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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Couple days ago while backing my bike out of the grage I heard a rumbling sound from the rear of bike. Rode to work all seemed fine. Tooks some twisty mountain rodes home for some fun. Couple miles from home on surfaces streets bike kind of shuttered like some thing was trying to lock up in the rear. Parked since then and went out to day to check it.

Spun the rear wheel and heard the grinding rumbling noise. Me thinks I may have some bad wheel bearings or some thing wrong in the pumkin. This is a 94 with only 13,000 miles yes you read it right. And yes I did steal it. What do y'all think. Can bearings go bad from sitting?

Been working on it for a few months now and riding it for the last month and put 2,000 on her.........JD
 

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Bearings do go bad from sitting. The balls or rollers make indentations in the races sitting in the same spot over time. One of the reasons I would rather buy a machine that has been used regularly instead of one that has sat for most of it's life.
 

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Yeah, if the moisture content is higher than the grease content.
Is there any side to side movement in the wheel?
Are you sure everything else is tight?
 

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Junior Grue
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Sounds like drive splines to me but what do I know.:raspberry:
 

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Put her up on the center stand, place her into top gear and now try to turn the wheel by hand. Also try wiggling the wheel laterally and vertically. These test will determine drive-shaft/U-joint/spline wear, and then the bearing wear.

Finally removing the wheel differential and drive shaft for a better inspection/replacement/repair may be needed.
 

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I have the same problem with my new-to-me '06 1800. It started making odd noises about 800 miles after I bought it. It turned out to be the final drive. Lucky for me I was able find one removed from a fellow who just triked his 2012 1800 with 90 miles on it. Should be back in operation with the GW this coming week. It's about time to give the SW a rest after ten days of steady use. I need to put a new CVT in it anyway.
 

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JD, If it were mine, I'd pull the well and final drive to have a good look at everything from the u-joint rearward. The splines at the rear of the driveshaft (that fit into the final drive's cup) would be most suspect to me and there's really no easy way to look at those without just pulling it apart.

The design of that 'cup' was originally supposed to circulate with final drive fluid; most of them don't work that way so require greasing. Ina bike that sat, that cup is a great place for a lot of rust and corrosion to happen. It can be off and in your hand in a few hours for a good look.
 

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Still Learning
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Well JD
If it's not the above forementioned, the brake caliper could be sticking. Have the brakes been pulled apart and clean the calipers, flush with fresh DOT4, since you got it? If not, gunk in the calipers will build up in the seal grooves if the fluid has not been flushed yearly since new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes have greased the splins changed the gear oil all was good. Reason for the gear oil change a couple times. The final drive oil was really black. Changed it and ran it for 500 miles and changed it again. Brakes are not dragging......JD
 

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Yep.
The correct answer gets an all expense paid two hour vacation in my basement/crawlspace. :ROFL::ROFL:
Oh boy, a free trip!
I'll guess "not much"
Do I win!
"all expense paid" that means gas there and home again for the wing right, and food both ways for me, a hotel a few places each way!

I can handle two hours in basement/crawlspace for that!
Kinda reminds me of that stupid TV shows something about greatest fears but this would be even better!
 

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Yes have greased the splins changed the gear oil all was good. Reason for the gear oil change a couple times. The final drive oil was really black. Changed it and ran it for 500 miles and changed it again. Brakes are not dragging......JD
Was the circlip still on the driveshaft? Did you reinstall it?
 

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Ken reminds you of a stupid TV show?
You gonna take that, Ken?!
NO not Ken, I meant the vacation in the crawlspace :ROFL:
Here we have, black widow, brown recluse, fleas, ticks, Tarantulas, copper head snakes and timber rattlers and I am sure I left out a few!
Crawlspace sounds just up my alley! :raspberry:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Did not see any loose C clips when I take it apart. This weekend will look at that. But think I will order new bearings for it front and rear. Where do you all order your bearings from ?............JD
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well just for chits and jiggles check the gear oil in the final drive and OOOOOOOH crap the oil was dark gray. That gear oil only had 300 miles on it. Soooooo me thinks something went BAD in there. Whats it cost to rebuilt one of them thing. The real pisser is that it only had 13,500 mile on it.. uuuuuuummmmmm not happy........JD
 

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Junior Grue
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If the pinion shaft and crown gear shaft have no play in the bearings and the backlash between the two gears is within specification the final drive is likely fine.

As to why the gear oil was black I have no idea but as each oil change is only of the top 2/3 it will take many/many changes to go from black to grey to the colour of the oil you're using.
 

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If it turns out there is some damage to the final drive it might be more cost effective to check out eBay. There are more final drives than Goldwings because so many people trike them. I just bought a final drive for my 1800 including the brake caliper and disk with 90 miles on it for $200. GL1500 rear ends are not as common as they once were but they still show up on eBay. It's a pretty safe buy since these things rarely fail.
 

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It aint rocket science
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Dark gray oil is not good on a rear. Something has destroyed itself and with the shuddering locking up description points to the final drive and should be easy to spot the trouble. With the fill cap off insert a tool to try and move the ring gear back and forth, pushing and pulling towards you. Should be no movement that way. The with your fingertip rock the gear up and down without rotating drive shaft. Should only have minimal play.

Unless you have access to bearing pullers, press, torque wrenches, dial indicator and are familiar with the removal and installation of the above and dealing with shims it is not a job for the faint of heart. More than likely there is some case damage there also if it is the final. (dark gray oil)

As Exavid wrote if the final does need replacing, source it from a bone yard.
 
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