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Discussion Starter #44
Again help needed

So was doing a little progress but still have problem with turn signal relay.
Mine OEM is broken but I want to change to led anyway and have one instaled that works but no canceling when pushing.Can cancel turn when move a knob a bit in opposite side. I do open up the left hand switches with turn knob and that is sonething I see it for first time. Usually when pushed the black plastic thing (see pic No1) is back to migddle position but here not. How does it works???


Second case may be more difficult, so I decided to remove reverse because it is working randomly and I do not have to much place for electronic stuff...but...when disconnect red plug (see pic No2) can not start the engine, no starter engaged. So the question is how to remove all that stuff after red plug (connected to rev) and to keep engine running, if that possible. On the third pic is showing the future seat drawing.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well. I see nobody is home. I handle by myself removing all reverse stuff keeping engine running. :welc:

But maybe a big deeper studies about turn signal relay?
 

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I think the reason you may not be getting many replies is that you are into something that most of us have not done. We are into repairing them, More those guys than me, I am just learning these bikes. So basically you are digging into re-engineering the systems to do something different then what it was designed to do. These guys mostly are into repairing the systems to do what they were supposed to do. Two different directions with the same end sort of. When I had my automotive business my specialties were carburetors and electrical. The problem for me now is carburetors are mostly gone and electrical has moved far ahead with LEDS and such. People call them LED bulbs. That is 100% wrong. The name says it all, LED Light Emitting Diode. It is a Diode, not a light. It just happens to produce light in the process of doing its job as a diode.
 

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So basically it is just about all of the ECU grounds that tell the engine that it can or cannot run. Given that info you should be able to work around the reverse stuff you want to remove and keep the stuff needed to keep the engine running. Be very careful playing with that stuff with the battery connected and ESPECIALLY with the engine running. One wrong wire off or crossed and you will wipe out the ECU computer and they ain't cheap! I am sure you already know from playing with other high end bikes that the computers work off of the ground circuits and not the power side so this stuff is all hot for the most part. Also note that the grounds have GOT to be good or no joy on starting.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I managed to cut off all reverse stuff. Whole red pin connector is only for reverse purposes apart from diodes. When bypass diodes all works flawesly. For now all electric gizmos are as I wanted to be. All works, only the last thing for now is turn signal relay. Hazard works on chinese cheap electronic "relay" but turn signal have no cancel function so that is the case I'd love to get help with. The last case I want to do is to keep oem relay and resistors. Just want someone to give me info how he did it (for LED turns of course).
 

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All works, only the last thing for now is turn signal relay. Hazard works on chinese cheap electronic "relay" but turn signal have no cancel function so that is the case I'd love to get help with. The last case I want to do is to keep oem relay and resistors. Just want someone to give me info how he did it (for LED turns of course).
OK, is the turn signal relay you have compatible with the system? The OEM relay has a ground that is controlled by the cancel unit in the steering head. When you select a turn signal the cancel unit grounds the relay and causes it to flash. When you push the cancel button or the unit does it on it's own it simply removes the ground from the relay, the switch itself has nothing to do with cancelling, it is only a momentary switch that activates the cancel unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
OK, is the turn signal relay you have compatible with the system? The OEM relay has a ground that is controlled by the cancel unit in the steering head. When you select a turn signal the cancel unit grounds the relay and causes it to flash. When you push the cancel button or the unit does it on it's own it simply removes the ground from the relay, the switch itself has nothing to do with cancelling, it is only a momentary switch that activates the cancel unit.



Yes, indeed the switch has nothing mechanicaly to do to cancel turn signals, but previously in all my bikes (mean oldies but goldies) turn signal was turned off because of mechanical switch, now that is new for me. Now I do understand how it works in general but stil have no idea what kind of after market relay for led should I use. All I tried so far do not work, mean the cancelation function. I attached pictures so how looks like the rear end wire loom finished (engine works) and picture of seat scratch.
 

