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Has anyone else experienced a noise like this? I see that the front CS bearing is servicable in the frame but the rear is not. Hope for some insight before going in. God Bless! Kevin
 

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I would not even attempt a diagnosis with such a minimal description as that but I have never attempted, nor have I heard of, the front counter shaft bearing being serviced without splitting the engine cases.

The cover is there, but the engine cases apply pressure on the outer race of the bearing and slipping it out, IMO, is not an option. Reinstalling a new bearing would be as equally difficult.

If anyone out there has accomplished this bearing R/R without splitting the cases I would LOVE to hear about the procedure.
 

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Thanks Ray, I didn't notice that my whole description did not post for some reason. The symptom is as follows on my 96k mile 2000. I have been experiencing a torsional growl under load beginning ineach gear change. I now am noticing a decel whine/growl as well. This past weekend I noticed a rough bearing noise in N with the clutch engaged (lever released). The noise/growl is getting worse pretty fast. I have put 5k miles on in the past 90 days and am a little concerned to ride. God Bless! Kevin
 

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Thanks Ray, I didn't notice that my whole description did not post for some reason. The symptom is as follows on my 96k mile 2000. I have been experiencing a torsional growl under load beginning ineach gear change. I now am noticing a decel whine/growl as well. This past weekend I noticed a rough bearing noise in N with the clutch engaged (lever released). The noise/growl is getting worse pretty fast. I have put 5k miles on in the past 90 days and am a little concerned to ride. God Bless! Kevin
 

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tmkkmk8 wrote:
Has anyone else experienced a noise like this? I see that the front CS bearing is servicable in the frame but the rear is not. Hope for some insight before going in. God Bless! Kevin
I'm going thru the same thing. I thought it was a 4th gear problem at first but I don't have the other symptoms, like skipping or jumping out of gear. If I use the engine to decelerate the noise is much louder. If I pull in the clutch the noise is much less.
The noise is in every gear. It does not speed up with rpm but rather with bike speed. That leads me to believe a bearing is out on the ouput shaft. Is that the same as the mainshaft?
Carl
 

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Just a one time bump. I'm thinking there is GL1500 guru here that could possibly point us in the right direction.

Carl
 

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Carl, It doesn't sound like our conditions are the same. The main shaft is the output shaft and only turns when the bike is moving. The counter shaft spins whenever the clutch is engaged. ie: N or moving. My noise is pretty consistent with every gear change but is not noticible too much @ highway speeds. I would check on your bike in this order: uneven tire wear, wheel bearings (f & r), final drive and shaft and lastly output shaft bearing. That's my two cents worth and I hope it helps. Blessings! Kevin
 

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tykub
How old are your tires, age, mileage, Tire pressures, and do you check before each ride, are they cupped?
 

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tmkkmk8,
I'm thinking then that it is the output shaft. In N on the center stand, there is no noise. I can shift to first and still no noise so a load on the bike brings the noise. The noise has gotten worse especially on deceleration letting the engine slow you down. Loudest in first gear.

newday777,
The drive shaft was replaced with new u-joint and the journeyman Honda mechanic gave the final drive a clean bill of health.
I have E3's front and rear that came from the dealership where I bought the bike. I've had the bike one year and they were pretty close to new when I got it. I check tire pressures each time I ride and I keep 40 in the front and 41-42 rear. There is a very slight cupping on the rear. When I had the bike looked at, I should have mentioned that the rear wheel bearings were good according the mechanic.
I'll try to find the date code on the tires and report back.

One more very important thing. Every once in a rare while low gear, it sounds like something is picked up and hits a gear or something. I've heard that clunk about 3-4 different times. The worse thing that happened was I heard that clunk and the starter motor turned over about 3 times and quit. The starter works great otherwise. This is while I was moving. It has only done that once.
This bike shifts smooth and fairly quiet, doesn't skip, or jump out of gear. I probably hear less noise in OD at freeway speeds. Might be because of more wind noise. I can hear the E3 familiar whine, especially leaning into corners.
I hope I've helped somewhat describing the problems.
Thanks to you both for your response.

Here are the date codes on the tires. Front 0709 and rear 3308. This is interesting. The rear tire is a 160/80 B16.
The front tire is a 130/70 R18 Radial??

Carl
 

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The front tire is a 130/70 R18 Radial??
Cupping rear

Watch out! Its gonna explode on ya!
That's not the first radial I've heard of put on a 1500. How many miles since you bought it? You might need them balanced Or put in Dyna beads to slow down the cupping. I've run Ride-on in the last 2 sets of tires, E3s and now dbl darkside.
E3s cupped @ 8,000, both replaced at 10,000, maybe 2-3,000 left to them, took off before my trip in Aug to New England and back, just returned 11/29 with 13,000 miles
Front -BT45 battle ax-rear reversed, has 13,000(had planned 16,000-20,000 trip) and is cupped but minimal tread wear. I noticed cupping at @ 9-10,000 and has gotten worse. I even put in more Ride-on while at my brother's in Montgomery and still have a vibration from the cupping.
Rear -EL400 195-75R16 CT, near wear marks on center 3", very side edges have some light ridging running hand backwards, not like the E3s or BT45 though.
At the very least, I didn't have to get a new tire on the trip which the way the E3s wear going I would have somewhere @ 12,000 miles or less as I pulled my trailer which wears them faster as they are not made for much more weight than the stock bike weight.
 

