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OK. One last question (I lie--there will be others....). Which air filter do you all like for the GL1500. Stock or K&N?
 

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Still Learning
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Mine had the K&N in it and I haven't tried the stock type as yet. I hear that the paper is actually better. I may get one and do a MPG/performance test .
 

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Monkey with a Football
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Stock
 

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I use the stock filter. I tested a K&N, and I wasn't happy with what got through the filter. To get the high air flow they promise, I found out they let everything through except for large crickets ! (just kidding, but there is a trade-off for high air flow)

Scott
 

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I go with the stock too.

There are advantages to the K&N but in my opinion, they are outweighed by the larger size of particles that they let through.

The additional air that they let through isn't significant enough to make enough difference that you would notice.

I had K&N on my CB550 several years ago. The air box had been completely removed by the previous owner and he had put individual filters on each of the carb intakes. They were about 10-15,000 miles old, and they were falling apart. They didn't stand up to being exposed to the weather.
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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I gotta be meeeeee.....

I love the K&N. Shake off the big crap yearly, have yet to need a real cleaning in over70,000 miles. Power and fuel mileage consistent all 6 years of ownwership. Everything runs like a top. Power? Fuel economy? The same as far as I can tell.
Some have tested and said lots of fine dust gets through. Last I looked under my filter (In April of '11 when I did my major PM session) it looked fine down there. I had one on my car for aver 100k and liked it, too.
I just prefer not buying filters over and over and have nothing against stock ones save that.

I live in Oregon. If I lived in a desert state I might stay paper, but much of my 'local' dirt is larger anyway.
 

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Just another ORF!
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Definitely pleated paper.

Much larger flow area that's filtered. Won't go into that, but suffice it to say that when I showed my buddy Beemer Brad how poorly the K&Ns filter through a little experiment, he bit the bullet and ordered a stock BMW pleated filter, which was almost 3 times the cost of the K&N

I just put another new one in at the start of this past season, after getting 3 yrs/110,000km/65,000mi service out of my last one. I could have kept running that one, but decided since I had a new one on hand for some time, I'd 'treat' the 'Ole Girl. That works out to less than $10/year.

Every winter during PM time, I'll remove the filter, give it a slight tap to dislodge any dirt/dustand use shop air @ 45PSI to blow it out from the underside. As long as you can see light through them when held up and looking from behind, they're good to go.
 

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When I bought my bike in 03 The po had a k&n on the bike so I just mantain it & its still in good condition so At about every 30,000 I do a complete tune -up like on a car change plugs ,sync the carbs ,clean the k&n & sub fiter & drain the liquid polutant tube & no problems so far !
 

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Still Learning
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hummer5205 wrote:
When I bought my bike in 03 The po had a k&n on the bike so I just mantain it & its still in good condition so At about every 30,000 I do a complete tune -up like on a car change plugs ,sync the carbs ,clean the k&n & sub fiter & drain the liquid polutant tube & no problems so far !
You should be opening it up every spring to check for varmits that may have gotten in there and built a nest, so while in there clean and re-oil as it the oil is what does the filtering in the media of the K&N.
If a stock paper, clean it as Dusty said every spring before opening your bike to the road or you may get a let down one day.:sadguy: PM goes a long way on these bikes. Most don't even lube their cables every year or clean their switches.
These 1500s and 1800 will give you over 500,000 miles if taken care of each year.
 

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Piled Higher and Deeper
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Dusty Boots wrote:
Definitely pleated paper.

Much larger flow area that's filtered. ....,.... when I showed my buddy ...how poorly the K&Ns filter .......... he bit the bullet and ordered a stock ...
+1.... might be some good aftermarket paper somewhere, but for no more often than it needs to be changed, I use OEM...

I used K&N when I road off-road (desert and sand).. but then I was cleaning it a couple times a day and a paper element twoce a day would be expensive....
 

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Wild Rhino - Canadian
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I went with the OEM pleated filter
It is going to catch more of the stuff that you don't want being sucked into your engine.
The purpose of the air filter is "Protection of the Engine" if you want to skimp on that, go right ahead.
The Gold Wing is a complex & highly engineered machine, I will always opt for the best that is available for my machine, regardless of the cost.
Good Luck
 

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Just another ORF!
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Here's a test for your bike's K&N filter element.

