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I hopped on the bike the other day for a small ride (200 miles) and noticed something just wasn't right with my cruise control. When I set it, most of the time it glides along just fine, but now I get the occasional surge then slowing (maybe 1 mph change).

Any ideas? I'm sure it has to be a sensor somewhere that just needs cleaning, but I don't want to tear the bike down again until the season is over.

Mike
 

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Does your speedpmetor needle fluctuate at low speeds? I suspect your speedometor cable is just about worn out. Replace the outer sheath, and cable at same time. See if that helps.
Tom Bishop
`98 S.E.
 

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I don't notice the needle change and seems to move smooth in the full range. The speed change is just enough to feel.
 

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Mike, I have the same thing on my 1990SE. I'll be watching this post with interest... Just enough that it starts to bother my lower back after a while. I thought I had a plug going out at first, but realized it only does it with the cruise on. When throttling by hand it doesn't happen. (So, maybe I'm not crazy after all?...)
 

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Not crazy at all and infact I'm glad you said something about a back ache. Mine started doing that too. I found that putting my toes on the pegs and lay my hands on the brake and clutch cylinders eased the stress. I've just noticed lately (maybe associated with my cc) that my back has hurt.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Some folks attribute this to the cruise filter.
There is a good "how to" somewhere on the site. Do some research and you'll find it.
 

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It wouldn't hurt to take the inner speedo cable out and lubricate it. Cheap fix if it helps. It doesn't take much fluctuation on the mph to mess the cruise up. It sure helped mine and I also adjusted the slack out of the cable.
 

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ive had good results with;
washing cable with WD40, wipe and lube with any good grease,, something that will be useable in cold weather if required
 

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I revived this thread on the hopes someone might shed additional light on my issue.

Riding into work today. Locked the cruise at 65 mph. It ran for awhile and staggered and cut out. I re-locked it! It did the same two more times...

Filter???

Speedo Cable???
 

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Did your yellow 'Cruise Set' lamp go out when your cruise "Stagered and cut out".

If the lamp goes out, you'll prolly be looking at one of the cruise cancel switches... Most common is the clutch (usually related to the lever-bushing for the master cylinder), followed closely by the rear-brake cruise cancel switch (not the brakelight switch)...

If the lamp stays on, then vacuum issues should be checked (sometimes the accumulators can break, but more often you'll find weakened/aged vacuum lines as the culprit.

I suspect that your issue is one of the cancel switches by the symptoms you describe, but knowing about the "Cruise Set" indicator will help to narrow things down a great deal...
 

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satan wrote:
Did your yellow 'Cruise Set' lamp go out when your cruise "Stagered and cut out".

If the lamp goes out, you'll prolly be looking at one of the cruise cancel switches... Most common is the clutch (usually related to the lever-bushing for the master cylinder), followed closely by the rear-brake cruise cancel switch (not the brakelight switch)...

If the lamp stays on, then vacuum issues should be checked (sometimes the accumulators can break, but more often you'll find weakened/aged vacuum lines as the culprit.

I suspect that your issue is one of the cancel switches by the symptoms you describe, but knowing about the "Cruise Set" indicator will help to narrow things down a great deal...
Satan... yes the "Cruise Set" lamp did go out. I have a rebuild kit for the clutch master cylinder "in house" and was intending on getting to this before spring. Should I replace that bushing too? Also... I recently had the left side handlebar controls all pulled apart while I installed the PPT switch for the CB I added a few weeks ago... could it just be that the switch needs to be adjusted... or do I just need to go ahead and replace it for good measure?

t
 

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I am brand new member to the forum. This last issue about cruise control has been my issue for some time. I am unsure if I should start a new thread or continue on this one.
My cruise has had two issues that I have yet to solve. It started out that the cruise was unpredictable in setting. The cruise set light would come on for about 1-2 seconds and then go off. Eventualy, it would stay on during the current ride or next ride.

Now when I get the cruise set light to turn on, the cruise doesn't lock on to any speed. Also, I need to be up around 85 to get the cruise set light to even turn on. Any suggestions from this limited info.

Thanks
 

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88_GL1500; yes, you should start a new thread. It will help you get info on your specific problems.

US385; it sounds like you just need to check the mounting of the switch, and/or the condition of the clutch bushing. Those bushings can look perfect when installed, but still be worn out.
 

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I have not done anything yet. I'm planning on painting the bike this winter and cleaning up some of my other issues I have with the bike. I have a bell on the bottom of the bike, but I think a wiring gremlin jumped on mid summer. I will let you know next riding season how it all has worked out :):action:
 

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I generally replace it ($5 removes the question) -- this is the small brass pivot bushing that fits and pivots in the clutch hand lever and pushes the rod into the clutch's mastercylinder -- these little busings will wear around the loaded portion of their perimeter even to the point of exposing the mastercylinder's pump-rod to the interior of the clutch lever. When worn, the lever won't return "all the way out" which is why you'll often find folks that have to push outwardon their clutch lever to set their cruise...



... taking a good look at the switch alignment is always a good thing, especially since you were working in that area recently.
 

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satan wrote:
I generally replace it ($5 removes the question) -- this is the small brass pivot bushing that fits and pivots in the clutch hand lever and pushes the rod into the clutch's mastercylinder -- these little busings will wear around the loaded portion of their perimeter even to the point of exposing the mastercylinder's pump-rod to the interior of the clutch lever. When worn, the lever won't return "all the way out" which is why you'll often find folks that have to push outwardon their clutch lever to set their cruise...



... taking a good look at the switch alignment is always a good thing, especially since you were working in that area recently.
I'm with you here... I have the rebuild kit and fully intend to address this control anyway... what possible good reason could I have to re-use the same bushing?

I'm on it...

<!--insert sound byte of "industrious" music score here-->
 

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5 minute parking lot repair: I went out to the parking lot after work. I started Babe... while she warmed I took a look at those switches on the left handlebar controls. The rubber boot on one was awry. I re-seated the connectors and worked the boot down onto the fitting.

When I cleared 1-10 headed north on 123, I set the cruise at 60 mph. It held the entire way home. 23 miles. It appears to be fixed.

Thank you satan.

Still gonna rebuild the system by summer...
 

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There is a 'work around' for the CC cancel switch on the front brake side that I had to effect while on the road this summer that anyone can do, using just a soda can. Don't know if it would work on the clutch side or not, but I would suspect it would. :?

Guess I should get off my Gluteus Maximus and post another 'How To' article.

Glad it was such an easy fix for you, T.
 
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