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I have read a lot about "No Neutral Light"

This might help someone understand how the neutral light circuit works.

GL1500 Neutral Light Circuit (1990 - 2000)

The reverse/start “5-amp” fuse provides input voltage “brown/white” wire to the reverse lever switch.

The reverse lever switch (when the reverse handle is down) provides input voltage “black/white” wire to the neutral light bulb.

This wire passes through 3 connectors:

1. 3-pin red connector behind the left fairing inner cover. (Near the reverse lever switch)

2. 14-pin black connector behind the left fairing lower cover. (Near the left radiator fan shroud)

3. 20-pin white connector behind the instrument panel.

The gear position “sensor” switch (when the transmission is in neutral) provides a ground “light green/red” wire through the reverse diode assembly to the neutral light bulb.

This wire passes through 5 connectors:

1. 20-pin white connector behind the instrument panel.

2. 14-pin white connector under the trunk.

3. 22-pin red connector under the seat.

4. 13-pin white connector at the rear of the right fairing pocket. (Behind the air compressor controls)

5. 6-pin black connector on the right radiator fan shroud.

Now you have a neutal light.................!!

Note 1: The neutral light is not part of the starting circuit. It is only a convience to let folks kmow the
transmission is in neutral. If the bulb was burned out, the bike would still start.

Note 2: The reverse lever switch also provides input voltage “black/white” wire through the reverse
diode assembly to activate “trigger” the reverse relay switch (which provides a ground to
activate “trigger” the starter relay A).

You could have a neutral light (which would indicate the reverse lever switch was good) and still have a starting issue if there was a faulty reverse
diode assembly or reverse relay switch (or other “ground” inputs to the reverse relay switch).

Are you confused yet.....??
 
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