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Explode!!!???
The tires have about 6000 on them or more. I put the 6000 on. I was surprised about the radial also. Had to look twice. I've got a lot of rubber left on these tires, but I am going to the darkside when I need tires. These tires do not wobble, bounce or vibrate from 0-100 mph. I can't see where they could be balanced any better. They do have the stick-on weights. I'm planning on going with Dyna beads when the time comes.

Carl
 

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newday777 wrote:
Front -BT45 battle ax-rear reversed, has 13,000(had planned 16,000-20,000 trip) and is cupped but minimal tread wear. I noticed cupping at @ 9-10,000 and has gotten worse. I even put in more Ride-on while at my brother's in Montgomery and still have a vibration from the cupping.
I run double darkside also and the front michelin I use does cup, what I do is put a coarse sanding disk on my 7" grinder, jack up the front and grind the tire smooth. The grinder will turn the wheel as you grind and gets it nice and round too. I still get about 50% more miles out of it than a regular front tire.


On the bearing noise question. If it is a countershaft bearing the noise will be worse when in a gear that is located closer to the offending bearing and lessen when you shift to gears on the other end of the shaft. I don't know which gears are where on a 1500.
 

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tykub wrote:
Explode!!!???
The tires have about 6000 on them or more. I put the 6000 on. I was surprised about the radial also. Had to look twice. I've got a lot of rubber left on these tires, but I am going to the darkside when I need tires. These tires do not wobble, bounce or vibrate from 0-100 mph. I can't see where they could be balanced any better. They do have the stick-on weights. I'm planning on going with Dyna beads when the time comes.

Carl
Explode- Ya that was in some of the Honda manuals, along with the tire falling off the rim!

As far as balance- tires on cars are to be rebalanced after every 5,000 miles wear. How many rebalance their bike tires? They wear off rubber,= weight, you might find it needs it.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
I run double darkside also and the front Michelin I use does cup, what I do is put a coarse sanding disk on my 7" grinder, jack up the front and grind the tire smooth. The grinder will turn the wheel as you grind and gets it nice and round too. I still get about 50% more miles out of it than a regular front tire.
I stopped by a friend's shop this afternoon to share with him my trip and I mentioned it might be good to have something to resurface the tire to remove the cupping as there is still most of the tread there. Good idea you have there, might just give it a whirl.

So is it tire compounds causing the cupping or what?????
I was hoping the Ride-on would stop the cupping by stopping/lessening air pressure loss and balance as you ride- which is what its touted as to be doing, but 2 sets of tires have proved that using it doesn't end the cupping. It does lessen air loss for sure. I've checked it daily to weekly and usually was at most 1-2 lbs loss, mostly less than 1 lb.
I've asked this before and gotten many an answer, and all different.
 

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i had an opportunity to work on one(1500)valkry that was abused...bad heavy whine on decell only..the rear end was shot and replaced and still the noise to our amazement!...it was comming from the tranny.
 

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newday777 wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
I run double darkside also and the front Michelin I use does cup, what I do is put a coarse sanding disk on my 7" grinder, jack up the front and grind the tire smooth. The grinder will turn the wheel as you grind and gets it nice and round too. I still get about 50% more miles out of it than a regular front tire.
I stopped by a friend's shop this afternoon to share with him my trip and I mentioned it might be good to have something to resurface the tire to remove the cupping as there is still most of the tread there. Good idea you have there, might just give it a whirl.

So is it tire compounds causing the cupping or what?????
I was hoping the Ride-on would stop the cupping by stopping/lessening air pressure loss and balance as you ride- which is what its touted as to be doing, but 2 sets of tires have proved that using it doesn't end the cupping. It does lessen air loss for sure. I've checked it daily to weekly and usually was at most 1-2 lbs loss, mostly less than 1 lb.
I've asked this before and gotten many an answer, and all different.
It is the tread design that causes the cupping. Nothing you can do about it but I put up with it because I feel the benefits outweigh the negatives. The Michelin pilot activ I use has so much better grip on the road than any of the front tires I tried.
 

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newday777 wrote:
The front tire is a 130/70 R18 Radial??
Cupping rear

Watch out! Its gonna explode on ya!
That's not the first radial I've heard of put on a 1500. How many miles since you bought it? You might need them balanced Or put in Dyna beads to slow down the cupping. I've run Ride-on in the last 2 sets of tires, E3s and now dbl darkside.
E3s cupped @ 8,000, both replaced at 10,000, maybe 2-3,000 left to them, took off before my trip in Aug to New England and back, just returned 11/29 with 13,000 miles
Front -BT45 battle ax-rear reversed, has 13,000(had planned 16,000-20,000 trip) and is cupped but minimal tread wear. I noticed cupping at @ 9-10,000 and has gotten worse. I even put in more Ride-on while at my brother's in Montgomery and still have a vibration from the cupping.
Rear -EL400 195-75R16 CT, near wear marks on center 3", very side edges have some light ridging running hand backwards, not like the E3s or BT45 though.
At the very least, I didn't have to get a new tire on the trip which the way the E3s wear going I would have somewhere @ 12,000 miles or less as I pulled my trailer which wears them faster as they are not made for much more weight than the stock bike weight.
My Bad! :lash: I just got a PM from someone looking for that size, to which he said it's not available in a 195-75R16. I just went out and double checked.

My El 400 is not a 195-75R16,
It is a 195-60R16
Sorry for any confusion I may have caused! Good memory, just short:lash:
 
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