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Good day all Gold Wingers. Its -20 here in New Brunswick Canada - no riding for a couple more months.

My 1500 with 85Kis up on the hoist getting its annual once over. I am considering doing a coolant flush but cannot find any directions. Some of the hose connections are in tight locations.

First, is it necessary - I am not sure how old the coolant is. Second, If you gurus out there think a coolant flush is necessary, do you have any tricks or gizmos. Thanks

Blackhat
 

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It's real easy to change the coolant on the 1500. The drain plug is right under the water pump which is right at the front of the engine, beside the oil filter. The workshop manual tells you to remove the coolant bottle for draining, thats a bit harder. What I did was get a length of thin rubber tubing and I just siphoned the coolant out.
Then refill the radiator and coolant bottle, run the engine for a few minutes and then check the levels again.
 

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The most important thing in all of this, is to make sure you use silicate-free coolant. The silicates in most automotive coolants are there as an abrasive to help scrub the inside of the cooling system to keep it clean. Most automotive water pumps have hardened steel water pump shafts.

On a Goldwing the silicates grind into the aluminum water pump shaft and cause the water pump to fail (to start leaking around the shaft). Silicates, (SiO[suB]2[/suB]) are the same stuff that most sand is made from. On the Mohs hardness scale, silicon mineralshave a hardnessof around 7.Aluminum and most steel is much softer.
 

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I had mine changed last winter. I didn't do it myself, but teh mechanic who did it said it only took him about 40 minutes to do, and 10 minutes of that was waiting for the old stuff to drain out.
 

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Thanks to all. I found some great Silicate (sp) coolant at Walmart - a TECH 2000 product. Oddly enough the coolant is red in colour vice the normal green.

As it turned out, changing the coolant was very simple, once I found the drain ****.

PRN
 

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Silicate FREE!!

BTW, my aspy has some silicate in it, I am planning on flushing it this weekend, how long does it take to damage the shaft, it only has ~400 miles on the silicate coolant?
 

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If it ain't leakin' it's probably okay. Doesn't make much difference, if there's any damage it's already done so change it and don't sweat it. I try to avoid borrowing worries.:grinner::grinner:
 

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LOLOL!!! I wish I were so! I am already planning my stator replacement and I am experiencing absolutely no problems!!
 

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Its a darn good idea to change all the fluids, especially brake fluid. If it smells or tastes of ammonia, its got water. I also flush the engine crankcase every year or two with kerosene to clean out the sludge, but its a bit complicated process.
 

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Can anyone recommend a good coolant brand in Ireland, I intend to change the fluids in my trusty 1500 before the summer.
 
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GreenWing wrote:
Can anyone recommend a good coolant brand in Ireland, I intend to change the fluids in my trusty 1500 before the summer.
Hey GreenWing, :waving:Yes sir the best coolant on the market for your :15green:is the Honda Coolant Type 2 :clapper:its an all season anti-freeze :weightlifter:and can be bought in most good Honda Dealers.

:leprechaun: :18red: :leprechaun:
 

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Honda Type II sould be available fromlotsofHonda car dealers all over the planet.
 

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Busy day today, changed belts, changed coolant, and put most of it back together. Still need to change oil in forks. Pulling the radiator on an SEI is a pain! The old belts didn't look too bad, don't know how long they've been in there looks like they've been either off or replaced once going by the felt pen marks on the cam pulleys. Steering head is pretty loose, no slack, just no friction at all. Probably should get to that while I'm still in the mood, but again on the SEI that isn't all that easy either. I really like this bike but it is a good bit harder to work on since there is so much stuff crammed in everywhere, makes for slow going.
 

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You must have a heated garage.
 

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Changing the coolant in the Gl1200 SEI is a real pain, after removing the faux tank, or top cover it's nearly impossible to take the cap off the radiator since it's buried down amongst a whole bunch of wire bundles. In fact I'm thinking of cutting off the neck of the radiator and extending it about four inches with a piece of radiator hose to get it up to where it can be accessed without pulling off the seat and top cover. I hate to admit it, but as much as I like all the bells and whistles, I'm contemplating selling my SEI and looking for a GL1200 Interstate for the simplicity.

I'mlucky in the garage department, I built a 24'x36' heated workshop.

Back together this evening, changed fork oil, changed coolant, replaced timing belts, changed oil. Didn't torque up the head bearings, they'll have to wait. Turned the engine over a few times by hand with a ratchet and socket to make sure nothing surprising would happen and then lit her off. Started like new and runs smooth.
 

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The Honda Type II does seem to last very well, much longer than the 2 year reccomended interval for changing. I had mine checked with a test kit and it was still showing 92% efficiency when I got my 1500. It was 4 years old at the time and the coolant had never been changed or topped up, according to the previous owner. Needless to say I changed it anyway, but in Ireland I reckon we would get away with changing it every 3 years instead of 2 as the temperature rarely drops as low or for as long as it does in Canada and other countries.
Brake and clutchfluid I still change every 2 years. It's so easy to do that it just isn't worth ignoring for years.
 

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Look again Heffo! :shock: It's nearly 7 years old.
 
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