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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
can anyone tell me why after a rain my bike will not start acts like a dead battery this is the 2nd time this has happened to me.1st time i replaced the starter solenoid then it started. then another heavy rain then no start again. all fuses are good any know what could be causing the problem after a rain.
sounds like something is getting wet and causing a short but i do not know what it is.:wtf: if anyone knows what it is or can solve the problem please let me know
 

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You probably should give a little more information. yr. and model goldwing How long you had the bike?
 

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Yes more info is needed. If you are saying the starter won't work after a rain that is indeed unusual, possible the start button is the problem. If the engine turns over but will not fire you need to replace the plug wires and caps.

OH, and remove your email address from your post or soon you will be getting more spam email than you can handle.
 

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Taking a wild guess I would check the side stand switch that usually gets bypassed when they trike a 1500 like the one in your avatar picture.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you probably should give a little more information. Yr. And model goldwing how long you had the bike?
its a 1997 goldwing se trike 30k miles baught the bike in 2002 with 11k miles origanal bike was just a goldwing se 1500 had it converted in 2010 to trike
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Taking a wild guess I would check the side stand switch that usually gets bypassed when they trike a 1500 like the one in your avatar picture.

Henry
THE PROBLEM ONLY HAPPENS AFTER A HEAVY RAIN. THINKING SOMETHING IS CAUSING THE STARTER SOLENOID TO QUITE WHEN IT GETS WET?:baffled:
 

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Need more detail... Tell us Exactly what is happening.

ex:
-Bike is completely dead, no starter, no lights
-Bike has lights, starter does not turn
-Bike has lights, starter turns, engine won't start
 

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Hi fred40fl, as in, "it acts like a dead battery"..can you confirm then that when you turn the key, absolutely nothing happens??..as in, no dash lights, radio etc??..or if something does happen, can you describe it please? I think we do need more detail as per previous posts,
Cheers,
Peter.
 

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OK, lets take this in steps instead of just guessing.

1: When you turn the main switch on does the headlight come on?
If not then check the battery connections and fuses.

2: If the headlight comes on are there any indicators that come on that are not supposed to? Does the 1500 have a side stand light??(I have an 1800). Since yours had been triked the side stand switch should be bypassed and it should not come on.

3: Does the neutral light come on when you put it in neutral?

4: With it in neutral press the start switch. Does the headlight go out? It should... if it does not then check your start switch and the side stand switch.

5: Can you hear the A & B relays clicking when you press the start switch? To continue on from here we need a schematic, I don't have one for your year but some one on here will have one.

When you have the info we need from above we can continue to help.

Henry
 

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Have you tried bridging the solenoids to see if the starter turns? Also have you ruled out the starter button as the cause of the problem? They often cause problems and can be cleaned/restored to working order without too much work:

Click the thumbnails for a bigger image.











The picture below shows the throttle cables being removed. Take care not to damage the plastic throttle sleeve where the cables fit. Some grease on the cable ends and the handlebar at reassembly time will help smooth the throttle action.


























When you refit the springs and contacts, make sure the contacts move in and out freely when you press them.









Once the switch is reassembled and ready to fit back on the handlebars, make sure the locating plate locks the switch housing into its proper location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi fred40fl, as in, "it acts like a dead battery"..can you confirm then that when you turn the key, absolutely nothing happens??..as in, no dash lights, radio etc??..or if something does happen, can you describe it please? I think we do need more detail as per previous posts,
cheers,
peter.
when i turn key dash lights head lights and all electric works radio all lights i just get clicking sound when i try hit the starter switch.
I bought new starter solenoid and still just clicking sound
volts of battery 13.6 its a fairly new battery less then a year old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK, lets take this in steps instead of just guessing.

1: When you turn the main switch on does the headlight come on?
If not then check the battery connections and fuses.

2: If the headlight comes on are there any indicators that come on that are not supposed to? Does the 1500 have a side stand light??(I have an 1800). Since yours had been triked the side stand switch should be bypassed and it should not come on.

3: Does the neutral light come on when you put it in neutral?

4: With it in neutral press the start switch. Does the headlight go out? It should... if it does not then check your start switch and the side stand switch.

5: Can you hear the A & B relays clicking when you press the start switch? To continue on from here we need a schematic, I don't have one for your year but some one on here will have one.

When you have the info we need from above we can continue to help.

Henry

ANSWER 1 When you turn the main switch on does the headlight come on? YES

2: If the headlight comes on are there any indicators that come on that are not supposed to? NO
Does the 1500 have a side stand light??(I have an 1800). YES AND IT COMES ON WHEN I PUT THE KICK STAND DOWN
Since yours had been triked the side stand switch should be bypassed and it should not come on. IT WAS NOT BYPASSED

3: Does the neutral light come on when you put it in neutral? YES

4: With it in neutral press the start switch. Does the headlight go out? THEY DIM A BIT BUT NOT GO OUT It should... if it does not then check your start switch and the side stand switch. THE START SWITCH WORKS WHEN I HIT IT I HEAR THE CLICKING

5: Can you hear the A & B relays clicking when you press the start switch? YES
To continue on from here we need a schematic, I don't have one for your year but some one on here will have one.