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Yes, indeed the switch has nothing mechanicaly to do to cancel turn signals, but previously in all my bikes (mean oldies but goldies) turn signal was turned off because of mechanical switch, now that is new for me. Now I do understand how it works in general but stil have no idea what kind of after market relay for led should I use. All I tried so far do not work, mean the cancelation function.
Does it work except for blinking too fast with the original relay installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Does it work except for blinking too fast with the original relay installed?

Well, my oem relay is probably dead so I can not tell but earlier all was working with only front led turn signals but fast. Now with that chainese relay all woks appart from canceling, but if I do not find better solution will come back to oem relay and resistors which is the worst idea.
 

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There are 2 relays, 1 for the turn signals and 1 for the 4 way flashers. They are the same, if you have the other one still try it. If the cancel works then you know the flasher relay is the problem. I see no reason why just 1 resistor tied to the grey wire from the flasher and to ground wouldn't do the same thing as resistors on all 4 lights. Also I don't see why you have to use LEDs.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
There are 2 relays, 1 for the turn signals and 1 for the 4 way flashers. They are the same, if you have the other one still try it. If the cancel works then you know the flasher relay is the problem. I see no reason why just 1 resistor tied to the grey wire from the flasher and to ground wouldn't do the same thing as resistors on all 4 lights. Also I don't see why you have to use LEDs.

When I bought the bike turn signals were not working so I did exchange relay with hazard and were working. So do not have one to try now. Hazard on/of button works on other principles than canceling turn signals that is the reaso why chinese relay works without problem. Why LED??? Because that fits better to my project, small powerfull diodes. If I do not have choice will buy turn oem relay and use one resistor. Just wanted to avoid all that mess and just chnge one relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
fuel pump

OK,my GL 1500is in progress but I just **** up something. Was sure to be more wise but this time bike cheats me. But from beginning:
I removed cruise and rev and all rear end wireloom that was for that purpose. After all removal before secure wires again I checked if all works, mainly if engine starts, and was not a problem at all. I did not even use choke just push starter buton on idling all all start up and works. So if all works flawessly I pushed out of the garage today to ride a bit and see how all works. Engine dies after 30 seconds, no fuel:| . Fuel pump is not working. So when I did start the engine for while it was fuel in float chamber and I did not recognized that fuel pump is not working. I'm sure I screw up something with wireloom because when connect plus from battery (black/blue) I hear pump. And after dozen seconds I can start the engine. No power on fuel pump. How I could possibly cut something in rear wireloom that is connected to fuel pump?? Where is fuse or something that can be damaged on the way? On the left side all fuses are ok. I;m sure that must be something simple that I just screw up.
 

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Yours would have a fuel pump relay, not sure where it is because I don't have a manual for that model but I think it is somewhere in the rear.
 

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OK,my GL 1500is in progress but I just **** up something. Was sure to be more wise but this time bike cheats me. But from beginning:
I removed cruise and rev and all rear end wireloom that was for that purpose. After all removal before secure wires again I checked if all works, mainly if engine starts, and was not a problem at all. I did not even use choke just push starter buton on idling all all start up and works. So if all works flawessly I pushed out of the garage today to ride a bit and see how all works. Engine dies after 30 seconds, no fuel:| . Fuel pump is not working. So when I did start the engine for while it was fuel in float chamber and I did not recognized that fuel pump is not working. I'm sure I screw up something with wireloom because when connect plus from battery (black/blue) I hear pump. And after dozen seconds I can start the engine. No power on fuel pump. How I could possibly cut something in rear wireloom that is connected to fuel pump?? Where is fuse or something that can be damaged on the way? On the left side all fuses are ok. I;m sure that must be something simple that I just screw up.

This post here identified a device you were asking about as a fuel pump relay.


https://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/5825185-post29.html
 

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Discussion Starter #59

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yes,
Green is always supposed to be Ground to the bike's frame, and from the frame to the battery Negative post.


The harness hides a lot of common ground connections.
 
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