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I have a 89 GL1500 that I carb problems with over a yr ago. I went thru the carbs early last yr and had it running excelent and was very happy with it, The bike has 246,000 on it, So I ordered the 4 degree advance trigger wheel and installed it back in July of this yr and also installed new timing belts. I went on a 1000 mile ride and it had more power and ran like a new bike again. I was very happy. The instructions for the trigger wheel said something about using 90 octane or higher fuel. I have always used 87 octane since it was new in 89 with no issues ... But after the install of the trigger wheel I decided to try higher octane. So I went to Premium fuel and about 75 miles after I filled up I noticed that it started to kind of labor and chug. When giving it a lot of throttle it just sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders and would not hardly get out of its own way.
I suspected the fuel right away. I stopped and got a can of Seafoam and it just got worse. I got it home and it wouldnt idle without using the choke. I drained the fuel and filled it up with 87 octane from a different retailer. Run bad still like it was only a 3 cylinder ... I figured fuel filter, no help, The bike is 23 yrs old with almost 25k on it and I have never had to replace the fuel pump. So I went to NAPA and got a Carter fuel pump. Installed it and no luck there either. I took the carbs off and went thru them and found no trash in them and reassembled them. I then dialed them in and used 2 vacuum gauges and a digital tach. The idle speed is about 780 and the vacuum is at 15 on the left bank and right bank is at almost 20. So I adjusted and adjusted and saw no real difference. It is now idling and sounds like its running on the right side. I took one plug wire off at a time and the drop in RPM's is substantial on the right bank... But almost has no impact on the rpm's when unplugging the plug wires from the left bank. I have it all back together now and it runs and sounds great when it is going down the road and has no hesitation from a stop. Doesnt seem to have break away speed but has a lot of power. Idle sounds funny though...

Any ideas of what or where to look next?
 

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More than likely two probabilities.

1) With the bike running for a few minutes, then turn off the engine& pull the ignition plugs and check the colour of them. Are they dry,wet, black or slightly tan or anything in between? If dry then one carb is partially or more than partially blocked.

2) More than likely I suspect an air leak. You mentioned that the vacuum readings were different from one bank to the other!Since the bike runs better on the choke I would suspect an air hose is split/cracked somewhere.

Let us know how you get on.

Regards, Tony.
 

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Might have leaky joints at the Rubber Isolators, that connect the carb to the engine manifold... they tend to loose their flexability after a few years, and no longer seal, resulting in a Lean condition (that might appear on just one side, like yours).



Best thing to do is the Replace both of them... Short of that, you can remove both, coat the mating surfaces with K&N Air Filter Grease, then re-install to test.





If that does not work, then start looking for vacuum leaks.
 

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I checked the timing marks just to make sure ... They are spot on the money. I will be checking the the vacuum hoses this week end sometime. I replaced about 95% of the hoses middle of last yr. But I did not replace the carb mounts. I am going to be shopping around for a pair of those very soon.
 

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Ghost_Rider wrote:
I have a 89 GL1500 that I carb problems with over a yr ago. I went thru the carbs early last yr and had it running excelent and was very happy with it, The bike has 246,000 on it, So I ordered the 4 degree advance trigger wheel and installed it back in July of this yr and also installed new timing belts. I went on a 1000 mile ride and it had more power and ran like a new bike again. I was very happy. The instructions for the trigger wheel said something about using 90 octane or higher fuel. I have always used 87 octane since it was new in 89 with no issues ... But after the install of the trigger wheel I decided to try higher octane. So I went to Premium fuel and about 75 miles after I filled up I noticed that it started to kind of labor and chug. When giving it a lot of throttle it just sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders and would not hardly get out of its own way.
I suspected the fuel right away. I stopped and got a can of Seafoam and it just got worse. I got it home and it wouldnt idle without using the choke. I drained the fuel and filled it up with 87 octane from a different retailer. Run bad still like it was only a 3 cylinder ... I figured fuel filter, no help, The bike is 23 yrs old with almost 25k on it and I have never had to replace the fuel pump. So I went to NAPA and got a Carter fuel pump. Installed it and no luck there either. I took the carbs off and went thru them and found no trash in them and reassembled them. I then dialed them in and used 2 vacuum gauges and a digital tach. The idle speed is about 780 and the vacuum is at 15 on the left bank and right bank is at almost 20. So I adjusted and adjusted and saw no real difference. It is now idling and sounds like its running on the right side. I took one plug wire off at a time and the drop in RPM's is substantial on the right bank... But almost has no impact on the rpm's when unplugging the plug wires from the left bank. I have it all back together now and it runs and sounds great when it is going down the road and has no hesitation from a stop. Doesnt seem to have break away speed but has a lot of power. Idle sounds funny though...

Any ideas of what or where to look next?
The trigger wheel has nothing to do with your current problem. You have already diagnosed your problem and that is an air fuel mixture problem on the left side. Vacuum hoses are metric sized and suspect your ECM hose on the left bank has fallen off. If that is not the problem it is time to go back into the carbs and do it correctly with replacement of wear items and idle mixture adjustment.

Many on this forum advocate not touching mixture screws and that is plain wrong when rebuilding carbs.

JD
 

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Many times on the forum I read that an owner cleaned his carbs. What does that mean? Unfortunately to many it will be to remove float bowls and spray carb cleaner into everything visible. :ROFL:

The above not directed at the OP, just sayin for the rest reading here:cool:while the forum speed is up to snuff.

JD
 

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Ghost_Rider wrote:
I have a 89 GL1500 that I carb problems with

I then dialed them in and used 2 vacuum gauges and a digital tach. The idle speed is about 780 and the vacuum is at 15 on the left bank and right bank is at almost 20.

Any ideas of what or where to look next?
A good carb sync would have the vacuum values equal at idle - With different vacuum values, you've got the sync way out - as everybody's posting, if you may have air leaks (including torn diaphragms) if you can't get the carbs to sync with the linkage adjustment.



Once both carbs are running at the same vacuum load, both carbs will have a fighting chance of behaving similar toeach other at idle and transitioning off idle to a point where the difference in throttle plate opening is less relevant.



DriverRider wrote:
Many times on the forum I read that an owner cleaned his carbs. What does that mean? Unfortunately to many it will be to remove float bowls and spray carb cleaner into everything visible. :ROFL:
AMEN there JD... This is particularly frightening when you consider that most of the carb cleaner will stiffen or otherwise damage the slide-diphragms (really the basis for controling the air-flowwthproportional fuel mixinto the carb based on pressure diferential/demand)
 
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