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After shorting the BAS red/white wire to ground through my test light I was able to get the starter turning ( again),,, further thought and investigating, The Green wire on the BAS has voltage on it,,

After using Two digital voltmeters to measure resistance, I have a huge resistance to the green wire in the BAS connector and the green wire to the frame back by the BAS sensor, it goes into a saddle bag.

My Battery ground to engine ground is 50 ohms,, Too much I know,

but is there other Grounds on this bike,, having several ground places is an issue in test equipment I design ( Engineer for Raytheon)

Can someone tell me where other main ground are and I can start looking,,

Thanks in advance for all the advise so far, greatly appreciated.

Rich
 

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Which Goldwing Rich? :? You have 2 in your profile, it helps if you let us know which one you need help with.
 

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Hello Rich,

The easiest place to test for power to your in tank pump is under the seat. The black/blue trace wire is the one. The pump only runs for an initial prime of one or two seconds when the key is first turned on and when engine starts will then continue to run. There is a ground wire attached to top of pump cover. Operation of the pump is controlled by the ECU.

Main ground points for frame and engine are located here in pic.

JD

 

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gaswing wrote:
Which Goldwing Rich? :? You have 2 in your profile, it helps if you let us know which one you need help with.
Probably his 1500, I don't think the 1200 has a BAS. If it is the 1500, there is an earths/grounds diode box on the bike, they can go bad.
 

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Oops Yes my 1500, I had another post about the starter brushes breaking at the battery terminal, new brushes, runs great..

now onto the next step. Thanks for the info, I will end up putting new 10 gauge wire on the battery since I think if I cut off the lug the cable wont be long enough. I wanted to find out if there was a central point where the ECU, blinkers etc would pull their ground from. The way things are going, I want to paint it Honda Yellow, since the Maroon has turned pink in places.

Will have to wait until Friday to adventure further into this problem.

Thanks again for the Info,, Thankfully my 1200 runs great ( with the alternator mod and New Gel battery, that made a huge difference in starting the bike)
 

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rich2481 wrote:
... I wanted to find out if there was a central point where the ECU, blinkers etc would pull their ground from. ...

Look for the main frame-ground inside the right inner fairing above the oil dipstick. In the post from DriverRider above, this groundis circled in white and has a fat green wire attaching to it. For schematics where it's labeled, this'll be "G100".

As you noted, the frame to engine grounding is not what it should be - adding a bit of 8AWG or braiding can go a long way. Really, though -- most of the issue relates to the bonding strength of the grounds... the conductors are present and seem to be of appropriate sizes, just seem that the hardware stacks are corroded or the bonding is otherwise weakened.

Generral rule of thumb for me is that I loosen, re-grease (ox-gard, no-ox-id, kopr-shield, mg-846, etc) all the grounds that I see as I wander around under thepanels and make a specific point to touch this G100 ground on my bike annualy.

FWIW, the other circled groundthat photo from DriverRider is G104, which is the main engine ground -- both G104 and G100 should come direct from the negative pole of the battery -- sadly the OEM design has these daisy-chained with that "flag crimp" you see at G104 -- the crimp opens the wire to all kinds of oxidation and degradation ...I'd rather run these grounds seperately (actually, a delta-style ground works well) so battery-to-frame; battery-to-engine; engine-to frame ...



Good foto from DriverRiderthough... you can see the design issue and make your corrections.




:gunhead:
 

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Thanks,, sounds like a sound Friday morning check list.

thanks a bunch.
 

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Thinking of it-- you "should" be able to see if not touch the G104 ground without having to get under the inner fairing (just pulling the battery cover, then the side cover sshould get ya there) - Kinda sad to think that G104 there is actually what your starter uses for a ground, isn't it...?
 

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I am amazed over the years how the engineering in motorcycles and cars isnt better. but then we still get the same gas mileage today as we did in the 70's with the Datsun Honeybee 210,, we got 40 MPG then and cars now look pretty, are fuel injected, computer controlled and get 40.

My Jeep Cherokee has battery issues with the cable, one goes to fuse block and one to the starter, alittle corrosion and it wont start, spins but wont start.

I will amass new connectors and wire before the weeks end, and with my crimper ( industrial one, most people have the crimper that comes with the kit, it really doesnt properly crimp lugs)
thanks again for the support.
 

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92 Intertate,
After checking and fixing the Battery to engine to frame, I still had no ground to the fuse box and BAS,, so I put a splice from ground on fuse box to frame, and the blinkers work, fuel pump has power.

is there another ground point on this bike or on this harness near the back of the bike,

and also what isthe fuel pump pressure ( 5 lbs?) I have a see through filter and gas is really not in there, filling maybe 30% of the filter, I can idle but cant rev it up., I can spray carb cleaner into the carb and rev it up or if I let it sit awhile ( I think the carb bowls fill up then but cannot continue running and revving,.

thanks for the help
 

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rich2481 wrote:
92 Intertate,
and also what isthe fuel pump pressure ( 5 lbs?) I have a see through filter and gas is really not in there, filling maybe 30% of the filter, I can idle but cant rev it up., I can spray carb cleaner into the carb and rev it up or if I let it sit awhile ( I think the carb bowls fill up then but cannot continue running and revving,.

thanks for the help
An air bubble inside of filter is normal and see it on mine. Honda has no published spec. for fuel pressure (odd, I know). Have tested mine and it is about 2 psi. Check that the vacuum hose attached to rear of auto fuel valve (in front of fuel cap) has vacuum when engine is running.

Test pump for fuel flow by removing hose that goes to inlet of filter. 21 ounces per minute free flow is spec. Reattach hose and remove hose from outlet side of auto fuel valve and retest with an external vacuum source connected to valve. Results should be similar. Use a fully charged external battery connected directly to pump wire connectors on pump cover. Be careful with sparks.

JD

 

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Already hooked a section of hose to the pump and sent the free end back into the tank, energized the pump with 0 output. Waiting for new pump to show.

Will look into the ground problem near the back of the bike, there is a black box I hear might have a bad connection.

thanks for the help, getting closer to getting her running.
 
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