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Discussion Starter #41
Thanks for that info. Thinking about putting a volt meter in that spot, since I need to replace some dash lights anyway. Now, if I can disassemble the dash without destroying it, I was thinking of putting this in the OD spot. I have to admit though, I like the concept of this display (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENXz6fsfI08) and it's features, however, I would be happy of the just gear indicator could just be added to the current display.
That LCD unit is developed by a German guy, and it may be good replacement for the broken OEM units which are hard to find and very expensive.

It will fit all GL1500s (some models do not have 2nd gear signal as you know) because it does not use any gear signals, instead it uses speedometer and rpm signals to calculate the gear.

However, one feature that I don't like about it is, it will not show any number while stopping. So you will have to find N first and then put the gear in 1 etc.

On my solution, you will see the gear in any case, and since I have used the voltage of the ECU input, it is very useful to understand the kill switch position (I am sure many of us tried to start the bike when the kill switch is off).
 

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I didn't know the particulars behind his display, but I like the general concept. Yours I think I can do, though I've never etched my own circuit board. Shouldn't be too hard to buy a kit for that.
 

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That LCD unit is developed by a German guy, and it may be good replacement for the broken OEM units which are hard to find and very expensive.

It will fit all GL1500s (some models do not have 2nd gear signal as you know) because it does not use any gear signals, instead it uses speedometer and rpm signals to calculate the gear.

However, one feature that I don't like about it is, it will not show any number while stopping. So you will have to find N first and then put the gear in 1 etc.

On my solution, you will see the gear in any case, and since I have used the voltage of the ECU input, it is very useful to understand the kill switch position (I am sure many of us tried to start the bike when the kill switch is off).
where can you buy this unit?

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
 

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********

This is a --$12.50-- P&P gear indicator solution for my 1975 GL1000 K1 ...............







Tiny magnet (shiny silver) attached to the back of the gearshift pedal.....
Up-shift sensor with electr. wire (black plastic element) mounted on electr. starter with tiewrap..
Down-shift sensor with electr. wire (black plastic element) mounted on the lower frame tube....sensor with small tiewrap on open plastic clamp....sensor + clamp positioned on tube.....
Exact positioning of the sensors versus the magnet to achieve proper shift indication is a tough job......








*****



 

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Interesting, but I hear it can display more gears than you have.

You DO have a beautiful bike though.
Thank you for your compliment.

I am the 2nd owner since 1978.......
From 1983 it has been stored in my garage for an uninterrupted/untouched period of 31 years.
It only had/has 11.000 mls on the odo....
Due to a good preparation in the past it "survived" relatively "unharmed", the engine could be turned over etc. however the carbs, brakes etc. needed full inspection and revision.......everything had to be inspected and repainted.

From 2014 to 2015 I dis-/assembled it completely (excl. engine and gearbox) and "restored" it; the Candy Blue Green / PB-2 C-S paint is still the original one.
It took me that year 800 labour hrs plus 400 hrs on the internet for information, knowledge, data, spec's, parts purchase etc. etc.

Here I started with the cpl. disassembling.........




Ref. the indicator:
Indeed it can display up till 8 gears, but when mounted on the GL1000 and with true/proper up- and down-shifting the indication will be limited to the 5 gears of the Honda.......
 

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You're welcome.
That might be part of my problem, I sometimes feel that I haven't hit the "high" gear, and I can see it now, I'm in the non-existent "6th" gear. Unlike probably most (if not all) riders here, I didn't get my first bike till I turned 50, and I've only been riding the past 8 years, whereas everyone else has probably been riding since their early 20's (or longer).
 

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I need HELP, Please!

I have also prepared a digital gear indicator, for whom are interested in.

Although I have tested the circuit on pc program you may need to change the capacitor and zener diode on your real circuit.

Red line you see on the diagram will be on the top surface of the pcb, you may simply use two wires to connect those pins.

