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Hi guys,

I did a seach and found out that there are drain bolts on the anti-dive units to drain the oil out of the forks. Are there two anti-dive units (1 on each fork?) I quess the best thing to do is pull the bolts and let the forks drain over night making sure to deflect the oil away from the brake pads etc....

I can't seem to find an answer as to how much oil to put back into each fork. I have Progressive springs in the forks, so I need to know measurements for each fork with the springs installed.

I ride a 1998 GL1500----Any info would be very appreciated---Thanks a bunch!!



Mike V
 

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mvasil54 wrote:
Hi guys,

I can't seem to find an answer as to how much oil to put back into each fork. I have Progressive springs in the forks, so I need to know measurements for each fork with the springs installed.

I ride a 1998 GL1500----Any info would be very appreciated---Thanks a bunch!!
Mike V
Unfortunately I don't know of any information about the volume of oil to refill the fork when using Progressive springs. Progressive springs displace more oil than OEM springs so the amount used with Progressive is a bit less. To make it a bit more complicated Progressive springs, being progressively wound displace more oil when installed with the closely wound end down and less with that end up. The only practical thing to do is to remove the fork caps and springs and fill the forks to the specified depth in the Honda manual. On the 93-94 the surface of the oil should be 9.4" from the top of the fork tube with the springs out and the bike jacked up so the fork is extended fully. The 95 is different, 7.6". I don't know the measurement for the 1998. If you carefully measure the amount it takes to get the level set, you will know how much is needed for future refills.
 

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Progressive's instructions say;

"Use the recommended fork oil viscosity as noted in your owners manual with the following exceptions: GL1100 20 weight, GL1200/1500 16 weight."

They also suggest "a maximum of 5.5" (140mm) oil level from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully collapsed."

Hope this helps.
 

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I need volume measurements with the springs installed!!! Not with the springs removed and the forks extended!!
 

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I looked back at my notes and did some searching and found numbers of 320cc for the left leg and 325cc for the right. That should get you very very close. I didn't write down the progressive recommended level but my notes tell me that it took those amts above to get there (I filled to the proper level, then poured out to measure). If you knew FOR CERTAIN how much lower the fork oil needs to be with progressives you could use the standard formula for volume of a cylinder to calculate the reduced quantity of oil needed.

V = pi x radius x radius x height

OK - one more edit. Also found in my notes - the progressive instructions state that the oil level should be no LESS than 5.5" from the top (that is, no closer than 5.5" from the top.). A quick check of the progressive site indicates that for these springs the recommendation is the FACTORY honda level and volume - so I'd go with the 377 cc for the right, 372cc for the left.

Bob
 

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Dear All Guru.

It better way ? to chang fork oil without remove fork cab.

Remove fork cab so...so difficult for me (Do only one, No special tool)

Please advise..:stumped:

SE 93 from Thailand...
 

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surapong wrote:
Dear All Guru.

It better way ? to chang fork oil without remove fork cab.

Remove fork cab so...so difficult for me (Do only one, No special tool)

Please advise..:stumped:

SE 93 from Thailand...
You can drain the oil and pump new oil back in through the drain. If you have air valves on the fork cap, unscrew the valve so you won't be building up air pressure.
 

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If you have air valves, you can remove either the core or the entire valve fitting and inject oil from the top without removing the fork caps. I have a small funnel and piece of tubing - it takes about one cold beverage per side. Bob
 

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My wing is normal fork, notair forkoption...

I can drain the oil at below bolt of sork ? How to full in ?

Thanks..
 

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You can drain at the bottom of the fork and you can pump new oil in the same place. I only have the amounts of oil for the 93-95 models which is:

93-94 95

Left Fork 325cc 372cc
Right Fork 320cc 361cc (377cc GL1500I)

(corrected typo)
 

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I only did this fun job once but after failing to remove the fork caps (the bastards wouldn't budge), I took out the air valves and filled the forks through those small holes. I used a small diameter wood dowel as a dipstick to get the height more-or-less correct.
 

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That work fine, I've done it that way a couple times on my 1500.
 

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tlbranth wrote:
I only did this fun job once but after failing to remove the fork caps (the bastards wouldn't budge), I took out the air valves and filled the forks through those small holes. I used a small diameter wood dowel as a dipstick to get the height more-or-less correct.
You must undo the fork bolts at the top otherwise the caps will not come undone.

With 17mm allen mine came undone easily. (getting them back on is much more of a problem with spring tension)
 

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What I do is use a length of aquarium tubing (17.5")attached to a large syringe. The one I use is 60cc. I fill it five times and squirt it into each side with the schrader valve removed. Then I half fill the syringe, squirt it in which slightly overfills it and then I suck out the excess. This sets the amount equally in each fork. No need for "precisely" measuring the amount and each side ends up pefectly at the same level. It makes the job a breeze to do. I got most of the info from another member, Satan... Here is probably the most complete information that you wil be able to find: http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...-oil-changing-method-getting-level-right.html
 

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You could also just measure what comes out and refill with that amount.
 

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That would work, but would be awfully messy andit means I have to measure both what comes out and what goes in. I like my method because I don't have to think and is much quicker. I just drain and fill. I just count the number of times I fill and drain the syringe with new fork fluidinto the fork. Overfill slightly and drain the excess. It comes out perfect each time. The key is just making sure that the finallevel in each fork is identical otherwise there will be different pressure in each causing a harsh ride. With the same level of fluid and air in each, the the forks will move the same on the left and right. Thats what you are looking for. I would say this is more important than making sure you have the exact factory amount and with Progressives like I have, the amount slightly changes anyway. I was actually able to do both forks along with changing out the front brake fluid and clutch fluid in less than an hour last night.
 

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Ya know,,I always wondered why an after market fork cap was not sold for the G/W's w/o the schrader valve to make filling of the fork oil much easier. Few years back I bought new "easy fill" fork caps for my Harley & it made that job go so much quicker
 

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Robin wrote:
tlbranth wrote:
I only did this fun job once but after failing to remove the fork caps (the bastards wouldn't budge), I took out the air valves and filled the forks through those small holes. I used a small diameter wood dowel as a dipstick to get the height more-or-less correct.
You must undo the fork bolts at the top otherwise the caps will not come undone.

With 17mm allen mine came undone easily. (getting them back on is much more of a problem with spring tension)
My solution

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/111997.html
 

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very neat, see you have even painted the metal parts.

should be colour coded to the bike though :)
 

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on a 1500 with progressive springs...unless you completely disassemble the forks you will have a certain amount of oil left in the forks, which will cause an over-filled condition when you just add volume amount. the best way is to drain the oil out (after removing the caps/springs i suck mine out with a large vaccum pump.)with the springs removed...compress the forks fully, and add oil to 5 1/2 inches from top of fork tube...un-compress forks, and install springs with tight wound end facing up...install caps...tighten top clamp, and your done.
 
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