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Rode to work this morning and the bike died as I turned into parking lot. Did not attempt to restart....been having a bad week all I needed was "Just one more thing":sadguy:
Anyway went out at 11:30 and it starts right up smoothly. So I figure its good to go home on. Wrong. Got three blocks and died while sitting at stoplight....will not crank
dead battery.:? Pushed it up into the parking lot, got a call to SIL to get new battery. The old battery is four years old. The headlight was not dim while cranking etc.
Soooooo, The new battery is now charging (napa) and once the bike sat for about 10-15 min it would charge enough to startup and run for about 20 seconds or so. Then be dead again. Anyone shed light on this? Anyone had a similar problem? Just waiting on wife to get home and SIL to finish eating because we will take a trailer back with us in case the new battery does not solve this issue.
Thanks everyone
ps: It is the 88 model GL1500 in my avatar
 

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Might be the alternator is dirty and not putting out. Check voltage readings at the battery, idle and at 3,000 rpms.
 

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New battery installed, bike ran great for four miles or so then died, tried starter button and not even a click.:watching: Glad SIL was behind with trailer. Let the bike sit for 5-6 min. It restarted and I rode it on to the trailer. :?Got it home
and started it, used reverse to back it off into the garage. This sounds like a relay or circuit breaker to me....but I am chasing another electrical problem on a 99 suburban and so its just another gremlin. If ANYBODY has some idea where I should start PLEASE CHIME IN! when it comes to electrical its not me that going to figure it out.
BAS...acting up maybe?
Thanks
David
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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I'm leaning more toward the kill switch.

But I'm not ready to put money on it. :readit:
 

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Sounds like a bad alternator
 

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For $10 US or less you can carry a digital VOM in your saddlebag and have your answer as to what the problem is.

JD
 

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This sounds like your battery is actually good. It is charging back up while the bike is shut off. I would bet that your alternator is not charging and the battery is supplying all of the load while running which is killing it. Check the voltage at the battery terminals while the bike off and then running. When running it should be in excess of 13 volts or you have an issue with the alternator.
 

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This sounds like your battery is actually good. It is charging back up while the bike is shut off. I would bet that your alternator is not charging and the battery is supplying all of the load while running which is killing it. Check the voltage at the battery terminals while the bike off and then running. When running it should be in excess of 13 volts or you have an issue with the alternator.
 

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Thanks for the replies, I will look at the battery voltage running and stopped. You know I never ever use the kill switch on this bike. I guess that it can be cleaned and or replaced. The odd thing when considering the battery voltage and when attempting to crank it after it dies is it seems you would think the lights would go dim like there was a huge draw on the battery. Well there is none of that. Everything visually looks to be normal during this event even with the old battery. Was second guessing myself during all this as it might not be the battery.:?The bike just shuts off, no missing etc. The other thing I noticed on the way home and while it was running when I let off the throttle and pull in the clutch the idle would not come down immediately, it would hover on 1500 a bit then drop down to 1000....I have the idle speed setup over what it is supposed to be because it has the famous stumble. It is also in need of carb syncing.
 

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Hey David...

I'm +1 with get a meter and watch the batery voltage as you crank, and as you run the bike (after ensuring that the battery conenctions are clean, they prolly are since you just swapped in a new batt)...

If you're suspecting connections/relays and such - press your "Cruise On" swithch in sot hat the yellow "CRUISE ON" indicator on the dash will be on at all times that the bike is on -- watch that light as you run into symptoms. Since the power for that indicator comes from teh same power used by the CCU&ICU, you'll be able to see a fault in that source (BAC, Loose screws on the kill switch, etc) - that may be causing you to stall.

Again I'm +1 on having low or questionable output from the alternator back to the battery, and a meter at the battery will help a bit with that discovery -- Next thing I'd be poking at would be the dogbone fuse there just forward of the Battery looseness or cracking there could also throw these same symptoms... and you could check that with a meter too (Alternator charges the battery through the dogbone - dash lights would seem to be OK, since their battery source is through the 30A fuse on the starter relay - something you'd see with the "CRUISE ON " lamp...)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Ok and update, just got home to down a cold one before I did it.
Found my other meter that actually works. Battery tests 12.5 just sitting there.
Fired up the 1500 and the voltage does not increase but drops to 11.4 or so.
It must be the alternator.....as for the rest of the lights on the dash like you mentioned
(Satan) I leave my cruise button turned on all the time. At no time was there ever any
change in the way the dash lights appeared. Having said that last night my dash lights that illuminate the speedo/tach seemed dim but they have never been very bright and I almost never ride at night anyway. Lots of background traffic kind and streetlights nullify how bright or dim they were.

Anyhow it seems so far this indeed may be an alternator. I revved it up a bit and the voltage dropped further so..that most likely is the culprit.

Now to find a place that will rebuild it. Anyone here in the Fort Worth area that might know of a place to rebuild this alternator?
Thanks to everyone that responded. This group always does....
Thank
David
I will check voltage thru the dogbone too.
 

