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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I am getting ready to replace the left and right controls on my GL1500. I know, I'm a glutton for punishment but...I broke down and already have the new switches, I just haven't had the time to go out there and do it. I just got tired of spraying the old oneswith cleaners and still having a sticking hazard switch, cruise switch, sluggish start button, and the cruise set has been binding and nothing so far has helped. So, time to replace....

The questions I have are:

1. How do I remove the throttle cables and choke cables from the old controls? I haven't looked inside the old switches yet but I looked in the Service Manual and nothing was mentioned about either one. AndI did asearch of Steve Saunders but came up with nothing as well.

and

2. Did Honda ever finaly beef up the spring used on the newer turn signal switches? I know I had a problem before and part of the spring had snapped off. If it is still that cheesy original spring, I think I will probably add the "fix" I did 2 years ago and take out the zippo spring I added on the old switch and put it inside the spring of the new switch. That would pretty much guarantee no issues down the road.
 

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For the cables.... Back off (loosen) the cable adjustments all the way. The cables have "barrel" ends on them that fit into slots in the throttle grip's tube. By loosening the adjustments, you should be able to get enough slack to work the cable ends outta the throttle tube's notches without much difficulty -- the cables can be removed from the switch assembly once they're free of the tube...

On reinstallation for the throttle grip's tube, adding a THIN layer of some nice grease to the bar end that's normally covered by that tube does wonders for the feel of your throttle. (I use a silicone-based grease; a little dab'll do ya, you don't want that lube creeping out and getting messy)
 

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I forgot to mention that the harder part of thedealis tracking the handlebar switches wiring harness, far as I know they goes all the way down to the connectors on top of the radiator fans.
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
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Excellent advice. Thanks. I'm going to try an tackle it either Sunday or Monday. I read in another thread that I could possibly tie some string on the connectors before I pull them out and it would be easy to pull the new ones back in. Hopefully that will help trying to get the wires back where they belong. I will throw an update on this when I finish.....
 

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It's doable. I changed the left hand switches on my 1500 after the turn signal switch fell apart. It's a real PIA though. You'll need to remove the rubber handlebar covers, the inner fairing pieces, and the lower fairings. The turn signal cables plug into the sockets on both sides of the bike. It's not technically difficult but very time consuming routing all those cables. I was surprised that I spend a whole day on the job and not a short day either.
 

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When I replaced the right side switches on my 88, I cut all of the wires about half way down the handle bar, cut the new wiring harness in the same location and soldered the new wires to the old in that location. As I joined each wire, I put shrink tube on. All of this turned out in a neat package and fit back in place. With the covering on the bars, you cannot tell there is this type of repair underneath. I did this over a year and have had no electrical issues.

Steve
 

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I went out and took a peek at my 1500 controls and it's handlebar wires. You are a brave soul, my son! Just kidding you a bit! It's gonna be SOOO worth it, not fooling around with the old dried out, sticking old controls. Good on you!!!! jimsjinx
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
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Well, I went out there today and got it done. I would have had it done in less than 4 hours but with all the interuptions, it took a little longer. The hardest part was getting all the tupperware off to do it. I didn't want to cut and splice the wires and I am pretty sure that would have taken a lot longer than disconnecting the old connectors and pulling the new ones in. Since I had dived this far in, it just made sense. I ended up using a piece of electrical wire attached to the old connectors so when I pulled the old ones outI was easily able topull the new ones back in. That was probably the easiest part of the whole thing. The one throttle cable had to be unscrewed out of the housing andscrewed back into the new one. That was easy enough once I had all the wires disconnected. The other one came out easily after loosening the lock nut all the way. That was the same for the choke cable. It had to be unscrewed out of the old housing and screwed back into the new housing. So with the throttle cable and the choke cable, I screwed them in as far as they were in the old controls but not all the way in. I sure hope that is correct because I hate to go through all this again.And nowI now have all new left and right controls. They work great!!!

I now have 2 other questions in regards to the new controls.

1. On the micro-switcheson thehand brake, there are 4 connectors, 2 skinny and 2 wide. I know on the clutch side there was only1 skinny and 1 wide so deciding whichwere which was a no brainer. But on the brake side, does it matter which goes to which?I thought I read that the 2 skinny ones work together and the 2 wide work together but does it matter which skinny one goes to which skinny connector and the same with the wide?

2. What is the proper way to adjust the throttle? Should the cable be adjusted just enough so the throttle slightly turns forward? I noticed while adjusting the forward cable that the throttle grip would turn slightly forward. Or should I adjust it so the throttle moves as far forward as it can go?
 

