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Ok, I need to replace the fork oil and I have seen several post about pulling the oil drain bolt for the fork. I have looked in the manual and it doesn't say anything about a drain bolt that I can find. Which bolt is it that needs to be pulled????
 

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On the back lower side of the forks is a rectangular plate that the base of the front caliper mounts are attached to. The bolt you need to remove is on the bottom of that plate in the center. I hope this helps.
 

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Do not forget screw the bolt by torque spanner (20 Nm) and replace the gasket.
Btw, which oil will u fill?
I have read in manual that there should be an ATF, but for 2000 y GL 1500 SE i will fill SAE w 15 or smth like that.
 

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Found this picture on another website (didn't just paste the pic so credit could go to the original photog):

http://home.comcast.net/~rkekeis/images/drainbolt.JPG

SuzukiStorm is right. You should not only drain the fork oil but also flush it. The best procedure is to remove the fork tube and drain it. A lot of oil stays in there when you only drain it at the plug. Makes it hard to judge how much to add and may leave some sludge in there if it hasn't been done in a long time.
 

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WOW, i would not have seen that capscrew:shock:.



Will go back with the 15Wt oil.



I also saw somewhere that you should move the suspension up ands down to help push out more oil, is this true???????



Don't really want to take the fork off if at all possible. If this doesn't work then it time to save my money for Progressives......

It's gonna be a few weeks before I can get to it, got some car repairs to do first....
 

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Hey 'dere...

You don't have to remove the forks...

I just did my 1500 a few weeks ago and it makes a helluva difference. I made a drain device out of a couple of milk jugs and tapped them in place with duct tape to direct the oil away from the rotors. Open the tops and crack the bottom open and let them drain. Then, I flushed the tubes by pumping a time or two. Then because mine had never been changed in about 45K, I put in some cheap ATF in and pumped that through too... I was surprised at how much dirt and goo came out in the second wash. I let it drain good over night and filled it the following morning. It made a huge difference...
 

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us385south wrote:
Hey 'dere...

I just did my 1500 a few weeks ago and it makes a helluva difference. I made a drain device out of a couple of milk jugs and tapped them in place with duct tape to direct the oil away from the rotors. Open the tops and crack the bottom open and let them drain. Then, I flushed the tubes by pumping a time or two. Then because mine had never been changed in about 45K, I put in some cheap ATF in and pumped that through too... I was surprised at how much dirt and goo came out in the second wash. I let it drain good over night and filled it the following morning. It made a huge difference...

Did you remove the front wheel or remove the screws as pictured in the post that wpgfiremade?



I need to change my fork oil out also, but had no idea where to start on the 15, changed oil in both 1100's I had with no problem.
 

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There's no need to remove the front wheel if you don't want to do the whole job. US385's method works well. Just be sure to flush it with some clean fluid until what comes out of the drain looks like clean ATF fluid.
 

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Thanks, will give it a go this weekend......:shock:
 

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I didn't take the wheel off. Just drain and re-fill with the wash batch. Then take it for a romp around the neighborhood while you have the wash ATF batch in... just to loosen things up a bit. Then drain and refill again. Just protect those rotors at all costs and be prepared for some splash. This can be minimized by pumping the forks slowly... and wrapping things with plastic. However, I'd do it outside. If it looks anything like it does here today... this should be a premium weekend to do something like this...

It's a marvelous day here in San Marcos...

93wing...
Ya know... my entire family lives in College Station... that's very close to Montgomery County. We should get together sometime... maybe meet up with DrifterTex outta Corpus and ride the three sisters run.
 

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Got the oil changed and had a chance to ride it today, WOW what a difference it makes. I don't even have any air in them, couldn't find my air pump, but I don't think it needs any, the frontend was just as stable as all get out.
 

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Don't know about the 1200's, the 1500 has 2 schrader valves under caps on each fork. Someone more knowledgable about 1200's should come along and answer that for you.
 

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Mel, I believe all the 1200A's had front air suspension and it was controlled by the on-board compressor. If yours isn't working there is a pretty detailed section in the Honda service manual starting on page 275 to troubleshoot and rectify the problem. It was only with the 1500s that Honda started the practice of having the on-board compressors apply to the rear suspension only.
 
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