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Discussion Starter #41
Did the limiter mod. Also since I am replacing the idle jets to the #60 from the #50, anyone have any ideas as to the number
of turns the pilots should start out at. I determined the existing turns were 3 to seated. So if I am richening the idle should I dial them back to 2 turns out? I do not have a manual for any of this.
Thanks
David
 

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Do the math for yourself.:smiler: When going from the 50 to 55 jets mixture screws get turned in one turn to 2 1/8 turns initial. 60 jets are very large and overkill in comparison to the OEM which is why I recommended the 58's.

I would start at 1 1/2-3/4 turns out initial point and adjust out from there. You do not want a teary eyed exhaust smelling gas hog.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
DriverRider:
I purchased the #60's directly off Honda Direct Parts for a 1990 GL1500 as that is what the jet size was for that year. They are not aftermarket. Also several have commented on the fact they were successful in using jets for that year (searched this forum). I do appreciate your comment and chiming in here on the initial turn settings for the Pilot adjustments. Since I have no manual....oops... yes I do now. John (aka:AZGL1800) was very gracious in sending me his library of information. Which included a complete manual!!!
Big Thanks to Him!
David
 

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RUBBER
19050-MT2-010




I recently purchased the heat rubber matt from Western Honda . I needed to replace hoses underneath and the rubber was in pieces . Still working on the cooling system. So it will go on last!
Just in case you are replacing yours also
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Thanks AZwngr, I will check it out. Mine is in one piece but I have not made any real attempt to remove it yet to check underneath it. Likely it will come apart when I do though.
David
 

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Discussion Starter #46
The jets came today. So was able to get the cleaned right side carb back together. The left side is now apart and will boiling it out this evening.
Noticed there was some fine sandy junk in float bowl and the idle jet had some junk in it as well. Still have to find some heat resistant vacuum line. The stuff at Oreilly's is for windshield wipers cleaner. Does anyone think that might work? It looks like I will not need much. I have only two short pieces I had to destroy to get them off the carbs. Also still have to change the leftside subfilter.
I will post some pictures of the progress a bit later. There is a striking comparison of how the carbs looked after cleaning.
 

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Still have to find some heat resistant vacuum line. The stuff at Oreilly's is for windshield wipers cleaner. Does anyone think that might work?
Windshield washer hose= throw it in the trash. Get real vacuum line from a NAPA or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
John
I pulled the carb out of the distilled water and mild vinegar solution. It was probably too mild and there was not much progress. The one on the left in the picture had been soaking for 5-6 hours.
So dumped 1/4 gallon of "Simply Awesome" cleaner in with that much distilled water and the results was amazing. After which
I blew the carb body out with compressed air then did a warm water wash with mild detergent and repeated the compressed air treatment.

DriverRider:
Got it! I thought so too
 

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Carb work

I too use vinegar as it is a mild acid, but I follow it up with a baking soda solution as a neutralizer. Being that this bike is 28 years old, I think that you should be prepared to replace alot of rubber components. Unless the slides have been replaced, I'd "almost" bet you that they will have cracks in the diaphragms. Also be sure to pull up the rubber boot and inspect the formed rubber hoses coming off both the front and rear of the intake manifolds. Check those hoses at their bends for soft spots, they'll suck holes in them at that point. The other items that I'd automatically change if they haven't been would be the insulators. All of these rubber items get hard and brittle over time and won't seal very well at all, causing vacuum leaks and lean running conditions. The last thing that you want is to have to pull the carbs a second time, so be through and do it right the first time. Plus you can't adjust the jets or sync. the carbs if the system is not sealed tight'
If the recall has been done, just a good "through" cleaning and rebuilding with new wear items should do the trick.
Look at Partzilla's website under your year and model, then look under "cylinder head" to find the hoses etc... Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Insulators on the carbs to intake manifold were nearly rock hard. Replacements already here. The diaphragms were perfect.
The the accelerator pump was not squirting gas after noticing it while idling and giving it throttle. None of the other hoses are brittle. In the past the autopetcock has been troublesome even after a rebuild. I bypassed it to determine if that was the problem. Indeed it was back then as the fuel starvation from idle was eliminated. The left carb had some trash in the slow speed jet and the main jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Spiralout:
THANKS for the heads up on that. I missed it. But I can still check this. The carbs are assembled but not to the heater plate or the upper nozzle plate. In fact I just replaced the orings on the check valve. That would be an easy check especially right now.
David
 

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I wish I had the time and garage space to do this to my 88. Has anyone tried just richening up the pilot screws to see if it helps at all with the stumble? I know it works for my virago bike. Also, does anyone know how many turns from soft seat until the screws fall out? With my virago it's like 9. Anyway, nice work David!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Tyaston
I think if the pilot's were more accessible folks might try it. BUT you cannot even see them, I do not know how I am going to reach them to sync the carbs once its all back on. I could barely see the isolator clamp screws to get the carbs off. Maybe run a hose over the end of the pilot screws and use it to twist the pilots. ????? maybe?

However that being said mine were already a little over three turns off the seat. What I found with my 88 is without all that work was just turn the idle speed up from 600rpm (i think that is it) to 800rpm. It put engine rpm past where the stumble would occur. This never bothered me at all. In fact you never had to give it any gas to get the bike rolling from a stop. Just let the clutch out and it would start to roll.

Stopped on the carbs for the moment, the spring on the rod that pushes the accelerator pump took off to parts unknown during re-assembly. Waiting on a replacement. I have rebuilt carbs before but nothing with this much stuff hung all over the outside of them, nor in such a da$% tight limited work space.

I viewed the link spiralout sent and the accelerator pump thru the checkvalve is working. The accelerator pump nozzles are clear as I could blow air thru them. So it is now clear.
 

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the 1500s should be idling at about 800 up to 1100.

Personally, I set both of my 1500s at 1100 RPM as that provides plenty of electricity for brake lights, etc... when you are stopped 'way too long'.

It also helps keep you from 'stalling the engine' if you drop the clutch too hard on take off.
 

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Idle speed for the 1500 is 800 RPM +/-80 to keep the computer happy and fuel mileage in check.:)
 
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