Circuit includes the control unit that produces 1st gear signal, U1 encodes the gear input signals and U2 decodes them and sends to display.
Hi Erdeniz, indeed your design is great but I need your help, for I built the indicator but can't make it work.
My knowledge of electronics limits me to follow some circuits, can't analyze digital signals.
To begin I must say it's my first time making my own Pcb, used the hotiron method, and the very first one was mirrored, I realize that after have soldered all parts and T1 looked backwards, anyway it served me for the purpose of adjust the signal for 1st gear; the lowest zener value available here is of 2.4 V. and in conjunction of a 330 mf capacitor I'm getting about 2 seconds delay which suit me.
For a bench test I set up a series of 7 diodes resembling the 7 segment, ( which is already fixed in the bike and not available) and hooked everything in a moke up ( picture attached)
To test I have an analog and a digital VOM;
My measures say that even when both IC are connected in parallel there is no power at pin 16; and 5V at pins 9 thru 13.
By grounding the leads simulating the gear switch sender I can see the first part of the circuit works Ok.
In the picture showing the Pcb, could it be that a connection is missing between U2 pin 16 and +B??
Thank you in advance, I'll really appreciate if you can lead me to complete this job.
Mario
 

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Discussion Starter #51
...
By grounding the leads simulating the gear switch sender I can see the first part of the circuit works Ok.
In the picture showing the Pcb, could it be that a connection is missing between U2 pin 16 and +B??
Thank you in advance, I'll really appreciate if you can lead me to complete this job.
Mario
Mario nice job for a first try.

As far as I see from the pictures the two red lines between U1 and U2 are missing. You can solder a piece of wire directly between those pins.

Then you should make sure the polarity of the LEDs are correct, since the U2 provides negative outputs. In addition to these 7 negative outputs, there is 1 positive output going to the display. So re-place the LEDs on the breadboard correctly.

When buying the 7 segment digital display note that there are two types, common anode or common cathode. On this circuit you will need common anode one.

Then we can continue if necessary. Unfortunately as I said before, I designed this circuit on a computer program and tested it there, it works on the screen, but in real life there may be some differences to find out.
 

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Hi Ederniz:
Thank you for replying so fast, and your help.
The lines conecting U1 & U2 are in the underside of the board, I made that trace just to be sure when I wired them.
In my picture you may see a red wire (+B) going to a common junction for all Leds, later today I'll double check for polarity of them. (I'm at the office now)
The 7 segment I have is a common anode.
I'll double check the whole circuit again and take note on voltage at each U1 & U2 pins.
Probably going to see a friend who has a osciloscope.
Kind regards
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Hi Ederniz:
Thank you for replying so fast, and your help.
The lines conecting U1 & U2 are in the underside of the board, I made that trace just to be sure when I wired them.
In my picture you may see a red wire (+B) going to a common junction for all Leds, later today I'll double check for polarity of them. (I'm at the office now)
The 7 segment I have is a common anode.
I'll double check the whole circuit again and take note on voltage at each U1 & U2 pins.
Probably going to see a friend who has a osciloscope.
Kind regards
Gipsy,
I just noticed that there is a wrong trace on your board. There should not be short between the capacitor pins.
 

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Hi Erdeniz:
Thank you for your help but NO, that picture was taken right after etching and drilling, the trace at cap was removed along with some others small shorts like the one at pins 9 and 10 of U2.
Before soldering any elements I've had checked with VOM for continuity and shorts thru the PCB.
Don't worry, I've fixed most of it ( about 70%) and very soon it'll working and fixed in the bike.
Regards.
 

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Project Finished

My work have had an impasse since my last incident (03/28/18) and this week I was able to resume to work and completed this project.
You may see in the attached pictures I'm using some salvaged connectors to hook it to the bike.
The led display is located under the clear screen right of Tachometer, wired by 8 leads of flat wire, no connector, I bent the pins inward and soldered wire to them direct, then just fixed it to the dash w/ double side tape.
Since the bike is still on the side stand, (as my friend left her) I can't cycle thru the gears so my test is doing by grounding the input of the circuit (minor detail).
That's why you may see #4 in display and neutral light on.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
Good job Mario, you should use the voltage coming from the kill switch not to have a false reading (I had 4 like yours too during the tests). One more benefit of this will be, it will work like a kill switch indicator.
 
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