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I recently put on a new tire, pulled the drive shaft and relubed all the splines, put everything back together and all seems good.

While doing this I turned the key on to make sure the lights worked, and like an idiot didn't turn it off all the way, left it in the acc position. Well this drained my battery. Had to jump it off car battery. Got the bike running and took it for a 30 minute spin to charge it up again. All good so far.

A high speeds, 3k +RPMs and 70ish mph I notice a vibration. I thought it was coming from the rear end but now it seems to be getting worse. Going 70 mph down the highway, pulling clutch in and revving the engine to 3.5rpms, the vibration is really noticeable. Changes with engine RPM, Almost like a cylinder misfiring, or a really bad vacuum leak. I think this eliminates a drive train issue but now its an engine issue.

Any idea how to troubleshoot this? How can I test that all 6 cylinders are firing? I really don't want to pull leads while the engine is running. If it is a vacuum leak, how do I find that? Possible alternator issue with the dead battery I caused?

The bike still has good power and seems smooth at idle until I rev it to 3000rpms... This vibration is new since I changes the rear tire and lubed the drive shaft.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
 

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Pull each spark plug lead with the engine running to test for a non-firing cylinder. If you had fried the alternator by jump starting, it still shouldn't vibrate unless the bearing is bad or the rubber dampers worn out.
 

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The extra load of charging a dead battery probably finished off the rubber dampers in the alternator drive. If it were an engine missfire you would be able to feel it under load and have a loss of power.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
The extra load of charging a dead battery probably finished off the rubber dampers in the alternator drive. If it were an engine missfire you would be able to feel it under load and have a loss of power.
It is safe to ride until I can get the parts ordered? Or should I park it until then? Would it damage anything further by riding it?
 

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Ok, took the bike to work this morning. I just got in. Bike started fine and is smooth at idle besides a little surging. The surging was present before I did the drive line work. Revving the engine to about 3.5k it starts to vibrate a bit but not like what I am experiencing at speed.

The vibration is most prevalent at 70+mph, at 55 I can still feel it, bit not as pronounced. Anything lower than 2500rpms I can't feel it at all. So cruising at 70mph, seems fairly smooth until I pull in the clutch, then vibration sets in. Revving the engine seems to enhance it, but I am thinking that isnt the root cause now.

So I may be back thinking this might be a drive issue? I know there is a lot of talk about u-joints going bad but I don't see how this could suddenly appear out of no where just from pulling the drive shaft. Should I pull it again and reassemble?

I will ordering the rubber dampers for the alternator later today and try and eliminate that. With bad rubber dampers, how much vibration would this cause?
 

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Some things to consdider:
-Was the Final Drive installed correctly? (eg First bolted/torqued the wheel axle, then torqued the 4 mounting bolts to the final drive)
-Is the new rear tire correctly mounted on the rim? (eg Bead is evenly spaced around the entire rim)... might want to try completly deflating the tire up on the centerstand, the repressurizing it.... to re-seat the bead)
-Is the new rear tire balanced?
-If the U-joint was removed, then was it re-installed correctly? (eg It has a Front and a Rear end)
 

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ALEX BERECZKY wrote:
Some things to consdider:
-Was the Final Drive installed correctly? (eg First bolted/torqued the wheel axle, then torqued the 4 mounting bolts to the final drive)
-Is the new rear tire correctly mounted on the rim? (eg Bead is evenly spaced around the entire rim)... might want to try completly deflating the tire up on the centerstand, the repressurizing it.... to re-seat the bead)
-Is the new rear tire balanced?
-If the U-joint was removed, then was it re-installed correctly? (eg It has a Front and a Rear end)
I installed and torqued the wheel then torqued the final drive.

Dealer did tire mounting on rim - I will double check that tonight and deflate and reinflate tonight. Count an out of balance tire cause this?

New weights on the tire so I assume they balanced it

U- joint was not removed.
 

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cory1848 wrote:
...Dealer did tire mounting on rim - I will double check that tonight and deflate and reinflate tonight. Cound an out of balance tire cause this?...
> Just a hunch... as my last two car tires were simularly mis-mounted on the rim, and this gent just mentioned the same happened to him on his E3:

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/123369.html

I suppose that if the tire is not round (eg mismounted) then you'll end up with some sort of vibration issue.
 

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Ok, I ripped the bike apart again. Checked the tire for seating and it all seems good. I think I installed the rear tire incorrectly though. When torquing the axle, I torqued the pinch bolt first, then the axle. The book describes re-install in the reverse direction of disassembly so that is what I did. I read on the forums, that the axle should be torqued first, then the pinch bolt. Anyways, when I loosed the pinch bolt, the swing arm released outward about 1/4 in. So, I saw that and immediately thought that was my problem. So I put everything back together and took it out for a ride.

