Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!:waving:
I am continueing to search, but I'm sure I saw a good proceedure here somewhere on how to test for a bad alternator.
I have checked at the batery and do not have any voltage increase when the bike is started. Thought I'd test directly at the alternator so I know if that is the problem, as I suspect, or the connections from alternator to battery.
Didn't the forum used to have a A-Z of technical problems section? Maybe I'm blind but can't find that.....:?
Thanks!
Andy
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,931 Posts
The A to Z is gone for good I guess. Check the voltage at the main lug on the alternator and at both ends of the dogbone fuse to the right of the battery.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks.
Voltage at the main lug on alternator stays at battery voltage with bike running and checked I have 12V on the green wire feeding into alternator. So next step is to pull the alternator and see if cleaning works or brushes are stuck. Found another thread that had that so hoping for the quick/easy/cheap fix!
 

·
It aint rocket science
Joined
·
3,967 Posts
Yup. The A-Z forum had hundreds of excellent How To's and is how during a web search first brought me to this site.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, took the alternator off and checked the brushes. They look OK and I cleaned them to make sure they can move freely.
Also checked the slip rings and they meter correctly.
Didn't test stator as it required unsoldering and I figured I'd try the cleaning first. No specific tests in the manual for the voltage regulator.
So I threw it back together and..... still no output.

Condenser I wasn't sure of. The manual was a little ambiguous as to the testing. Maybe an issue.

So now I'll need to decide if I pull it and test the stator or admit defeat and order in an alternator. Can you buy just a stator or voltage regulator for these and any idea how much? :?
 

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
1,819 Posts
Alternator complete = 243$ , stator = 69$ , rectifier = 135$ , all from hdlparts .
But first locate your problem , eventually take your alternator to a local repair shop , and have it tested .
 

·
The Irish Crew
Joined
·
3,932 Posts
So why can't the A-Z forum be brought back to life?
Probably because the links are all changed. All the posts are still here and the A-Z just indexed some of them for easier finding. They can still be found with the forum search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
I have seen a few of the condenser go bad and mess with charging. If can, remove it to check charging(new ones have a different type noise suppressor on them).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,245 Posts
To be sure it has to be bench tested the only way to do a complete test specily volt regulator....
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, removed it again and un-soldered the stator. Meters out ok; minimal resistance between leads (.3 ohm) and no continuity to the core.

If I've checked all else, does this mean by process of elimination it must be the regulator?:?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, not having any luck finding someone to test the regulator. As soon as they hear motorcycle they don't want to do it as they say they don't know how to hook it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
654 Posts
You could try calling these folks for some test ideas, or maybe find out that you can't test it yourself. Either way, looks like they are familiar, intimately, with GL1500 alternators.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,163 Posts
I have never even seen a alternator on a 1500. But it can't work too much differently than any other internally regulated alternator.
Field voltage is supplied through one brush, ground is supplied by the regulator on the other. Both brushes are insulated from the case.
The GM alternators use to have a slot in the back of the case known as the "D" slot, because it looked like a "D".........
By going through the slot with a paper clip, you could ground the second brush, full fielding the alternator, and confirming the regulator good or bad.
Anything like that on the 1500? Stock, or Compufire?
 

·
Junior Grue
Joined
·
8,153 Posts
Well, not having any luck finding someone to test the regulator. As soon as they hear motorcycle they don't want to do it as they say they don't know how to hook it up.
What you have is a car alternator that mounts a little different and has a drive flange instead of a pulley.

Take it into a shop and let them look at it. They'll have to remove the flange and put on a pulley but from there it's just standard testing.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks guys!
I found a shop that is certified for doing rebuilds and the tech there said no problem testing the regulator. (For Ken Bergen who is "local" it is in North Van) I took the whole thing in but since I had unsoldered the stator to isolate the leads left it that way so he has easy access to the rectifier. Should know tomorrow morning.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
28,832 Posts
Just wanted to say the stock alternator doesn't charge untill the RPM's reach about 1500 did you just let it idle or did you rev it up. This is one of the reasons that people such as me buy and install compufire and other types of inhanced alternators. They are charging at Idle not 1500 to 2000 rpm. its so bad that sometimes people who are stuck in traffic for a long period end up with a dead bike as the whole time they sit there the are running off the battery not the alternator.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
275 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yeah, tested both at idle and 2K RPM. Thanks.
Tech tested and did find a bad voltage regulator. I'll have it back by 5 today and on the bike tonight.:thumbsup:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
239 Posts
Most of the time it is just a voltage regulator on charging issues. The question is.
Do you want to take the alt. apart on the side of the road and do all the checks or just install another and fix it later?
As for myself. Get me going and I will/can fix it later. But sometimes it would cost more to fix the alt. than to buy another one (more than just regulator problem).
In other words. It depends on how much down time you are willing to do/take in order to ride again. I found an alt. with a bad regulator I am going to fix and keep in bike just because I like to take long trips.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top