I HOPE I UPLOADED THE PICS RIGHT
 

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...I bought new starter solenoid and still just clicking sound...
...5: Can you hear the A & B relays clicking when you press the start switch? YES...

Did you replace Both starter solenoids, or just one? (There is one just in front of the battery, and another down by the foot brake pedal)
 

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If you look in the upper right corner you can see where when you press the starter switch the connection from the Br/W (Brown/White) wire and the L/W wire (Lime?/White) gets broken. The L/W wire comes down through a connector and then out to the right to the Dimmer Switch which is not shown in the schematics you provided. The Dimmer Switch is where the Headlight gets its power.

So when you press the start switch the headlight should go out. You probably should take the start switch apart and clean/lube it. I doubt it is the entire problem but it is a problem and should be corrected.

When you get that corrected if the bike is still not starting could you take voltage measurements between the following points when trying to start the bike.

1: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the plus side of the battery. With a fully charged battery you should have around 12.0 to 13.2 Volts depending on the health of your battery. When starting it should never drop below 10V. The higher the better

2: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the heavy wires of Relay A. With the relay off (start switch not pressed) there should only be power to one side, with it picked up (start switch pressed) there should be power to both sides. Similar voltages to the battery since this voltage is coming direct from the battery through a fuse.

3: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the heavy wires of Relay B. With the relay off there should only be power to one side, with it picked up there should be power to both sides. Before trying to start there will be no voltage, when relay A picks up then you will have voltage coming into this relay.

4: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the Starter Motor. Both Relay A and B have to pick up for you to get power here. If you get plenty of power here and the motor does not turn over it would be time to look into rebuilding the starter motor.

5: One final check. Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on your frame/motor. This is to check to see if you have a good ground connection. You should have 0 volts between your frame and the negative side of the battery. Due to resistance in the wire you may see a very small voltage, well under 1 volt. If the voltage jumps up to over a volt at any time when you are trying to start the bike you should clean the connection where the negative battery lead is connected to the frame and where it connects to the battery.

Let us know what you get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you replace Both starter solenoids, or just one? (There is one just in front of the battery, and another down by the foot brake pedal)
I bought just the one by the battery. if the problem was the other one would i not get the clicking from the one by the battery
 

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Not quite sure what your question means but both relays should operate when you push the start button.
Do the tests that Hanko has posted for you and you should find your start problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·


If you look in the upper right corner you can see where when you press the starter switch the connection from the Br/W (Brown/White) wire and the L/W wire (Lime?/White) gets broken. The L/W wire comes down through a connector and then out to the right to the Dimmer Switch which is not shown in the schematics you provided. The Dimmer Switch is where the Headlight gets its power.

So when you press the start switch the headlight should go out. You probably should take the start switch apart and clean/lube it. I doubt it is the entire problem but it is a problem and should be corrected.

When you get that corrected if the bike is still not starting could you take voltage measurements between the following points when trying to start the bike.

1: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the plus side of the battery. With a fully charged battery you should have around 12.0 to 13.2 Volts depending on the health of your battery. When starting it should never drop below 10V. The higher the better

2: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the heavy wires of Relay A. With the relay off (start switch not pressed) there should only be power to one side, with it picked up (start switch pressed) there should be power to both sides. Similar voltages to the battery since this voltage is coming direct from the battery through a fuse.

3: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the heavy wires of Relay B. With the relay off there should only be power to one side, with it picked up there should be power to both sides. Before trying to start there will be no voltage, when relay A picks up then you will have voltage coming into this relay.

4: Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on the Starter Motor. Both Relay A and B have to pick up for you to get power here. If you get plenty of power here and the motor does not turn over it would be time to look into rebuilding the starter motor.

5: One final check. Black or negative meter lead on the negative side of the battery, positive or red meter lead on your frame/motor. This is to check to see if you have a good ground connection. You should have 0 volts between your frame and the negative side of the battery. Due to resistance in the wire you may see a very small voltage, well under 1 volt. If the voltage jumps up to over a volt at any time when you are trying to start the bike you should clean the connection where the negative battery lead is connected to the frame and where it connects to the battery.

Let us know what you get.

I tried option 2 had full volts power to red of side of relay A but and black side of relay A but less voltage on the negative side of relay A a same with relay B .5 volts to red side and black side black side got the .5 volts with switch on same with relay a on black side .50 volts
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I tried option 2 had full volts power to red of side of relay A but and black side of relay A but less voltage on the negative side of relay A a same with relay B .5 volts to red side and black side black side got the .5 volts with switch on same with relay a on black side .50 volts
 

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If you always had the black meter lead on the negative side of the battery and you only got .5V on Relay A output when you hit the starter button then Relay A either did not pick up or it is defective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If you always had the black meter lead on the negative side of the battery and you only got .5V on Relay A output when you hit the starter button then Relay A either did not pick up or it is defective.
I brought my bike to shop they said relay was wet.that is what caused all problems.can not get my bike till after Christmas most shops closed on Tuesday darn .i had a feeling it would be something simple.
 
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