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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lost my clutch yesterday...about 4 days ago, noticed the take up was really bad and the fluid level dropped to half way in the window. Last night, i know the clutch was going as i started off to work. I got to our gated entry and the bike started to pull with the clutch lever all the way back.
Anyone recommend rebuilding instead of replacing? Looks to be about the same cost if going second hand slave units.
Looks like I will be leaning toward replacing the slave since there is no leakage noticed. Fleabay has many available as replacements and most have all the 1500 years listed.
Are they basically all the same or are specific for model years?
 

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Rebuild the slave or replace your choice, either way there is a seal in front of the slave cylinder that you will need to replace seal #16 on the parts breakdown. If that seal is bad the clutch fluid will go into the engine. That is why you don't see any external leakage and the fluid is going down. You might also want to rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder while you are doing it. If it were me I'd just do the rebuild unless the internals are badly pitted.


If it's just starting to pull, you can get by for a while just by filling the clutch master with Dot 4 brake fluid only and bleed the system. If you can't bleed it good or don't want to, once it's full zip tie the clutch lever to the handle and let it sit overnight. That's cheating, but it works lol.
 

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I rebuilt mine(just the slave) 3 or 4 years ago because it was leaking externally and has been fine since.I used an aftermarket kit that I got from my Honda Dealer(one that they use inhouse) and if I remember right it was less than $25.
 

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Yes all the 1500 slaves will work. If you get a used one be ready to take it apart and do a thorough cleaning as any system that has not had the fluid change yearly will have gunk built up in the slave(and master) and will eventually leak. Cleaning and rebuilding is the only way to remove the gunk as flushing out WILL NOT remove the gunk.

Put your money into the K&L rebuild kit. Pull yours apart and clean and rebuild it along with the master cylinders. $16
http://www.vencowings.com/mm5/merch...&L:32-0150&Category_Code=GL1500+Service+Parts

The simple preventative maintenance of changing the DOT4 yearly will eliminate this from happening on the clutch and the brakes too.
 

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Rebuild the slave or replace your choice, either way there is a seal in front of the slave cylinder that you will need to replace seal #16 on the parts breakdown. If that seal is bad the clutch fluid will go into the engine. That is why you don't see any external leakage and the fluid is going down....
+1... Note that the K&L Rebuild Kit does not include that part, nor the simple 0-Ring at the bleed nipple (Item-18), nor the Crush Washers (Item-15).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
WOW!!!!
when I make a mistake, its a good one. I thought I needed a new slave, NOPE!!!
I pulled the reservoir cover off to find a pile of clay like goop...CONTAMINATION!!! So I got the Mity-Vac out and pumped and pumped with clear liquid after 30 sec. Thats not right....so i pumped the clutch lever and suddenly, release..no, plops...no explodes out a ton of orange clay crap and plugs my mity-vac. This was completely nasty and it took a small bottle of Dot 4 to clean the res and fully clean out the lines. Never have i seen this before. I feel like ****, bucause its been about 2 years since i checked it last.
This event as taught me to not let things slip anymore. Thanks to all for the help on this topic.
Wolf
 

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If it has that much contamination, then you'll surely have to Dis-assemble the Slave to clean it out fully.
 

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If it has that much contamination, then you'll surely have to Dis-assemble the Slave to clean it out fully.
Yup.
Wolf,
Mine was as nasty as yours when I got it from my friend and yes the salve was worse, it was leaking fluid it was so gunked down there.
 

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Busdriver
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Do yourself a huge favor and install some Speed Bleeders. Simply the best money I've spent on the bike. About $7 each, they allow you to bleed the clutch or brakes in about 2 minutes, encouraging more frequent changes.

http://speedbleeder.com/
 

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WOW!!!!
when I make a mistake, its a good one. I thought I needed a new slave, NOPE!!!
I pulled the reservoir cover off to find a pile of clay like goop...CONTAMINATION!!! So I got the Mity-Vac out and pumped and pumped with clear liquid after 30 sec. Thats not right....so i pumped the clutch lever and suddenly, release..no, plops...no explodes out a ton of orange clay crap and plugs my mity-vac. This was completely nasty and it took a small bottle of Dot 4 to clean the res and fully clean out the lines. Never have i seen this before. I feel like ****, bucause its been about 2 years since i checked it last.
This event as taught me to not let things slip anymore. Thanks to all for the help on this topic.
Wolf
Hard to believe it got that bad in only 2 years....
I have seen some pretty nasty goo in brake lines but they were way older than 2 years from the last clean out..
...good thing you got 'er done now....
 

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Hard to believe it got that bad in only 2 years....
I have seen some pretty nasty goo in brake lines but they were way older than 2 years from the last clean out..
...good thing you got 'er done now....
If it was stored in a shed in a hot climate it doesn't take long, that's why it's important to change the fluid yearly so you don't get the goop/gunk in the slave cylinder, master cylinders and calipers.
 

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Rebuild the slave or replace your choice, either way there is a seal in front of the slave cylinder that you will need to replace seal #16 on the parts breakdown. If that seal is bad the clutch fluid will go into the engine. That is why you don't see any external leakage and the fluid is going down. You might also want to rebuild or replace the clutch master cylinder while you are doing it. If it were me I'd just do the rebuild unless the internals are badly pitted.


If it's just starting to pull, you can get by for a while just by filling the clutch master with Dot 4 brake fluid only and bleed the system. If you can't bleed it good or don't want to, once it's full zip tie the clutch lever to the handle and let it sit overnight. That's cheating, but it works lol.

Hmmm . . is seal 16 common to '84 models? If so, I did not see this seal unless it is just sitting inside the pushrod port - must be a thick felt seal or other I assume?
 

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If that leaking fluid has entered your crankcase, change your oil. DOT 4 is not a good engine lubricant.
 

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At this point, there is no dot 4 entering engine. I just pulled clutch slave to service/rebuild and noted that there is a seal (which makes sense). Is seal 16 just a typical fat felt seal? anyone know? '84's use this seal? Thanks!
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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At this point, there is no dot 4 entering engine. I just pulled clutch slave to service/rebuild and noted that there is a seal (which makes sense). Is seal 16 just a typical fat felt seal? anyone know? '84's use this seal? Thanks!
All seals are rubber.
At this point you should really just buy the seals and put them in. It's such an easy job that even I can do it.
 

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All seals are rubber.
At this point you should really just buy the seals and put them in. It's such an easy job that even I can do it.
Yes, already built clutch slave with new seals along with other hydraulic units - I was just caught off guard by seal 16 as I failed to notice it. Hopefully pulling and reinstalling the seal with bike on centerstand will work . . it's awfully tight in there -
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Yes, already built clutch slave with new seals along with other hydraulic units - I was just caught off guard by seal 16 as I failed to notice it. Hopefully pulling and reinstalling the seal with bike on centerstand will work . . it's awfully tight in there -

That engine seal should have been replaced as part of the rebuild. Too bad you have to go back in.
 

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I recently replaced mine. It was, as you've already stated, tight. It is, however, not difficult. I simply hooked it from behind and pulled it out. Being careful not to damage any surfaces, of course.
 
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