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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok fellow Wingers, this may be a stupid question but here goes. In my owners manual the maint. schedule only goes to 24,000 miles. After you pass that mileage, do you start over and do whats listed every 4,000 miles? I am at 63,000. It looks like they have it broken up into 4,000 mile sections.

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Ok fellow Wingers, this may be a stupid question but here goes. In my owners manual the maint. schedule only goes to 24,000 miles. After you pass that mileage, do you start over and do whats listed every 4,000 miles? I am at 63,000. It looks like they have it broken up into 4,000 mile sections.

Thanks
They weren't suppose to go more than 24,000 miles!:ROFL::ROFL:

Yes, just start over at 4k intervals.
 

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Junior Grue
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They weren't suppose to go more than 24,000 miles!:ROFL::ROFL:
And they weren't suppose to last 30+ years.:shock:
You were suppose to buy a new one every three to five years.

It seems no one reads the fine (micro) print in the original sales contract.:lash:
 

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Next year, my gl1000 is going to be older than me!! Wait a minute, that doesn't sound right....
 

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It aint rocket science
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Time is another consideration, some guys ride 3k miles per year and think that replacement is not necessary.

Eight years later they wonder why their carbs are plugged up with whats left of a fuel filter or any other type of filter in the machine.:)
 

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Alot to me depends on how much you actually ride your bike. I normally only change the oil every 3000 miles and ride. But I ride ALOT. Then for fun, you can change filters, and little things. If you don't ride as much the filters might get clogged up more and the carbs can develp deposits from sitting, requiring more work. One old guy on the forum told me once to put gas in, keep oil changed, and ride it like you stole it. Trying not to let him down!:ROFL::bow:
 

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Wait a minute!
You don't have to do maintenance past 24,000 miles. That's where the book stops and that's where the work stops.
Why put yourself through the math?
 

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Yes, for the most prt you can repeat stuff from that point on (past 24k). Many people will have their own schedules for their own reasons. For example:
Annually (regardless of mileage)- Oil gets done 3 or 4 times, clean the air filter, inspect the cruise/pre filters and replace them evry 2-3 years, drain/refill rear end, flush hydraulic fluids, remove wheel and grease drive splines. Also now I grease the brake slider pins after my issue a couple years ago. Every two years I do the above and replace the plugs, check carb sync, drain coolant. Fork oil? I will probably do it every few years (some say annually). Belts? Did them at 89k so I am good for at leats 75 more k.
I am sure I forgot a few things, but I am only 1/2 way through my coffee...
Brake pads as needed- if they are getting close I will be easy on them if it is safe until the next annual maint period (this week for me)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maintenance Question

WoW Thanks for all the info, I knew my fellow Wingers would come up with some great advise! I do ride it often, that's what there made for right? I will surely need to change the cruise/sub filters, never been done. I have had the same plugs for around 25,000 still seems to run fine. How often do you guys change them? How hard is it to drain and change the final drive?

Thanks
 

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Junior Grue
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How hard is it to drain and change the final drive?

Thanks
It's not that hard. Just drain then refill through the large level cap. Of course refilling can be a problem but your wife's turkey baster is up to the challenge.:ROFL:
As you can only drain the top 2/3 without removing the drive it's best done after a long ride.
 

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It's very easy. A fill plug and a drain plug. Pull the fill plug first to be sure you can get it out. Not normally an issue unless a PO screwed it up. Much easier with the saddlebag off. Takes less than 8 ounces to fill. I have a jug with one of those hand pumps on it so it is very easy to fill it.
Plugs? The book says every 8k, but that's crazy. I go every two years with stock plugs (dpr7ea-9) and some go much longer. Since I take the tupperware off every year anyway I change them every other year, about 15-20k for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's very easy. A fill plug and a drain plug. Pull the fill plug first to be sure you can get it out. Not normally an issue unless a PO screwed it up. Much easier with the saddlebag off. Takes less than 8 ounces to fill. I have a jug with one of those hand pumps on it so it is very easy to fill it.
Plugs? The book says every 8k, but that's crazy. I go every two years with stock plugs (dpr7ea-9) and some go much longer. Since I take the tupperware off every year anyway I change them every other year, about 15-20k for me.
Thanks, I thought that was too soon for changing plugs also! I admire your courage to remove all Tupperware. I am trying to get over my fear of it. Have removed some small parts lately. Going to try and get to my filters next.
 

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Thanks, I thought that was too soon for changing plugs also! I admire your courage to remove all Tupperware. I am trying to get over my fear of it. Have removed some small parts lately. Going to try and get to my filters next.
When changing the diff fluid, bag removal is not at all necessary. Get a bottle pump (available at parts stores), match it up to the bottle of the fluid you are going to use. Those pumps come with hoses that can slide on the nozzle end. Fish the hose up to the hole and pump until fluid starts to come back out. Its full at that point.
 

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Not needed, but easier. If you are like some and grease the drive flange splines once a year anyway, that is the time to do it.
 

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...How hard is it to drain and change the final drive?...
> Very easy... simply remove the drain plug and fill cap to drain the oil, then re-fill with gear oil. Be careful to not overtighten the fill cap, as they are easy to break. It's also helpful to rotate the right side exhaust down and out of the way.
 
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