 

[Ronniels]

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Keep in mind that these #'s are based on the OEM meter. Which when I check with one of my handhelds it is always 1.0 to 2.5 volts off.

O.K., off the reg, black, red and green wires go into a plug, then it gets tight past that. Do these 3 green wires go straight to ground? If so, can I just cut them and ground them to the frame?

And when I said it does not get hot...I mean no extreme overheating hot. Not non-functioning no heat. Sorry about the mis-understanding.

ALSO: Battery is not getting hotand is not showing an overcharge when checked during and immediately after bike shows overcharge...so factory meter may be toast anyway. I'll hook up a handheld and go for a ride and verify.



Not sure of brand, just found the installation instructions in the trunk when I bought the bike and the wires and bolts are new and shiny compared to anything else near it. So may have 5 miles on it (before me) and may have 1,000 or more. And the instruction are on a grren paper that does not appear to have any age to it either. No fading, no moisture damage, crisp and new looking. And this is with the bike sitting a year before me.

 

[Ronniels]

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I don't know if this could be a clue or just a seperate issue. But the RUN/STOP switch next to the accelerator does not shut the engine off. Only by using the key.
I know on my VTX I have been told by multiple sources nerver to use the switch except emergencies. At least on the 1800's they have a tendency to short out quite easily.
Info came from dealer as well as multiple postings on the VTX forums.

 

[Ronniels]

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Coupler for reg into harness...the black wire is loose on bike harness side. So fixing that. I guess that is a possible intermittent issue with voltage. Vibration makes contact...breaks contact.
I am attaching a photo of where I assume the 7.5 amp fuse should be...I have the little pocket with a apare 7.5 But do not see one plugged in anywhere...please advise on that if possible.
Also, checking fuses and comparing to charts. The 10 amp Meter and Ignition fuses and the 15 amp Tail and Cornering light fuse. Had all 3 been replaced with 30 amp. Sonce these have not popped yet since I installed correct ones, (20 minutes ago) I am assuming they were put in as a last resort spare and forgotten about.

A little extra history on this bike. Owners Manual has every oil change, tire change, etc. listed from original owner. He even commented on amount of tire wear and condition of plugs when removed.
He changed the oil every 2100 miles. Replaced tires when below 75% tread. Changed plugs every 2nd oil change. According to receipts, All maintenance except tires were done by Honda dealer. All accessories on the bike are genuine Honda except the floorboards. Even has an Altimeter that is from Honda.
Has 108,068k now...I did 120 of those in last couple of days. So do not know much of whenever he sold it (98 or 99k) until 107k
Last owner had it for 3 years, got in to some money problems. Borrowed from guy I bought it from. It sat in storage for one year, when loan was not paid he sold it to me.

I have new timing belts, NGK iridium plugs, NGK resistors and new wires ready to install. Just not changing plugs until I have ran all the cleaning junk through the fuel system. Also need to order the gasket now that I have tracked the oil seepage.

How do I add a photo?

 

[Ronniels]

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Found Rec/Reg info...2 months old, special ordered from from ACTION HONDA and sold through Rick's Motorsport Electric's, Inc.

 

[DaveO430]

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Ronniels wrote:

I don't know if this could be a clue or just a seperate issue. But the RUN/STOP switch next to the accelerator does not shut the engine off. Only by using the key.
I know on my VTX I have been told by multiple sources nerver to use the switch except emergencies. At least on the 1800's they have a tendency to short out quite easily.
Info came from dealer as well as multiple postings on the VTX forums.

Separate issue, it probably went bad and was bypassed, which is what I would do also. The darn things do nothing for me but make me curse. :lash: