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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me how to change the rear cam seals on a 1988 gl1500?
 

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I just took a look in my 93 Service manual . In section 7 page 21 , they show / explain putting the capend and seal onto the camshaft ( which you remove to do this) .

section 7 page 20 " Lubricate the camshaft journals and cam lobes with molybdenum disulfied oil "
section 7 page 21 " Install the oil seal and cap on the ends of the camshaft. Coat the outer edges oil seal and end cap with sealant .
Lay the camshaft in the cylinder head ,aligning the front keyway with the cylinder head/head cover mating surface , facing the intake ports ( each side)
Instal the two dowel pins into onto the cylinder head . Instal the camshaft holder in the cylinder head , aligning the oil holes on the holder and the cylinder head .
Instal and tighten the eight bolts in sequence shown .
TORQUE: 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m , 14 ft-lb )

bolt tighten sequence ( right head shown )
top row of bolts rear to front 8 2 3 5

bottom row rear to front 6 4 1 7

Now you go on to replace the timing belt head plate , pulley ,belt ect .

I dont see any place where they say you can just pop out the cap end and push the new cap end into place . I hope someone who may have done this comes along to offer thoughts . Before I took it apart that way , i would try and pull the capend out and just bump the new one back in place .

Here is a link to the micro fiche which shows the breakdown and part numbers .
: Ohio, Florida, Honda, Parts, Accessories, dealer, Honda Direct LIne
 

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It can, I have done it, however you shouldn't because there is a very good change you will damage it this way.
 

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This cap has no external lips, so it "could" slide in from the rear (provided there was enough clearance and you didn't mid wiping off all the sealant that shouldkeep the outside surface sealed to the head/cam-holder junction there.) -- I believe someone will have a photo of P/N 91209-463-013 online... it's used in a few bikes.

I've only done it by pulling the cam, though you should be able to do it by leaving the cam gear insitu, and removing pressure from the cam holder to allow the rear shell to separate for a little clearance... of course, this messes with the front seal and ignores the two dowel pins that hold the cam holder in alignment while side-loading the followers ...

Pulling the cam is not that much extra work when considering things -- and you'd be able to swap the front seal while your there and also have a look at why this seal failed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
cam seals

Well after many valve cover gasket and rear cover gasket changes pluse buying new chrome valve covers found that rear cam cap seal was the problem all the time.After taking it out looks like someone has tried to change them before and instead of removing cam to do it they tried driving them in and where cam holder meets head it made a grove at top and bottom. Hearing that cam had to come out was intimidating at first but once you get in there it is simple. Thanks Satan and everyone that has posted help. Have learned a lot about 1500 wings since buying mine.
 

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Are ya back running with no leaks?

That "cam holder" can seem a bit scary with all the excitment of adjusters and shims and such, but... not really so bad, eh?

Did'ja pick-up any time-saving tips or tricks that you can share?
 

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Glad to hear you fixed your bike. Please let us know if you up and riding and enjoying your baby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
cam seals

Parts came today will have them back in by tomorrow night. Hope to be riding by Thursday.:claps:
 

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Good deal -- Keep an eye out for "tips/tricks" -- Not a common part to fail and I'm sure you'll leaarn something new along the way...

I can offe that I did try it once by just "backing off" the timing belt tensioner on the offending side (not pulling the belt off of te cam gear) and only partially loosening the cam holder -- Maybe saved 10-minutes to increase the hassle of removing the cam-end seal and really made putting the new seal on not a lot of fun (always wondered if any of the RTV on the OD of the seal actully got into the gaps, since most of it seemed to wipe off as I was pushing the seal on in such lmited space)-- NOT a recommended approach, IMHO
 
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