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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
First, Moderators if this post is out of place or not beneficial feel FREE to delete it.

I have read a lot regarding starting issues. Sometimes it helps to know the voltage flow for various circuits.

GL1500 Main Fuse A (30-Amp) (1993 - 2000)

1. It is located at the starter relay A and gets voltage directly from the positive battery
terminal.

2. Provides voltage (red wire) to the #13 “5-amp” back-up (memory) fuse located in the
relay box.

3. Provides voltage (red wire) to the ignition switch.

4. The ignition switch provides voltage (black wire) to the # 11 ignition/cruise (15-amp)
fuse.

5. The # 11 ignition/cruise (15-amp) fuse provides voltage (white wire) to the # 6
ignition/cruise relay.

6. The # 6 ignition/cruise relay provides voltage (black/light green wire) to the
engine shut-off (kill) and starter/reverse switches.

Special Note: The Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) provides the ground to activate the # 6
ignition/cruise relay.

If you have input voltage but no output voltage from the # 6
ignition/cruise relay (and the relay and contacts are good), the Bank
Angle Sensor (BAS) is bad.

The BAS can be bypassed (for testing only) by jumping across the
red/white and green wires.

7. The engine shut-off (kill) switch provides voltage (black/white wire) to the ignition
coils and ECM.

8. The starter/reverse switch provides voltage (yellow/red wire) to trigger the coil in the
starter relay switch A.

9. The starter relay switch A provides voltage to two locations:

a. The starter relay switch B coil (to trigger/close the relay).

Note: This is a Black wire, it goes through a splice and becomes a Red wire,
then goes through a C312 connector (6-pin white under the seat) to a 5-
amp “in-line fuse B” located to the left of the battery in a black boot.
Then becomes a Yellow/Red wire and connects to the starter relay
switch B (to trigger/close the relay).

b. The starter relay switch B (main input). This is a large (battery type) cable.
10. The starter relay switch B (once activated) provides voltage to the starter motor.


The C-312 connector (6-pin white under the seat) has the following six (6) wires:

1. Red (Connects to the 5-amp in-line fuse)
2. Orange
3. Gray
4. Yellow
5. White
6. White/Blue

Note: If the “Red” wire has voltage with the ignition switch on and the starter switch
pressed, the “starter relay switch A” is good.

I would check the 5-amp in-line fuse next (before checking the starter relay switch
B and starter motor).
 

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Good job researching all this and well written also.
Thanks David.
 

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DBohrer:
Thanks for the excellent information. Sorry to barge in, but you sound like you know the electrical system like the back of your hand.

My '89 GL1500 has an odd starting issue. I believe it is electrical. I turn on the ignition switch and press the starter button. The engine cranks over nicely, but it doesn't fire up until I release the starter button. Therefore if I crank it for 2 seconds, then release the button it starts. OR if I let it crank for 5 seconds or even longer, it only fires when I release the button. Not always, but usually.

My theory is that there is insufficient voltage getting to the coils while the starter motor is cranking. Then when the cranking stops, boom it fires up. Is there some circuit or relay that is failing to supply voltage to the coils?

I did a ride a while back; stopped and shut the ignition switch off; accidentally hit the kill switch when removing my hands from the handlebars, without realizing it. When I came back later, ready to ride, I cranked the bike until the battery was run down. Then discovered the damn switch being off. Arrrrrghhhh!!!! Push started the bike, and it fired off immediately, even with the battery very low. Does this have anything to do with the above delimma. I was surprised at how quickly the bike started. Of course the starter motor was not being used.

Any ideas? Thank you so much.
 

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Bill,

Dennis is giving it to you straight.
The single best thing you can do for any 1500 is to install an AGM battery.
Once you do that, it will fire off while it is spinning over..

Wet cells, once they have been used a bit, loose a lot of capacity, and when they do, they can spin the starter nicely, but cannot hold up the terminal voltage high enough for the ignition to spark the plugs.... ergo, it won't start until you release the button, that allows the Wet Cell battery to "recover terminal voltage" and bingo! it starts.
 

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My '89 GL1500 has an odd starting issue. I believe it is electrical. I turn on the ignition switch and press the starter button. The engine cranks over nicely, but it doesn't fire up until I release the starter button. Therefore if I crank it for 2 seconds, then release the button it starts. OR if I let it crank for 5 seconds or even longer, it only fires when I release the button. Not always, but usually.

My theory is that there is insufficient voltage getting to the coils while the starter motor is cranking. Then when the cranking stops, boom it fires up. Is there some circuit or relay that is failing to supply voltage to the coils?

Does this have anything to do with the above delimma.
Here is what I have done for this dilemma.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/2-goldwing-technical-forum/611705-gl1500-starts-after-releasing-button-solved.html
 

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Thanks to all for your contributions and information. With this, I should be able to isolate and overcome the problem. Good point about the battery. It does crank well, but maybe I don't know what to expect. I now have a much better understanding of which components do what. Thanks again. Happy Thanksgiving to all!
 

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Still haven't made any modifications or voltage drop tests, but did a ride the other day. Instead of cranking until the engine fires up, I would just bump the starter switch for a fraction of a second, and then release the starter button. THE ENGINE FIRED OFF EVERY TIME !

All I can figure - is that the voltage runs through so many switches; relays; connectors; and length of wire; etc., that the voltage drops if any one of these units are not operating perfectly.

More troubleshooting to follow as I get some time. Thanks for all the research and information that members have provided.
 

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OK so I did the modification suggested by Erdeniz Umman, by adding a relay into the black and white wire that goes to the ignition unit / ignition coils.

The motorcycle now starts immediately, while the starter button is being pressed. As I said in an earlier post - there are so many devices that open the circuit if anything is amiss - such as the side stand down and the bike in gear - that if any component is not perfect, then the voltage was too low to make the coils provide spark. Also just the length of wire used to go to all the various devices - is enough to lower the voltage a lot. Plus, the wiring is quite small as well.

This was an easy, and excellent modification. Great idea. Thanks.
 

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OK so I did the modification suggested by Erdeniz Umman, by adding a relay into the black and white wire that goes to the ignition unit / ignition coils.

The motorcycle now starts immediately, while the starter button is being pressed. As I said in an earlier post - there are so many devices that open the circuit if anything is amiss - such as the side stand down and the bike in gear - that if any component is not perfect, then the voltage was too low to make the coils provide spark. Also just the length of wire used to go to all the various devices - is enough to lower the voltage a lot. Plus, the wiring is quite small as well.

This was an easy, and excellent modification. Great idea. Thanks.
I checked my bike at low battery voltages after this modification. I will not give any numbers, but will say the bike was cold and barely cranking, but it started immediately.

In addition to this easy starting benefit, having a powerful spark will improve the fuel efficiency and increase the mpg as well.
 
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