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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

Haven't been around for awhile, as things have been good..............................up until last week. While out on a ride, had the symptom of being out of gas, but I had almost half a tank. Pulled over, bike sat for about 10 minutes, and fired back up. Ran ok for about 20 minutes, and then again the same thing. This time sat for 30 minutes before it would fire up. Nursed her home, and began reading up on the issue.
General consensus was either a clogged fuel filter, bad auto shut off valve, or bad fuel pump, or all of the above. Being I haven't done ANYTHING to the fuel system outside of the Stabil during the winter sleeping months, I decided to replace the fuel pump (using the instructions from berrysweb), and replace the fuel filter. I was going to rebuild the shut off valve, but the rebuild kit I had of course was the wrong one.
Ordered the Carter P72190 pump, and the filter for it from Rock Auto. Ordered a fuel filter from Amazon. A perfect Honda duplicate. Had no issues installing the filter, or for that matter the pump. Got it put back together, turned the key, and it fired right up. Suddenly I had a small fuel leak at the shutoff valve side of the filter. Took off the spring type clamp, and put on a worm screw type clamp, and the leak quit.
This is where things went south. When I tried tp start it, nothing. I then got my mity-vac out, put some vacuum to the auto shutoff valve, and it immediately fired up. Pulled the line from the Mity-Vac, and inadvertenly did not connect the vac line from the engine. Engine continued to run. I was looking for fuel leaks and didn't see any. About 4-5 minutes go by, and I notice a small pool of fuel on the ground, on the right side if the bike. Turned off the bike and started looking. There are two small rubber lines that I think are attached to the carb bowl overflows, and the fuel was coming from one of those.
Tried to start the bike, and nothing. Notice I had not hooked up the vac line to the auto shutoff. Did so, and then tried to start it. Took about 30 seconds on the start button to get it going.
So, issues are.....it appears that I have to much fuel pressure, hence the fuel from the bowl overflow, and, the bike ran for 4-5 minutes with no vac line attached to the auto shutoff (BTW, I started the bike one more time with NO vac line on the auto shutoff just to verify it was actually happening), which I think the pressure is overpowering the shut off.
Guys, I have no idea what I have done wrong. I did install a 90* in the fuel line off of the pump so I wouldn't kink it. Everything else is by the instructions. I about ready to bite the bullet and just buy an OEM assembly and be done with it.
TIA
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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Ya, it does sound like too much pressure from the new pump.

Before you changed the pump, did you try opening the gas cap after the bike stalled? If the cap vent is plugged you can develop a vacuum in the tank to the point the stock pump can't overcome it and pump any more fuel. Opening the gas cap and the vacuum is gone and the bike runs again. This is a fairly common malady, fixed by soaking the gas cap overnight in Seafoam.

Might be worth giving the OEM pump another chance....(if you still have it)
 

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Sounds like you got the wrong pump, even if it has the right number on the box. I agree with Denver, put the old one back in and clean your gas cap.
 

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well,
the part number is right, but the fuel PSI is too much.
I used that same pump in my 98SE w/o issues.
 

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I know Honda OEM parts are expensive but I always use them, no problem with wrong part or mis matched parts. my time not re doing the job is worth more to me than a couple dollars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the responses. For the record, the first time I lost power and I pulled over, I popped the gas cap, and left it that way. I still had the issue 15 minutes later.
I am at the point of getting an OEM one. However............................... the fuel pump assembly for an '95 Interstate is 16700-MAF-870. And it is discontinued. There are a number of 16700-MAF-000 available. They are listed for the SE and Aspencade. My question is, what is the difference? Wiring? Or is the mounting plate different?
I'm guessing that the 16700-MAF-000 has the filter and wiring for bike with a CB. And it is just a guess. I have installed a CB on my Interstate, that has a filter that came with the radio. If the difference in the fuel pumps is the wiring and filter, I will get it and wire it for what I have. It doesn't look to difficult. Or, since I already have the filter installed, I would just use the positive and negative from the pump and go that route.
I'm looking for answers please.
TIA
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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SE/Aspencade have the low fuel sensor which the Interstate does not have. You could wire up the sensor thru a 194 bulb and add that function to your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey, didn't think about the low fuel light. That is exactly what I will do. It would be nice to have that feature. Would I have to change the float assembly or is a sensor included with the fuel pump assembly?
Is there anything else different about the two pumps?
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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Float assembly is separate from the fuel pump assembly, so you won't have to worry about that. So seems the low fuel sensor and the radio/CB RF noise interference filters should be the only differences between pump assemblies.

I can't think of anything else that could possibly be different...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I bit the bullet and bought an OEM fuel Pump assembly. The one for an Aspencade.SE. It fits fine, and the bike has started and run well so far. I did take Denver Wing suggestion and added a low fuel, LED light. Only issue is, I must somehow have it wired wrong, as it is on constantly. I wired the positive to the key-on terminal in the fuse box, and the negative to the tab furthest back of the three tabs on top. Is it possible those should be reversed? Only thing I can think of is the latter, as the service manual shows power from the "Tail relay" and ground at the fuel sensor.
TIA
 

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Power goes to the light, tank sensor provides the ground. BTW it must be the correct incandescent bulb to work properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the reply. So, a LED will not work. So much for that. Now I have to find a bulb holder with a gas pump on it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Would adding a resistor allow the LED to work?
 

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Would adding a resistor allow the LED to work?
Nope, it is more involved than that. You can search here to find out how, but the easiest is to just use the stock items. Also without the LCD panel you will not have the bulb test at startup, but probably not a big deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm wondering if it is possible at all. I have looked extensively at the wiring diagram, and it looks like the thermistor for the low fuel light might get it's ohm readings from the float, the same for the fuel gauge. I'm not sure now.
 

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The thermistor is a temperature sensitive device with a negative temperature coefficient. The current from the bulb flows through it to heat it up and lower the resistance. Except it is cooled by being immersed in fuel so it never heats up until the fuel level falls below it. Then the resistance drops and the bulb lights. An LED will not draw enough current to heat it up, and the LED will light even with a very low current, so two strikes against it. While you could build some electronics to convert the signal, most have just installed a float switch to switch on an LED at their preferred fuel level. I took the lazy way out and just left it with an incandescent bulb, and even with that I can sometimes see a faint glow at night, but not mistakeable for it being on. As long as it stays working I'll just leave it. If it fails I will go with the float switch. I'm used to using the trip meter on bikes for fuel monitoring anyway, but I have been reminded by the light once or twice. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I went back out and did a continuity check between the electrical connector for the low fuel connection and ground. There is no continuity. So that makes me wonder if the electrical connection is positive, and the thermistor grounds inside the tank?
Thanks Rambozo for your response. I'm one of those guys that doesn't like being beat by an electrical circuit. (Or anything else for that matter).
With the low resistance a LED contributes to the circuit, it seems I could put a resistor inline and fix the problem.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, I think you are right about it having to be a 194 bulb. I jerry rigged a 194 from key-on voltage to the low fuel electrical tab on the top of the fuel pump assembly. The light did not light up. When I have the same connection with a LED, it did light up. So now I have to figure a way to use a 194 bulb and make it look sort of factory.
 

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Doesn't the dash have all the indicator lamp places with some just not populated?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes it does, but the unused ones are not labeled in anyway, I don't have any of the bulb holders, and it appears the face of the indicator area were the Hi Beam, Kick Stand, etc or clear and colored, the unused ones have been blacked out someway. I shined a light from the back of the speedo cluster into one of the unused holes, and no light gets through.
 
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