[D. Green]

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1994 GL1500 Interstate, not designed for air in forks.

I've been wanting to upgrade to progressive springs since I bought this 'Wing a year ago, but ya'll know finances......

After reading several items that changing the fork oil to a heavier weight could improve the very soft ride/cornering characteristics, I decided to give it a try.

Buddy Mark Z showed up, we removed the forks, dumped the very black oil out, cleaned them, added new seals & wipers, 20wt fork oil, and re-installed. Well, they ride and handle the same, except for the fact that if hitting a small bump while braking, they bottom out. Loudly.

After us cussing/discussing the matter, the only thing done differently was by me. As in the past on other bikes, I added the fork oil around the shaft, before installing the bushing, seal & wiper. Mark & others add the fork oil thru the small bolt hole from inside the axle mount.

The proper amount of oil was used, 10.8 / 10.9 oz as specified in the manual.

So, where did I go wrong? Ideas?

TIA

Dennis

 

[OnaWingAndaPrayer]

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Hmmmm I add oil thru the caps on the top of the fork . Well thats how I did the 1100s .

 

[D. Green]

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yup, would be normal, 'cept we didn't pull the springs.

I am considering getting some of the "air" caps, to make it easier to change the fork oil.

 

[zimmerleemark]

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both of our bikes are same...94 interstates.. 1] was filled with atf, from bottom hole....

this 1 we put fork oil, 20wt. and filled from top.

mine is strong and his bottoms out. and his didnot bottom out before the new seals, fork oil and wipers

any ideas, guys. greatly appreciated.



mark:waving:

 

[zimmerleemark]

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anyone? will the oil get to where it needs to be? is the fork oil making the difference?



mark:waving:

 

[MONKEY WRENCH]

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The oil will still get in the shock from the bottom hole. I had the same poblem with my shocks and I put in progressive springs this past friday, This is the way to go, no more diving while braking and a better ride all around.

 

[Bagmaster]

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When i put in the Progressive springs on my 82 I added the atf fluid from the top with the air caps off. No problems at all. The fluid gets to where it needs to be. I only replaced the leaking left fork seal at the time, now to do the right one as it's leaking now.

 

[buddy0253]

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i put oil in through the air fittings on top. i dont put any air in it either

 

[D. Green]

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Thanks for the replies, so far. I have ridden the bike 100+ miles, and it doesn't seem to be getting any better. There are no seal leaks, but I suppose the oil just isn't getting into the shock area.

Rather than pull the forks again, I have considered removing the top caps (yeah, I know about the spring ) so that air can escape and equalize the oil area.

Think it will work? If not, I'll just have to pull the forks, again.

 

[exavid]

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I doubt that pulling the caps will do any good other than to remove the springs and see if they are okay. Most service manuals will give the proper length of the spring. Possibly yours are weak and short. I'd check that anyway due to the poor handling you originally had. SAE20W is pretty thick for fork oil the usual range runs from 5-15W. I use AFT which is between 10 and 15. It's not a good idea to ride much with the forks bottoming out at all because if you're compressing the spring solidly it could pop the fork caps out or if it's the damper section that's hitting the end of it's stroke it could be damaged. I suspect bottoming out is more a problem with the spring than the damper but you need to check out the springs to make sure.

 

[buddy0253]

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instead of removing the caps, why don't you remove the air valves. drai the oil from the bottom and use the syringe that you inject a turkey with before frying. it works perfect. i will tell you though that the next time you season a turkey it will taste a little greasy. just kidding.

 

[buddy0253]

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ps. the other thing i do is after puting in the oil. put a couple of pounds of air in the forks and bleed it through the bottom. it doesnt take much. seems to work though

 

[D. Green]

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Thanks, Paul. Yeah, it's at the caps where I hear the noise. I figured I'd have to remove them, but hoping, ya know??

BB, wish it had air valves, but it's an Interstate...

 

[zimmerleemark]

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beachbuddy0253 wrote:

ps. the other thing i do is after puting in the oil. put a couple of pounds of air in the forks and bleed it through the bottom. it doesnt take much. seems to work though

the interstates dont have air or a place to put it in



mark:waving:

 

[buddy0253]

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bummer

 

[exavid]

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D. Green wrote:

Thanks, Paul. Yeah, it's at the caps where I hear the noise.
BB, wish it had air valves, but it's an Interstate...

You could either order a pair of fork caps with air valves or drill and tap for a valve. They are shrader valves, same as tire stems.

 

[zimmerleemark]

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exavid wrote:

D. Green wrote:

Thanks, Paul. Yeah, it's at the caps where I hear the noise.
BB, wish it had air valves, but it's an Interstate...

You could either order a pair of fork caps with air valves or drill and tap for a valve. They are shrader valves, same as tire stems.

if we did this culd we add air also?



mark:waving:

 

[Wingle]

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Yes you can, but the big problem is putting air into them so each fork has the same amount. Usually the most air you will put in is around 5 to 8 pounds, any more and you may pop the seals. So use a bicycle hand pump.

It's not too difficult fitting the valves, you can get a pair of valve repair kits for an inflatable tube or cut them off two old motorcycle tubes. They need to be at least an inch long, all metal and either drill and tap or use an epoxy to seal them in the fork nut.

 

[buddy0253]

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Wingle wrote:

Yes you can, but the big problem is putting air into them so each fork has the same amount. Usually the most air you will put in is around 5 to 8 pounds, any more and you may pop the seals. So use a bicycle hand pump.

It's not too difficult fitting the valves, you can get a pair of valve repair kits for an inflatable tube or cut them off two old motorcycle tubes. They need to be at least an inch long, all metal and either drill and tap or use an epoxy to seal them in the fork nut.

i bought 2 at the parts store for $3.00. and they screw in. very easy to drill and tap caps

 

[951Indy]

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If it wasn't bottoming out loudly before the service, it shouldn't be now. Are you sure the parts, especially washer and spacer went back in correctly?