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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all...

As an update, I upgraded my dash lights to blue LED some time ago. But I was never really happy with it. The blue LEDs were way too bright on the LCD panel, and the speedo was not bright enough at about the 1:00 area (55-85MPH). The same with the Tach at about the 11:00 area.

I talked then about the doing it in red LEDs. Today I began that project, along with sealing the circuit board on the LCD clock to prevent the moisture problem (after first checking to be sure the clock was functioning properly).
And instead of fighting with trying to reach the speedo cable, I decided it was easier to just disconnect the cable at the front wheel, this way it gives me much more slack to pull the dash out. That was actually as good idea. and, since I had that out, I might as well lube the cable.

Anyway, I switched all the illuminating LEDs to red. I think I might like it better. I hope so because I don't want to disassemble the dash again...:thumbsdown:

So, first thing I noticed was the LCD was really dark and hard to read. This was solved by removing the blue filter inside the LCD panel...




However, that caused a hotspot in the LCD...




Which was solved by hot-glueing some paper to the small prism at the bottom of the LCD...



Which left the LCD panel bright and evenly lit (but not too bright).

However... The last problem has not been corrected by switching the red LEDs- the missing light around the 1:00 area on the speedo and 11:00 on the tach. The hotspot on the LCD area shown here is only on camera, it is not visible to the eye.



There does not seem to be an easy fix to this. About the only thing I can think of is to place small red LEDs around the rear of each dial to fill in where the regular illuminating LED doesn't quite reach. Or, put some plastic to extend the existing LED light to those dark areas.




Any thoughts on this?

I want my bike back together so I can ride... I *might* have some extra red LEDs floating around- I certainly am not going to order them and wait for delivery before I put it back together.

What is the kind of plastic that bends and extends the light?

Awaiting your opinions or ideas on this...
 

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Premium Member
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do you have any model cars ? actually the left over parts tree from a model car . IF you have that part tree which had the headlamps /winshield ect . I think a piece of that round stock of the tree would carry light as though it was a fibre optic. After you cut a section out I believe you would have to sand the ends flat and polish the ends for the light to pass thru it good .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do you have any model cars ? actually the left over parts tree from a model car . IF you have that part tree which had the headlamps /winshield ect . I think a piece of that round stock of the tree would carry light as though it was a fibre optic. After you cut a section out I believe you would have to sand the ends flat and polish the ends for the light to pass thru it good .
Hmmm.... no model car stuff... but maybe I can find some plastic rod to use... What kind should I look for? Where?
 

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Still Learning
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If you have some leftover windshield from cutting yours down or get some 1/4" acrylic/Lexan sheet at HD or Lowes. That will form with a heat gun on low, cut a strip @ 1" wide to glue around the edge of the gauge. you will need to sand the edges real smooth, down to 180 or 220 grit paper then hit the edges lightly with a propane torch to slightly melt the edges to clear it out after sanding all the lines out of the edges, then heat the whole surface surface till bendable (not too much heat to burn it) and then form to the shape with a mold (make to the size of the edge you want) to attach it to, while it cools and sets. That will act like the piece that is at the 35 mph area (cut this off) to refract the light around the whole edge of the gauge and help eliminate that hot spot. It will act like a windshield light kit does.

http://www.owllighting.com/assets/lighting/windshields/straightkit.jpg

See how the light bar is at the base of the windshield, to light the edges all around the windshield
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you have some leftover windshield from cutting yours down or get some 1/4" acrylic/Lexan sheet at HD or Lowes. That will form with a heat gun on low, cut a strip @ 1" wide to glue around the edge of the gauge. you will need to sand the edges real smooth, down to 180 or 220 grit paper then hit the edges lightly with a propane torch to slightly melt the edges to clear it out after sanding all the lines out of the edges, then heat the whole surface surface till bendable (not too much heat to burn it) and then form to the shape with a mold (make to the size of the edge you want) to attach it to, while it cools and sets. That will act like the piece that is at the 35 mph area (cut this off) to refract the light around the whole edge of the gauge and help eliminate that hot spot. It will act like a windshield light kit does.

http://www.owllighting.com/assets/lighting/windshields/straightkit.jpg

See how the light bar is at the base of the windshield, to light the edges all around the windshield

WOW!!! I *LOVE* that jpg... It is EXACTLY what I what I had in my mind for another project-except I was thinking amber...
 

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The Irish Crew
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Green is about the lowest colour for hotspots, assuming you can get green LEDs. Red and blue are the worst offenders and throw the hotspot a long distance.
 

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Oh - THAT guy...
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A person a while back stuck a small 'diffuser disc' on the LED itself to help spread the light and he said it got rid of the hot/cold spots (bright/dark spots). I did the LED conversion and used blue myself. It is a bit uneven in brightness, but even the dark spots are easy to read at night. I do know that red affects night vision less than many other colors so it may well be a great choice. See if you can search and find out who it was that glued small discs on their LED's. It seemed a pretty easy solution.
 
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