[CrystalPistol]

I recently installed a ball type fuel petc0ck or valve and larger auto type fuel filter in line on 1997 Honda GL1500 Trike. I initially posted in the "What did you do today" thread, but that's hard to find.

A few years ago I decided to use a larger metal fuel filter, like used on some cars. I had found that the metal line from pump was 5/16" but the OEM hose expanded to 3/8" at the filter. What I did that day was make a 5/16-3/8 adapter and form metal lines that run the fuel from tank exit over in a steady curve down the left side top of tank to the rear of the tank where I transition with a short piece of 5/16" rubber line to connect to the fuel filter, then connect same way to more metal and run forwards up top of tank on the right side where it connected to a rubber line about 8" long to my adapter to step up to OEM grey Honda 3/8" curved hose to the vacuum petc0ck.

The adapter resided where OEM filter once did. I simply took the one end of ball valve and pressed a piece of 3/8 copper tube over it, the ball valve is now my adapter too . I did this to both give me a bigger filter (Purolator F44663 … or equivilant) and put it in an easily accessed place for service (under seat rear, seat comes off fast with just 4 socket head bolts).

When a metal line ends, I started a bubble flare just to get a smooth bulge in the end to help seal my hoses, I also used a few clamps, but extra clamps or bubbled ends are very likely not really needed at the low pressures present.

I know that I can run fuel down in carbs by pulling the vacuum line off the OEM petc0ck, but I decided to put a ball type fuel valve there where it was easy to access with just opening the fuel door. The filter remains under the seat at rear of tank in a "void area".

I also removed the OEM vacuum petc0ck and bracket, slotted those two holes so in the future if it leaks (I can loosen the two lower screws with a short bit in 1/4 ratchet wrench through the gas door easily, pull it up a little ... and remove all 4 screws to replace innards in place.)

So now, I can starve the carbs prior to storage by manual ball valve through fuel door. I also have some new FI rated hose & clamps to install, but what is on it was great. Filter has a little over 1,000 miles use on it. I did replace the still good regular rubber fuel hose with FI rated hose I had bought for that … thinking it might well outlast the trike now.

The ball valve type petc0ck had one removable end so I removed it, set the plastic like seal aside, sweat soldered that piece of 3/8 copper to the smaller 5/16 barb to seal it for sure (glad I removed the seal first) after sanding the plating off the brass, then I put it all back together, straight is "open" or "on" while 90 degrees is "off" or "closed".

I didn't remove the OEM vacuum operated fuel valve because it is perfect for temporary parking like at meals, motels, gas stops, etc. The new petc0ck is for use to run the carbs dry before storage.
The current fuel filter is a cheap but still decent DriveWorks 44663, but I have a Purolator 44663 ordered that will replace it.

Because I adapted the one end of my ball valve up from 5/16" to 3/8", I can moved the hose from the "AFV out to Carb" spigot over to the ball valve if the AFV ever leaks out on the road.


End

 

[Pure Texas]

Do you turn it off everytime you stop,

 

[CrystalPistol]

Do you turn it off everytime you stop,

Well, now that you ask me that … I guess I could if I thought it was needed, like if I had bypassed a leaking AFV, but generally, probably … "no". I might rethink that. Just something I decided to add to the fuel line & filter set up I did years ago. A way to run the carbs dry if it is anticipated to be a long no ride period. I know my riding has fell off in recent years, no longer do I relish lighting out for a ride when the thermometer is in the teens or twenties like once I did. There have been times I wished for a manual "for-sure" cut off means.

Fuel pump don't care. If I try to start it or run it dry, fuel will just stop moving. It'll just think the carbs are full and not accepting more fuel, if it ever had a thought.

My GL-1200 had a MFV (manual fuel valve) and I used it when parked for as little as just all day in the sun under a half cover at work or if parked in my basement, so it's not a stretch. I was pretty regular at using it's "off" position, even developed a reminder set up to remind me to shut it "on" at start up so I didn't loose power about 1/4 mile up the road.

My other MCs over the years … I always used the petc0cks.

The trike doesn't fit in my basement, it's in a purpose built enclosure on a patio under my front porch, but I might develop the habit of shutting it off there too. Was not such a ready option with just the AFV. If I do start using it to shut flow off always, there'll be "little" or even "no need" to even leave the AFV in place? I made a "knob" from a spare key, so access to the ball valve is quick & easy enough.

Something to think about for sure … but likely I'll just leave it as is & just use the "ball valve" as a "manual back up" … but I'm sure to think on it more.

Thank you … I was running low on thoughts.

 

[Pure Texas]

I think in your case( trike) if it was ever tipped over there might be an issue since it doesn’t have BAS to shut the motor off and would continue to run till it run out of fuel but if that happened it would most likely be a total loss anyway that being said think the 2 wheel would run fine with the vacuum shutoff bypassed and not foverfill the carbs unless it tipped over and then the BAS would have it shut off before any damage occurred ( I tipped mine over and I think it was shut down before it got the crash bar hit the ground)

 

[CrystalPistol]

I think in your case( trike) if it was ever tipped over there might be an issue since it doesn’t have BAS to shut the motor off and would continue to run till it run out of fuel but if that happened it would most likely be a total loss anyway that being said think the 2 wheel would run fine with the vacuum shutoff bypassed and not foverfill the carbs unless it tipped over and then the BAS would have it shut off before any damage occurred ( I tipped mine over and I think it was shut down before it got the crash bar hit the ground)

Well, I knew the side stand switch was bypassed as the stand was removed, but after reading this, I went and pulled the seat (easy) and our '97 still has the BAS … and it's plugged in too.

I once had it cutting off momentarily, but that was the emergency stop switch causing that, it was like a "hic-up". Never outright died in a turn, etc as would be expected.

 

[Pure Texas]

My error on thinking the BAS was removed from a trike,didn’t consider the stock trunk was still on the trike,I’ve been known to do things on bikes that some owners would shy away from.Good luck on your modification

 

[CrystalPistol]

My error on thinking the BAS was removed from a trike,didn’t consider the stock trunk was still on the trike,I’ve been known to do things on bikes that some owners would shy away from.Good luck on your modification

No, you were more right than I was. Thank you.

After reading your remark and after seeing mine had the BAS, etc, I got to thinking more on it, had decided to bypass it as it's not needed on a Trike that is permanently gonna be a Trike. Went down to do some cutting and splicing the two outer wires, the "red/white" & "dark green" together, pulled tape off lead to green plug on trike side of the plug, tape was loosely in place unlike Honda did. Then I found the red/white and dark green wires both snipped near the green plug, found the two wires were stripped & wrapped inside the tape on the trike side of plug. No solder, just wrapped, but I guess it's worked. I soldered them, shrink wrapped it, taped up good. Really made no changes, but just soldered & taped what installer did in 1998. Installer is a very good friend of many years, he was Lehman, then a Champion dealer too, now retired.

It's possible but unlikely the simple twist had yet caused a problem, but was good to fix it.

I still have a baby food jar of those blue scotch lock wire splices that I went through and substituted with soldered splices in 2004. my buddy said the trike manufacturers liked them.

 

[Pure Texas]

Well I think you may have fixed something that could have put you on the shoulder out in the middle o nowhere,that’s not real professional work on those wires,I just replaced the cruise set button on mine and soldered the wires and checked them for continuity before hiding them in the hanger bar.