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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
planning to install refurb kits on clutch master and slave.

background: have been suspicious that clutch fluid service by PO was not sufficient. found a bunch of mud in the master cylinder and more was ejected through bleed valve at first fluid change. have serviced annually since then. recently finding that gears shift quietly if i pause for a second or two after pulling clutch lever before shifting, but clunk ( more that i'd remembered in the past ) if i shift immediately after pulling clutch lever.

upon disassembly, master cylinder was clean and parts seem in good shape.

the slave cylinder showed some external indications that it had been leaking a little bit, and had a small bit of "foreign" matter in it, but not full of mud like I'd imagined it might be.

since i've never looked at one of these animals before, i have attached the photo below and ask for guidance.

the piston cup shows some abrasion most of the way around the perimeter ( one of the more apparent spots is shown on top edge in photo ).

the piston appears to have suffered some corrosion or wear based on the silver discoloration all the way around the "outer" edge, but feels smooth to the touch. this would be a reasonably priced item to replace if the consensus is to replace.

the cylinder appears to have some abrasion on the bottom ( top in the photo ), but it also feels smooth to the touch. perhaps this wear is normal and due to gravity pulling down on the piston in the cylinder?

based on the appearance of the cylinder in the photo, should I reinstall or replace it?

given the limitations on access/visibility, what amount of inspection or cleaning of the clutch cover side of this enclosure is needed?



one further question related to reassembly. there was some grease on the inner end of the master cylinder push rod. what type ( if any ) grease should be used for this?

having read many posts here about this project, i did buy new crush washers for the banjo connections and a new oil seal for the clutch end of the pushrod.
 

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Premium Member
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It looks a lot better than some of the slave cylinders I've pulled. I would just clean it all up and fit new seals. LM grease will do for the pushrod.
 

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It aint rocket science
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It is fine, new rubbers and down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It looks a lot better than some of the slave cylinders I've pulled. I would just clean it all up and fit new seals. LM grease will do for the pushrod.
i don't have LM grease yet in my tool bench. easy enough to get, but would be delighted to save the trip if the moly grease i used on my final drive spines would be equivalent.

moly grease seems a bit thinner consistency than what i wiped off the master push rod during disassembly.

i also have some silicone grease and some high temp wheel bearing grease from non GW project.

thanks for the education on grease too!
 

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Anti-Guru
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i don't have LM grease yet in my tool bench. easy enough to get, but would be delighted to save the trip if the moly grease i used on my final drive spines would be equivalent.

moly grease seems a bit thinner consistency than what i wiped off the master push rod during disassembly.

i also have some silicone grease and some high temp wheel bearing grease from non GW project.

thanks for the education on grease too!
Given your inventory, the high-temp wheel bearing grease would be the closest to the LM that wingnut posts
 

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Junior Grue
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8,153 Posts
planning to install refurb kits on clutch master and slave.

background: have been suspicious that clutch fluid service by PO was not sufficient. found a bunch of mud in the master cylinder and more was ejected through bleed valve at first fluid change. have serviced annually since then. recently finding that gears shift quietly if i pause for a second or two after pulling clutch lever before shifting, but clunk ( more that i'd remembered in the past ) if i shift immediately after pulling clutch lever.
As others have said, that slave cylinder with a new piston cup looks serviceable but I doubt it will cure a clutch that is slow to release.

If the clunk continues and gets worse you'll likely have to look at the clutch pack.
 

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Wild Rhino - Canadian
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591 Posts
I just rebuilt my slave, I elected to replace the piston, both seals, the cylinder had some varnish like buildup inside and worked it good with some solvent to remove it.
Also had some corrosion of some kind in the lower wall of the cylinder, I went to the hardware store and got the finest grit sandcloth/paper and using some brake fluid I very lightly sanded out the corrosion/buildup.
 

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Postpubescent member
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The clunky shift is more likely due to shift technique than a clutch problem. All the master can do is push open the clutch. If the clutch wasn't being released fully waiting a second or two before shifting isn't going to make a difference. One other cause of clunky shifting is the wrong weight of oil. Since the bike has a wet clutch there is some dragging between the clutch plates which is a bit like a clutch that isn't fully disengaged. That should be reduced once the engine and transmission is warmed up to normal operating temperature. I don't really thing you have a clutch problem. What rpm are you using as a shift point? Much over 2500 makes for a rougher shift. A slight preload on the shifter, not a bunch of pressure, just a bit will help make a quieter, smoother shift. These bikes also have fairly beefy transmissions for a motorcycle so there will be a bit more 'clunk' sounds when shifting too. Wingnut's advice is exactly what I'd do.
 

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I agree with exavid on this point, "One other cause of clunky shifting is the wrong weight of oil."
I rebuilt my clutch system from the handle to the push bar going into the rear of the engine, flushed everything meticulously with new fluid, and still hand a "clunky" feel during shifting.
Changed my engine oil from a currently popular "alternative" that is touted on many a forum, back to a standard GL 1500 high mileage oil.
All I can say is that I am much happier with my clutch and shifting performance and I am an everyday, every weather condition rider so I rely on quick shifter and throttle repsonse.
From what I see your cylinder looks very clean.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all the feedback and guidance. i'm currently waiting for parts. i'll post an update when i finish the job. cheers.
 

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So hears a newbe for you.I have a 93 Goldwing I went to replace the seals on my slave .and be four I got the new parts I took it apart . I know dummy. The question I have the small steel washer goes under the small rubber. Correct. its not fitting right.any help would be great.thsnks
 
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