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.... ooooh, Wait for it...







... a short post from me....



... Can you imagine... ?











Here it comes ....











:?(damned double-post - had to do something...)
 

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Yep... Alternator would be my first guess ...

If you've got an air-compressor you may wanna try blowing at the brush end of the alternator to see if you're dusty or hung-up a little bit... but at 100K, it'd be worth opening-up to refresh the brushes and their springs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
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Satan dbl post LOL.....the board is pretty slow the last few times I have posted and that has not been many lately. Yeh, I am going to pull it out. Its been awhile since I had to rebuild an alternator. Not much there really. The bike has nearly 110k on it now. I am the third owner and will bet its the original. This old wing is a good one. Just right now I have three vehicles in need of maintenance. The wing is the oldest with the fewest miles. All are over 100k and one is over 200k. At least this seems to be solved. Now...do I repair the alternator or replace the back brakes on my 3/4 ton dodge pu. It has 200k on the rear disk brake pads.....hmmmmmmm decisions decisons...LOL. Alternator is going to be a bit cheaper...I THINK???? LOL
I once had a 90 chevy with 216k and sold it with the original rear pads. There was so little wear on the rear pads I could not justify changing them out as the new ones simple did not have much more pad. The Dodge is starting to squeak and I hear a bit of grinding back there but its not rippled at all it fairly smooth just a bit of noise..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Been doing forum search on rebuilding the alternator. I have rebuilt gm alternators in the past but does napa have any thing available to rebuild these alternators? When I pull this one I am going to replace the dampers but I want to replace brushes, springs and if it has an internal regulator, I might as well replace that too. Thanks David
 

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My alt was recently doing the same thing. I changed the brushes and all was well again. The brushes are cheap even from mother Honda, but I also believe Cyclemax sells them. They are a PITA to change, but worth the effort.
 

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Just ordered the OEM brush set along with replacement isolators. Total came to under 30bucks shipped. At 141 bucks on the regulator I passed on that. The alternator does not look that hard to get off or back on for that matter. It appears to be a bit tight but from the pics in my manual looks like it pops out. Going back in now that might be a challenge. I just replaced the clutch on a 1941 9n ford tractor this summer. It was easier than I had anticipated and it looked like the original. It was a bit tight in place or two but nothing like this is.
 

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1996 - 1500GL - Aspencade

I am having the same issue; just the other day, my bike shut off on me while I was driving, I pushed it several blocks near my home it started up then died as I pulled it in the driveway it died again.

I have a new battery, checked ground, checked connections and everything looks good. So yesterday, I crank it back up to about 2500 rpms, ran it for a few minutes to warm it up, then idled it down to the normal range, then it died. Seems like the display flashed, then I herd a slight humming sound then nothing....Not sure is the starter switch, ignition or the alternator can be the problem...maybe its the voltage regulator?

I'm getting frustrated and I have limited mechanical abilitiy.....
 

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Glad you found the problem.........!


New battery installed, bike ran great for four miles or so then died, tried starter button and not even a click.:watching: Glad SIL was behind with trailer. Let the bike sit for 5-6 min. It restarted and I rode it on to the trailer. :?Got it home
and started it, used reverse to back it off into the garage. This sounds like a relay or circuit breaker to me....but I am chasing another electrical problem on a 99 suburban and so its just another gremlin. If ANYBODY has some idea where I should start PLEASE CHIME IN! when it comes to electrical its not me that going to figure it out.
BAS...acting up maybe?
Thanks
David
 

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You can eliminate the starter switch, it would not cause the bike to quit running. Very doubtful it would be the voltage regulator. I would suspect the kill switch, bank angle sensor (BAS) or possibly the ignition switch (but doubtful the ignition switch).

If it starts back up that eliminates any issues with the ignition/cruise relay, ignition/cruise fuse and on back to the battery.

When it quits running, leave the ignition switch on, press in (depress) the cruise on switch, does the cruise on indicator light on the instrument panel illuminate? If so, the kill switch is working. The cruise on switch get its voltage from the kill switch. Jiggle the kill switch a little (not too much), does it appear faulty...?

The kill switch provides voltage to the ignition coils and engine control module (ECM), if faulty, the pony's will quit working.

Ah... but the ignition/cruise relay is activated (triggered) by the BAS and it could be faulty. If so, that will kill the ignition circuit and the pony's quit working.

The BAS can be jumped for a test, you would connect the red/white and green wires together.

Let us know what you find.......


I am having the same issue; just the other day, my bike shut off on me while I was driving, I pushed it several blocks near my home it started up then died as I pulled it in the driveway it died again.

I have a new battery, checked ground, checked connections and everything looks good. So yesterday, I crank it back up to about 2500 rpms, ran it for a few minutes to warm it up, then idled it down to the normal range, then it died. Seems like the display flashed, then I herd a slight humming sound then nothing....Not sure is the starter switch, ignition or the alternator can be the problem...maybe its the voltage regulator?

I'm getting frustrated and I have limited mechanical abilitiy.....
 
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