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HI:
Concerningfront brake lever electrical connecters:
Onepair isstoplight actuationcircuit; other pair is cruise cancellation circuit.
Hondaobviously used 2 sizes to prevent cross-connection.
Hope thisanswersyour question.....papasmurf
 

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pwhoever wrote:
2. What is the proper way to adjust the throttle? Should the cable be adjusted just enough so the throttle slightly turns forward? I noticed while adjusting the forward cable that the throttle grip would turn slightly forward. Or should I adjust it so the throttle moves as far forward as it can go?
The service manual says to adjust the throttle cable so that you have 3 to 5 16th inch free play at the throttle grip flange.
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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Thats basically what I did with the connectors. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't have to do something likeBlade 1 to Connector 1,Blade 2 to Connector 2, etc...Stupid me, I was in such a rush to get the old switches off that I completely forgot to look at the wire colors.So as long as the thin connectors are on the thinblades and the fat connectors on the fat blades, regardless of the order, I should be ok. I did test the brake lights and they work. I just haven't gotten a chance to ride to test the cruise.

And I saw the same thing in the Service Manual about the free play. It just seems rather vague. Since it has 2 cables attached to it (1 for pulling and 1 for release) there doesn't seem to be a lot of free play. Does the free play come in by having the engine running just before increasing the gas flow to the carburator? I know by loosening the one cable that can be adjusted, I can see the throttle turn slightly backwards. But I still don't feel any "free play". I know that if the throttle is adjusted so the throttle is back, it will be limited on how much it can turn because of the return cable.

So should I first adjust it soit is turned all the way forward and then back it off?

 

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paperless66 wrote:
Hi, I just purchased an 1982 GL1100 and would like to change out the hand controls. Can you tell me on your 1500 did you buy new ones from Honda? Or what did you switch too.

Thanks..
The GL1100 switchgear is different to the GL1500. They isn't cheap from Honda so used has to be the better option.
 

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Thanks. I just cant see to find any hand controls in good condition. I was hoping to find someone that has found an after market product, something like K&S. I know there are lots of Harley products out there but very little for our bikes.
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·

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Hi Mike, again thank you. I found the new right hand switch but the left one is no longer available. The ones on eBay look a little too used for my restoring. I really wanted them to match. I'll make a note on the right hand switch and hopefully I can get a set to match either from another source besides Honda. I don’t mind doing so rewiring as long as the end the project looks good.
 

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pwhoever wrote:
Well, I went out there today and got it done. I would have had it done in less than 4 hours but with all the interuptions, it took a little longer. The hardest part was getting all the tupperware off to do it. I didn't want to cut and splice the wires and I am pretty sure that would have taken a lot longer than disconnecting the old connectors and pulling the new ones in. Since I had dived this far in, it just made sense. I ended up using a piece of electrical wire attached to the old connectors so when I pulled the old ones outI was easily able topull the new ones back in. That was probably the easiest part of the whole thing. The one throttle cable had to be unscrewed out of the housing andscrewed back into the new one. That was easy enough once I had all the wires disconnected. The other one came out easily after loosening the lock nut all the way. That was the same for the choke cable. It had to be unscrewed out of the old housing and screwed back into the new housing. So with the throttle cable and the choke cable, I screwed them in as far as they were in the old controls but not all the way in. I sure hope that is correct because I hate to go through all this again.And nowI now have all new left and right controls. They work great!!!

I now have 2 other questions in regards to the new controls.

1. On the micro-switcheson thehand brake, there are 4 connectors, 2 skinny and 2 wide. I know on the clutch side there was only1 skinny and 1 wide so deciding whichwere which was a no brainer. But on the brake side, does it matter which goes to which?I thought I read that the 2 skinny ones work together and the 2 wide work together but does it matter which skinny one goes to which skinny connector and the same with the wide?

2. What is the proper way to adjust the throttle? Should the cable be adjusted just enough so the throttle slightly turns forward? I noticed while adjusting the forward cable that the throttle grip would turn slightly forward. Or should I adjust it so the throttle moves as far forward as it can go?
What pieces of tupperware had to be removed?

I don't want to remove any that don't need it.
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
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Quite a bit. You have to remove the handlebar covers, the ignition surround cover, both the left and right dash pockets, the inside plastic insert thingies under the ignition cover, left and right fairing trim, and the lower cowls. I am almost positive that I didn't need to take off the radio shelter or the right and left false tank shelters. Actually, with the handlebar covers, al you have to do is remove the 2 screws and trim piece to pull the old wiring out and then route the new wiring. The screws are a pain to get back in and are very tiny. Also, there will be several "zip ties" along the length of wiring that need to be popped open to remove the old wiring. These are needed because when the new wiring is installed, they help to keep the wiring routed properly and keep slack for turning the handlebars. It is a pretty major undertaking but if you take your time, it can be done.
 

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Pwhoever
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
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Just thinking out loud... If you are going to dive that far into it, this would be a good time to also remove the left and right false tank shelters to check the sub air filter and cruise filter along with changing out the gas filter and checking your air filter. Get as much PM done while you are in there. But this would also involve taking off the seat, left and right side covers, carb covers and the radio shelter.
 
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