Still no go. I still get the vibration above 65mph. It really does seem speed dependent now. Engine is really smooth at lower speeds throughout the rev range. So I can only guess it being the u-joint.

Tomorrow I will pull it all apart again (getting good at it) and this time pull the shaft and rotate it 90 degrees to try and eliminate and balancing issues. I will try and add more moly to the output shaft as well. If that doesn't work... I am out of ideas...
 

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I'm waiting to hear what you find!:popcorn:
 

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So this morning, getting ready to leave for work, I decided to put the bike on the center stand and shift it up through 5th. Not hearing good sounds. Letting the bike idle in 5th and I am hearing a lot of metallic clanking sounds, like something is bouncing around inside the swing arm. It doesnt sound like it is coming from the u-joint, it is lower than that, or the noise is just radiating down the swing arm from the u-joint.

Spinning the wheel up to speed, 3500 rpms in 5th which would be around 70mph, I can feel the vibration and if I pull in the clutch, I get the same vibration I am feeling on the road.

To me, this eliminates the tire as a possible issue.

Tonight I will disassemble everything once again and pull out the shaft and check it over. That vibration I am feeling almost does seem like a out of balance drive shaft.

Is an out of balance drive shaft even possible? With the way this is designed, I didnt think it would be possible to reassemble it incorrectly causing it to be out of balance.
 

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My guess, is the front yoke/u-joint assy. is not "timed" right. There is a definate method of re-assembling the yoke to the shaft, and if it isn't intentionally set one tooth off from center, it will vibrate badly. I had this issue with mine, and it took forever to figure it out! I'm looking for the diagram to post for ya here. jimsjinx
 

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jimsjinx wrote:
My guess, is the front yoke/u-joint assy. is not "timed" right. There is a definate method of re-assembling the yoke to the shaft, and if it isn't intentionally set one tooth off from center, it will vibrate badly. I had this issue with mine, and it took forever to figure it out! I'm looking for the diagram to post for ya here. jimsjinx
Thanks Jim, I have seen this article before. However this isn't a trike and doesn't have a "rear" u-joint to line up to. Am I missing something?

The "one tooth off" description confuses me because I am not sure what is should be one tooth off of what?

Thanks
 

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jimsjinx wrote:
My guess, is the front yoke/u-joint assy. is not "timed" right. There is a definate method of re-assembling the yoke to the shaft, and if it isn't intentionally set one tooth off from center, it will vibrate badly. I had this issue with mine, and it took forever to figure it out! I'm looking for the diagram to post for ya here. jimsjinx
> That is Incorrect... the (trike) driveshaft you refer to has a U-joint on each end, where-as the stock GL1500 only has a single U-joint.

The stock GL1500 does not require you align ("clock") the driveshaft to the U-joint... There is not, for example, an Index or Alignment Mark to utilize.
 

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cory1848 wrote:
...Letting the bike idle in 5th and I am hearing a lot of metallic clanking sounds, like something is bouncing around inside the swing arm. It doesnt sound like it is coming from the u-joint, it is lower than that, or the noise is just radiating down the swing arm from the u-joint....
> Things that could bounce around inside the swing arm:
-Stopper Ring (eg Round wire on rear end of drive shaft, that is normally disposed of)
-Oil Seal on rear end of drive shaft (Perhaps it broke off?)
-Circlip and Spring on front of drive shaft ( " )
 

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I have a Clymers Manual, and it shows a similar picture, and references the one tooth off thingy. Sorry if I spoke outa wack, I meant well. Jim
 

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I recall reading a thread about a U-Joint going out of balance . What I recall was the joint caps had become loose in there bore . The let the cap move outboard a bit which let the balance go off kilter . When you remove the shaft/joint check to see if the cross will slip from side to side . It shouldnt do that . I think the poster in the tread I read was able to measure and center the joint . Then he was able to "Stake " the caps back in the proper position .

I am not hitting the correct search words to bring the link to this older thread :sadguy:
 

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Ok, just got finished trying this again. Pulled the shaft, checked everything over and everything looks fine. I rotated the sharft 180 degrees and reassembled. Vibration and noise still there. But now a new noise. Hurray!

The clunking noise I was hearing now has a high pitch whine to it. Sounds like fried bearings. Question is, which bearings? Wife came out and said, sounds like there are marbles in there... wonderful

I made a vid and uploaded to youtube.

Not the greatest vid but gives you the idea.

So what now?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l79GT9cQMA8
 

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My 88 1500 does that clunking clanking when idling in gear also but i have no problems with vibration. All that noise goes away when the rear wheel has a load on it and not free wheeling and the slop stops banging back and forth. The only vibration i had a few years ago was on deceleration and that was a bad u-joint. Couldn't tell it was bad when i had it out but the new one fixed the problem. I don't know what that whining sound is you have.
 
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