1) Spray it with oil and hold it up to the light. Look through it towards the lightTake note of how the oil covers the pores. Let set overnight.

2) pick up the filter the next day and look atthe backside of it while holding it to a lightagain. Note what has happened to the oil and all the gaps in the filter media.

3) junk it and get a proper pleated paper element.
 

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Hey Yall. My first technical post. WooHoo! So without getting into all the nifty science of how the well the K&N's filter the air,the question iswhich to put in a GL1500. Paper is a better choice.And sinceeveryone here loves technical tidbits, here's thestory: we all know Honda puts a lot of engineering into things.The carburator calibration is VERY precise to accomodate the multitude of conditions the bike operates in.There areseveral tiny metering ports reading these conditionscausing adjustments in the mixture. The paper filter has agiven amount of restriction that the calibration is engineered around. The K&N has significantly less restriction. This reduction in restriction changes these readings in the carburator and nets a mixture that is not optimum. The carburator can not change it's calibration (and only has one)but it can change it's mixture. This incorrect mixture causes negative changes in fuel economy and emissions.



So ifyou use a low restriction/high flow filter in a carburated vehicle, it should be recalibrated (jets, metering rods, port resizingetc). K&N filters (and low restriction exhaust) work great in fuel injected vehicles because there are several sophisticated sensors measuring theconditions and the pcm utilizes layers of calibrations to keep the mixture at optimum. Of course, too many changes (cams, headers) exceeds the range of the calibrations causing inefficiency as well.



As well, there are many other details that could make this look like an oily darkside best truck debate, but that is the basics.



Paper.





Wow...... that was fun........ I need to go ride and calibrate some mixtures.
 

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A clean air filter will do a better job at being an air filter than a dirty one.
I cleaned my dirty K&N with an alcohol based aerosol cleaner and it came up like new. The 1500 runs better....
Just saying....
 

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Nutjob wrote:
... K&N filters ....work great in fuel injected vehicles because there are several sophisticated sensors measuring theconditions and the pcm utilizes layers of calibrations to keep the mixture at optimum. ....
Less restriction, yes... but I wouldn't put a K&N in an everyday fuel injected bike either... for the reasons stated above.... might get an extra pony or two, but doesn't filter dirt as well...

Might want to read THIS FILTER TEST.
 

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I just put in a paper filter too. K&N messed up the MAF on my truck. Good for racing, bad for daily drivers..
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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Some vehicles are fine with them and some are not. I put one in our '08 Focus just so I would never have to buy one again, not for any mileage or power boost. Flawless a year later. However I also had one in the Lincoln Towncar (a 1995) that the Focus replaced. Had to remove it after 2 months because the MAF ashed up. Easy fix though-just clean the MAF wire VERY carefully and off I went.
As for the wings, perhaps there is some validity to the type of environment most ridden in. When I had it apart last this spring for cleaning and the PM session, I did not notice any build up of dust/muddy crud below the filter and as I said, it has been in there quite a while. Anything wrong with paper? No! The main reason I put one in the wing? Never have to buy it again. I have used them in most of my vehicles for the last 25 years or so and the only vehicle with a problem was the Lincoln. That includes the variety of bikes I have owned for which they were available.

As a complete side note - my dad was an old bike racer in the 50's, 60's. He rode the snot out of a bunch of Brit bikes (BSA Lightning, etc) and he ran most of those with nothing but an air horn - no filter at all. This was in Massachusettes.

Kimswang- Please don't hold the fact that I am law enforcememnt against me (saw your sig) :)
 

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A filters "filtering efficiency" is the poorest when it is new. Not flow, just filtering. As debris accumualtes on the filter media it tends to restrct more but filter better. There is obviously a tipping point where you have to change or clean a filter. If you buy a paper element filter and see dirt on it, you don't have to pitch it. That filter is filtering better at that point than a new one. Think about it logically. Eventually it will filter so fine that air will not flow through it. Obviously this is not what the intent but the theory is sound. I seldom change my paper element. I shake them out anduse low pressure compressed air from the clean side out and reuse. Even use the out pressure from your shop vac is perfect. Just like Dusty says, again and again. Use the money for gas and get a better air filter than new. To heck with the dealer. He just uses your money to buy his gas. :)
 

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On a Wing & a KLR
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I've got a K&N for sale if anyone is interested.
 
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