GL1500 Cornering Lights Conversion

6588 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by jfairman, Jan 30, 2010

busdriver

Discussion Starter · Aug 10, 2009

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Just did the cornering light conversion on my 1990.
I read about it on Steve's site, however it said to cut the wires.
I didn't like that idea, so here's my twist.

Remove fairing lowers to reveal the relays. They are strapped to the frame, lower corner just above the horns. Pull back the rubber boot and disconnect the connector block.
Locate the correct wires, on mine it was orange white (left side) and blue white (right side) then find the corresponding terminal in the lower half of the block,
Using a very small flat blade micro screwdriver place it inside the block against the spade terminal and push down to release/unlock and push the terminal out through the backside.
re-connect the connector block and tape up the spade terminal , re-install plastics, done.

Sorry no pics.

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1 - 20 of 25 Posts

DBohrer

· #2 · Aug 10, 2009

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The orange/white and blue/white "color codes" have been the standard running light wires since the 1975 Gold Wing's.

The running lights in the left and right turn signals are the same color wires.

The left turn signal wire is orange and the right turn signal wire is blue.

They just added the white tracer for the running lights.

tlbranth

· #3 · Nov 18, 2009

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db thet looks like my '69 bsa lightning that ran on occasion.

Snorebaby

· #4 · Nov 18, 2009

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Excellent busdriver!!

I also converted mine to running lights....but I did it a little different. Being that I like neatness in my wiring (hatecuttingfactory wiring)and easily reconverting back to stock (if need be) I took this approach. It is run off my extra (relayed) fuse block. I also used the factory 2pin connectors so if the next owner prefers....all he has to do is disconnect my harness and reconnect the factory wiring harness.

They don't shine real bright when looking straight at the bike, but from the side angle (or just off center) they are very bright and noticeable (see my avatar) which helps when vehicles are on the side streets wanting to pull out in front of you.

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Foodman

· #5 · Nov 18, 2009

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Great diagram Doug..

One question, if you wanted to put in a switch to go back and forth between full on and back to cornering lights, Where would you put it in your schematic??

Snorebaby

· #6 · Nov 18, 2009

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Hey Foodie!! Thanks!

Let me work on it .....to find the simpliest way to do it. :shock:

Foodman

· #7 · Nov 18, 2009

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Thanks

Snorebaby

· #8 · Nov 18, 2009

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OK...here is the simpliest way I could figure to do this. If you use a lighted toggle switch...then there will be a 3rd spade that will go to ground so the toggle will light up.

The only question...and maybe some true electrical gurus could tell me....is the feedback of the 12v to the turn signal relays when the toggle switch is on (cornering lights running) going to harm the bike/lights/relayswhen I use the turn signals at the same time, which in turn is feeding the relays 12v at the same time?

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Mel53

· #9 · Nov 18, 2009

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Although you have a great tallent for diagrams, that I cannot compete with, here is a safer version using a DPDT switch. I can see that you eliminated the original and supplied the new power. This way will do both.

Hope you can understand it.

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Snorebaby

· #10 · Nov 18, 2009

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OH...I had that orginally but thought it would backfeed both lights when the turn signals were being used.

But looking at the schematic of the switch itself...I can see where each side is seperate.THANKS!!!

So here is the original I had drawn up.

Here is how it will look wired (Schematic)

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AQUAMAN

· #11 · Nov 18, 2009

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come on guys speakie english, spst switch, dpdt switch, switched power fuse block, come on. Do I need to ask Rudy to splain 2 me? LOL

AQUAMAN

· #12 · Nov 18, 2009

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Or can I just use 7 scotch locks and a half roll of tape???

Mel53

· #13 · Nov 18, 2009

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spst is a single pole single throw switch, means one set (pair) of contacts and two wires,
dpdt is double pole double throw switch, means three sets (pairs) of wires and six contacts.
I am really sorry, but if you don't understand the basics of spst, or dpdt concept, then there is absolute,y no way that you are going to understand in one simple message.
Also, no offence, if you do not understand the basics, there is no way that you should even attempt working with the electrics, to protect you and your bike.

Mel53

· #14 · Nov 18, 2009

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Or can I just use 7 scotch locks and a half roll of tape???

Sure, if you feel safe to do so.

Your loss.

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Foodman

· #15 · Nov 19, 2009

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That's great guys thank you.. Makes it simple.. Looks like the hardest part is where to put the switch:action::action:..

You should file this in the index it's real good stuff....

jbb303

· #16 · Nov 19, 2009

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tag

Rudy

· #17 · Nov 19, 2009

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Don't make me come down there and build those...

Rudy

· #18 · Nov 19, 2009

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Snorebaby wrote:

OH...I had that orginally but thought it would backfeed both lights when the turn signals were being used.

But looking at the schematic of the switch itself...I can see where each side is seperate.THANKS!!!

So here is the original I had drawn up.

Here is how it will look wired (Schematic)

Nice work Snorey. :waving:

AQUAMAN

· #19 · Nov 19, 2009

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Ouch! That smarts, yeah Rudy you can come out anytime and help work on my bike. (PSST, Rudy I have a special project for my bike, its right up your alley)

Rudy

· #20 · Nov 19, 2009

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AQUAMAN wrote:

Ouch! That smarts, yeah Rudy you can come out anytime and help work on my bike. (PSST, Rudy I have a special project for my bike, its right up your alley)

Lets party. I'll bring my cutters. :cooldevil:

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