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1998 GL1500se . . . 2003 VTX1800R
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I will be removing the engine on a 98 GL1500se (101,000 miles) to replace the starter idle gear (the weak link - should I be concerned with other gears in there also?).
Inked20201023_164323_LI.jpg

I will be replacing the timing belts, vacuum hoses, rebuild/cleaning carbs, all fluids etc. What else should I possibly replace/change/check while the engine is out?

Back story - bought the bike knowing this would need to be done and I am very comfortable/capable to do the work I would prefer to have as many/all parts on hand before I begin so I can try to avoid long wait times for parts.

I did some searching and supposedly (cant find the thread again) there is one vacuum hose I should order (has a short 90* bend) the rest I can use bulk hose. Any ideas which one it is? and approximately how many feet of what sizes I will need?

I have the service manual. Any other tips/tricks/things to be aware of or watch out for?

Thank you all for the amazing amount of knowledge that is on this forum. I am looking forward to contributing as I learn more about the GL1500. I really enjoy the VTX forums I am part of and this one looks like a similar type of forum membership. They say you meet the nicest people on a Honda. 馃榿

Brian
 

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Most likely it is the vacuum hose that is below the rubber diaphragm, that the carbs are mounted on. Located right front corner, goes left. it is a fair sized piece of hose, that I can't find :(

it makes a 90* left turn, and has a habit of cracking

Once you get into the carbs, inspect the diaphragms, part #4


Item #17 might be cracked, the diaphragm around the piston assy. IF, the engine can be run right now, you can verify if it is good, by removing the airbox and looking at the pistons, and twist the throttle, if they both move up/dn together, they are good.



I thought that Left turn vacuum tube would be on this page, but alas, I can't find it.

Most likely the air filter will be needing replaced, item #4
 

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1998 GL1500se . . . 2003 VTX1800R
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Most likely it is the vacuum hose that is below the rubber diaphragm, that the carbs are mounted on.

it makes a 90* left turn, and has a habit of cracking
Thank you John - That sounds like the one I was looking for. Any idea where on the parts fiche it might be located.... I have looked at them all multiple times and having no luck.
 

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go back and reread my post again, I added a lot to it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you a ton! that is a great start!! (I should have reloaded the page before asking 馃檪)
 

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I found a bookmark with a photo of that hose

.
Here I mention how I "fixed" that hose on my '94SE without taking it off
 

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Might want to read that old thread top to bottom.
 

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1998 GL1500se . . . 2003 VTX1800R
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Discussion Starter #8
That is the thread I had seen/referenced above. That's what happens when I read 100's of threads over the last week learning about this bike. Thank you again John.
 

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I would put the broken parts together to be sure all the bits are there. Dont want to miss a piece and have it jamup the works down the road.
 

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Brian, I think this is the fiche with the hose you are asking about. It has a 90掳 bend after leaving the manifold and goes across the engine to a tee fitting and then on to the ECM. It is a known weak area for that hose and it develops a hole at the bend causing a vacuum leak and poor idling.
Item #14 in this fiche.
 

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Just remember that all the vacuum hoses are metric. Look on the parts fiche to get the sizes. The problem with non metric hose is it is either to small causing a bulge of the hose on the fitting. This will crack over time with the heat of the motor and cause air leaks. Or, it is to big causing air leaks.

When I replaced all the hoses on my 88, I found bulk hose in the right size on Amazon. All the auto parts stores I checked did not carry it. Some of them with the bends, I ordered from Honda if they were still available. The hose that I think of to replace is the one under the carbs that has two bends in it. That is the one that causes the most problems.

Another thing you might want to replace is the rubber mat that is on top of the motor. I replaced mine because it was falling apart and causing vapor lock on the carbs. It was a real pain to do it with the motor in the bike.

O rings in the coolant pipes and a thermostat would be easier with the motor out.
 
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In the process of getting parts ready to rebuild my '95 1500. Here is a list of the water hoses:

Water Tubes
Tube C19513-MY4-0001Water Pipe12molded
Tube F19516-MY4-0001Water Pipe15molded
Tube J19522-MY4-0001Water Pipe19molded
Tube D19514-MN5-0001Water Pipe13molded
Tube E19515-MY4-0001Water Pipe14molded
Tube B19512-MT8-0001Water Pipe11molded
Hose Water G19521-MY4-0001Water Pipe18molded
Tube A19511-MY4-0001Water Pipe10straight
Tube H19517-MT8-0001Water Pipe16straight

Got the molded hoses from CMS in Holland. Not worried about the straight ones.

Edit - The section in the fiche that these are in is "Water Pipe". The number of the items is given here as well.
 
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Brian, I think this is the fiche with the hose you are asking about. It has a 90掳 bend after leaving the manifold and goes across the engine to a tee fitting and then on to the ECM. It is a known weak area for that hose and it develops a hole at the bend causing a vacuum leak and poor idling.
Item #14 in this fiche.

Ah, I did not recognize it in the parts diagram.
Many thanks for pointing that out.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you for your help gentlemen.

If you know of any other thing I should be on the lookout for please let me know!
I am looking forward to getting this project started.馃憤
 

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you need to change out the Cruise air filter, tiny little thing, way down on the right side of the bike.
it is usually crumbled up because most folks don't even know it is there.
 

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The motor is a tight fit, you have to pull carb's and starter to get the motor out of the frame. The hard part putting the motor back in was lining up the out put shaft with the drive shaft. I did my motor exchange by my self and that motor is heavy . I can't remember but I think the timing belt covers need to be removed for a little extra room. Also the exhaust system from front to back need to be removed. Take pictures as you start so you can look back. I wouldn't worry much about filters and hoses until I got the motor back in. I did pull hose's from my old motor and used hose's from the new motor. which every looked best. Pull as much as you need apart so the motor goes out and in with some clearance. Good Luck it's a big job.
I have put about 25,000 miles on the new motor and have very few problems so take your time, I used my floor jack, my motor cycle jack a lot of wooden blocks to do that job. I didn't take pictures of the vacuum lines and had a lot of problems with getting them right. I never do the bag thing with bolts and small parts just throw them in a box and sort thru them when I put it back together. I'm not saying that's the way to do it but that's the way I do it. I rode my 1500 on a 5,000 mile trip to the Mid West meet and great in Sept.
DSCN0902.JPG
 

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That's the last trip for the camping gear, and that picture is in Arizona on the way home. Had to buy more Bribe's for the wife, so I could get in the House when I got home. LOL I only camped one night the rest I just carried the stuff in and out of Motel Rooms.
 

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I don't do the Camping thing, it just is not my cup of tea.
I want a hot shower, and Air Conditioning blowing across my bed.

I will gladly pay the fee to get that done.

I don't think that I have ever bought a tent in my life...
Have used Tarps strung over Trot Line cord, but fighting mosquitoes is no fun...
that experience lasted just one night, back to the hotels for me.
 
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