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Guys, I just recently got my wing back. Long story... :)

Anyway, I don't know if the bike had sat for a bit, or if it was ridden, but I've got a case of the stumbles. On take off, the bike stumbles pretty bad if I'm not aggressive on the throttle..Once moving, if I ease into the throttle, she comes ALIVE after about 3000. Here's something weird tho...Top gear, 2000 RPM, hard, immediate full throttle results in SEVERE miss, and zero rpm increase. If I back off the throttle, and ease into it, she behaves herself. Things I've checked:

1. Accelerator pumps

2. Vacuum leaks (WD40 around carbs)

3. Air Filter

4. Carb Sliders

5. Choke appears to be disengaging



Going to check/do:

1. Spark plugs

2. Sea foam (how much should I use? I've seen 1/2 can towhole canper tank)

3.Carb balance (really don't want to tho... )



Any otherideas?



Thanks in advance!
*EDIT--I don't know if its related or not, but the bike appears tobe overheating slightly...
 

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There is no timing adjustment or spark advance on a 1500, it's all controlled electronically. You may have 2 problems, ignition breakdown and plugged low speed jets. Put a whole can of seafoam in a tank and run it out then see what happens.
 

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Thanks for the input folks. I think I have it narrowed down to the idle circuit. Took off some plastic, and verified that the enrichment plungers were, in fact, actuating. Checked spark plugs. Fuel filter. Spark.
As Dave said, I'm gonna run a can of seafoam thru her, go from there.
Dave, how quickly, if the seafoam works, should I see any results?
Thanks again!
 

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Seafoam can work quickly in the idle and transition ports, jets may need a bit more time -- Common "rule of thumb" for a idle/jet issue would be to dump the full can into the tank and run enough fule to ensure that your carbs are full of the aditive mixture... then park it overnight (at least) and run it up in the morning.

Some folks will offer that you can open the air boxk and use your hand to snuff-out the air from one carb at a time -- temporarily increasing the vacumm (force) at the idle and transition ports above nominal to help draw the cleaner through those passages. For this to be effective it helps to be at moderate throttle (off idle & smooth ~1500rpm) when you try it...

Since the 1500 CV carbs do not use an air cut-off internally, allowing the throttles to slap closed has a similar effect (the slides lose their vacuum signal as the throttle plate closes and shut rapidly -- the "draw" of teh higher vacuum below the throttle plate will hit the idle port. Adjusting your idle a bith higher (950-1000) can include the transition port here as well.

As it begins to behave - normal, or "Grand-Theft-Auto" type of riding will help assure that things are exercized :p
 

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Thanks for the info!!

So, I've got maybe 1/2 gal of fuel in her right now....Should I pour the fuel in as she sits, run her for a while, then let her sit? Or put a little more fuel in her? Will the naptha in the Seafoamhurt anything if the concentration is too high?
 

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lestat210 , follow satans advise and follow the directions on the Seafoam can.
Its best to let the seafoam treated gas sit in the carbs. for a day or two to let it soften up the nasties then run it hard to hopefully flush out .
 

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I pour in a full can of SF with only a gallon of fuel in the tank. That makes for a much stronger mixture, the fouled idle circuits need this at first.

Ride the bike for 15 minutes to make sure the fuel and SF mixture is well stirred.

Let the bike then idle for a half hour and shut it off. I let mine soak for 3 days because it was raining cats and dogs anyway.

The next time out, it was a miracle. All of that crappy stuff just off idle mostly gone.

I continue to run a full can of SF to a full tank of fuel for about 2 more tanks of fuel.

Then play it by ear. If all is smooth, then retreat every 3 to 6 months.

If you leave it sit with partial tank of fuel, you are inviting trouble.

I always top off the tank before I put it back in the garage. Make sure you start it and ride briefly once a week at most. You don't want the fuel to set up again.
 

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Well, I've got the SF in, and am waiting it out. I wanna say a thank you to all that have pushed me in the the right direction. We'll see how it turns out. I'll be back to post the results!!

Thanks again eveyone
 

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The slow jets are a real bear to clear. If there is a clog of the dissolve-able nature it will work. But if you have a speck of rust or some other solid particle in the slow jet then your in trouble. (rebuild)

The stronger the better in terms of your additive/fuel ratio. Another good product I have tried is chevron injector cleaner. Unfortunately my clog is of the uncooperative kind. I hope your story has a happier ending.


RED
 

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Here is hoping for the soft varnish type clog ....
 

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Me too......

I am struggling to remember a happy ending with a slow jet clog on the silent six. Let this be one.

Lord.....wiggle thy finger into this clog and dissolve it. Lord if it be solid....let it be dislodged.


LOL.

This did not work for me but it might for you friend. I am due for a trip to venco wings for a rebuild after this season. Under way.....my old girl runs like a Swiss watch and I cant come up with the 600 smackers right now.


RED
 

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LOL! Thanks guys, your cracking me up! And yes, I hope its the easily desolveable type too!!
 

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So, she's still sitting in the garage soaking. In the meantime, I've got a few more questions. Is it possible that the petcock is leaking fuel back into the left side of the engine where it picks up vacuum? Also, ignition breakdown was mentioned earlier. How would I be able to check for that?
Thanks again
 

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The vacuum petcock is 2 diaphargms linked by kinda a "hollow bead". For fuel to leak thought both - you wouod have had the fuel side break and the vacuum side break -- typically, if the vacuum side breaks then the valve would shut -- if the fuel side fails, you'd have a wet-petcock leak (I hate that :p ) So prolly not, but no sense to rule that out - you can always smell the questionable hose, or just tru to light it with a match (scary, but suprizingly effective since the lines wouldn't light normaly)... You could also plug the existing hose and route one temporarly just to see (not as much fun though)

Wires and plugs and stuff do fail -- since it's one cylinder (not two) you can elminiate talking about the coil drivers so issues would be localized to the plug and wire. Listening to and watching the wire can help to identify leaky wires... or just reach in there and trace a screwdriver along the length of the wire as the engine's running to see if you get the piss shocked outta ya - nothing terribly deadly, but a good jiggle... the plug bit is easy -- swap it to another hole and see if the trouble follows the plug (I'd say swap the wire side to side as you can do on the 4-cyls, but the 1500's coils are kinda deeper in and less friendly for that kinda play. )

Do not overlook the gap on the opposite-side plug ... if there;s a huge dispariety in plug gap, the wasted spark ignition may end-up "using" the spark up in a very narrow gap leaving your questionable cylinder (wider gap) lacking -- not often an issue unless teh plug has been compromised or the opposite side has some mechanical damage
 

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***UPDATE***
Well after letting her soak for about 30 hours or so, I fired her up, and .... no joy. Still stumbled..almost worse than before!?! Opened her up a bit, and was she felt okay-ish, so I brought her home, and contemplated my next move. Decided to pull the carbs, take a look in there for some obvious problems. Among other things I noticed was, the right carb wasn't even seated!! And the left carb clamp wasn't tight either?!? Decided that since I already had the tupperware off, I'd go ahead and finish it. Found two vacuum hoses with holes and slides were sliding a little rough. Don't know why the good ol WD40 vacuum leak trick didn't catch it? Anyway, I slapped her back together, and VOILA! She's back to her old self again. Man, I love the ride when she's runnin' good. Thanks to all that helped! Very much appreciated here in Houston!
 

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In my opinion the wd40 would not be my choice. Not flammable enough to show increased idle and a bit messy for my taste. I used starter fluid when I was looking for leaks in mine.

Sounds like someone has been in your bike and fouled it up. But glad to hear you sorted it out.


RED
 
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