I think so. Doesn't the slave seal kit come with that seal?
Quick question, rebuilding clutch slave cly. Besides the slave piston seals, there is one more behind the assembly, my guess is to seal the crank case from the slave cly.
My question is, can this seal be accessed to change once the slave cly is removed?
If you're that far in, you might consider making a Custom 1-Piece Braided Stainless Steel brake line for the front/left, rather than put the stock one back... The advantages include eliminating one joint in the stock line (adjacent to right side of carb), which will reduce the tendancy to get air in the line....Right now I have the exhaust system removed so I can get to it from the bottom...I had to get the rear master cly off to rebuild and I have to replace the steel brake line that goes to the front brake. Previous owner cut the line and installed a compression fitting instead of removing the MC in the correct manner...
The slave cylinder needs to at least be taken apart and cleaned out of the gunk causing the leak, better to get a seal kit or Honda seals. If the fluid is not changed yearly the gunk starts building up and once it starts, only cleaning will get it out, flushing only does not work at that point.Thanks! That was the info I was looking for. Right now I have the exhaust system removed so I can get to it from the bottom. Will have to use a mirror no dought. I had to get the rear master cly off to rebuild and I have to replace the steel brake line that goes to the front brake. Previous owner cut the line and installed a compression fitting instead of removing the MC in the correct manner.
When I got the bike the clutch did not work, so I blead it to make sure it function correctly. That's been about two weeks, so I drained the system yesterday before disassemble, upon taking off the master cly cap I found no fluid, and no sign of leakage from the weep hole. So it must be going the other way!
The bike itself is in great shape, only 55k on it, still has the OEM front tire on it. All the time just sitting took its toll on it. Worst thing you can do to a bike!!
Only about $20 locally for the one line... Or, for only ~$90, I had made an Entire set (3 brake lines; 1 clutch), each a single length of Braided SS....I did not know there was a one piece line from the rear master cly to the front brake. This will have to be made custom I take it by reading your post. I bet that is a pretty penny...
...only 55k on it...
> Does not need it... they rarely wear out, even at 200k milesIf you so desire, you can go ahead and rebuild the clutch too while you are in that deep...
Yes, that seal (#15 as follows) can be removed once the slave cylinder is removed. I had to use a mechanics mirror to be able to see into the hole, and a curved pick to pull the old seal out.
-Replace the crush washers (Item#14) on the hydraulic line to the slave.
-If you buy a rebuild kit (such as K&N), it does not include all the consumable parts (such as Item #12, 15, 17, 18).
OIL SEAL (8X25X8)
ref: The rear seal is also listed here as Item #28
OIL SEAL (28X48X9)